wire gauge for solar

[IanC]

I am insulating and running wiring this weekend. I'm planning on getting the Renogy 200w kit in the near future but want to get the wiring done first, what thickness do you think I should get? Also what is the preferred way to run it into the roof without future leak problems ?
Thanks as always

 

[highdesertranger]

the kit comes with it's own wiring. I believe it's 10 gauge but it has extra thick insulation that makes it about as thick as 8 gauge. I am installing the 200 watt kit right now. btw the kit wire is better wire than you normally would buy. my recommendation is to use it. highdesertranger

 

[SternWake]

For passing the wire from solar panels, through roof, to solar controller, check out some ideas/options for doing so in this thread:

https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-90-degree-solar-wire-roof-pass-through

You do not need to go so elaborate, I certainly did not, using simple cord grips sticking straight from roof, but fancier options exist, if fancy/low profile  appeals to you.

When locating the solar controller, ideal...., is very close to the battery(s) over short thick cable, but not in the same compartment, over as thick of wire as you can fit into the wire receptacles on the solar controller.

 

[IanC]

Thanks, then I'll wait til I get the system. I'm insulating with 2 layers of 1/2 foam, cutting the channel for the wiring into the top layer, so I'll run a fish line before I replace the plywood. I ordered the single pass through in the thread link from Amazon - I'll see how that works.

 

[highdesertranger]

you could continue, just leave an access panel and a way to feed the wires behind the paneling. highdesertranger

 

[SternWake]

Not sure of the flexibility of the renogy provided cables, but the 10 awg mc3 cable I bought( precursor to MC4) only has 7 thick strands, and is not flexible at all. A fishtape could not pull it through a 12 inch lubed radius.

 

[IanC]

Not sure of the flexibility of the renogy provided cables, but the 10 awg mc3 cable I bought( precursor to MC4) only has 7 thick strands, and is not flexible at all.   A fishtape could not pull it through a 12 inch  lubed radius.

Wow, that's good to know, I was planning on putting a vinyl wall covering over the plywood once I had insulated. it would have sucked ifI would have had to tear that all apart to feed the wire through. It's crazy isn't it, no matter how thorough you try to be in the planning there is always something unforeseen.

 

[ldmccain]

Nice flexible wire.
#4 welding lead
And it's big enough to add more panels later without replacing.

Wandering Larry

 

[highdesertranger]

Renogy new wires have many wires I didn't count them but there is a lot more than 7. I am helping someone install the 200 watt kit on a trailer. the panels are mounted and the wires run through the roof. I am going back Saturday to finish. I will try to get some pics. highdesertranger

 

[IanC]

Nice flexible wire.  
#4 welding lead
And it's big enough to add more panels later without replacing.  

Wandering Larry

Great info, Larry, then that's what I'll  do.  Man, am I grateful for the advice I've gotten on the forum. I just got back from Home Depot - was looking for a low profile box for 110 plug sockets. The goof I asked acted like I had asked directions to the moon. "no we wouldn't have something like that". Of course I found it myself.

 

[TMG51]

I found Renogy cables to be pretty flexible when installing.

 

[Oopslala]

I just installed 600 watts of renogy panels and the wires they provided were quite flexible compared to the wires I bought on Amazon (both 8awg). Though, both could be threaded through most holes with a little effort, the renogy wire being the easiest.

 

[highdesertranger]

welding wire is for welding. it's not UV resistant, it's not oil and gas/solvent resistant. there is automotive and marine wire that mimics the many small wire strands of welding wire and is UV, oil and gas resistant. highdesertranger

 

[ldmccain]

welding wire is for welding. it's not UV resistant, it's not oil and gas/solvent resistant. there is automotive and marine wire that mimics the many small wire strands of welding wire and is UV, oil and gas resistant. highdesertranger

I didn't think about that.
All of my welding lead wiring is enclosed.
If I get oil or gas in there I have some other huge issue.

Thank you for bringing these issues up.

Wandering Larry

 

[IanC]

Tomorrow is the day I begin - the plywood is removed wiring paths are drawn on the walls, BUT - I'm sorry to beat the dead horse , but another question about wiring flexibility. On the charge controller the lead in and out are at the bottom of the unit. I was thinking just one hole below the unit to bring both the wires from the panels and the wires down to the batteries. Then  the wires from the panels will have to make a pretty sharp bend coming from above and then up to the controller - doesn't seem possible now that I think about it. I dont want to have to pull a big loop through and have it hanging there. I wish they had put the lead in on the  top of the unit.  How do people deal with that if they want the wiring concealed ?

 

[highdesertranger]

maybe I am not seeing this right but can't you just cut your wires down so they are not so long and you don't have a big loop. also did you follow the instruction for the clearances for the controller. highdesertranger

 

[GotSmart]

Tomorrow is the day I begin - the plywood is removed wiring paths are drawn on the walls, BUT - I'm sorry to beat the dead horse , but another question about wiring flexibility. On the charge controller the lead in and out are at the bottom of the unit. I was thinking just one hole below the unit to bring both the wires from the panels and the wires down to the batteries. Then  the wires from the panels will have to make a pretty sharp bend coming from above and then up to the controller - doesn't seem possible now that I think about it. I dont want to have to pull a big loop through and have it hanging there. I wish they had put the lead in on the  top of the unit.  How do people deal with that if they want the wiring concealed ?

This is the wiring set up I removed today.  The upper right corner of the picture is my cheap renogy controller.  I had 4 holes drilled.  The wire is about 10 guage, with a lot of strands. I am in the process of figureing out how it will go back together.  Possibly conduit.

 

[IanC]

maybe I  am not seeing this right but can't you just cut your wires down so they are not so long and you don't have a big loop. also did you follow the instruction for the clearances for the controller.  highdesertranger

I'm doing this build as I can afford it so don't have the system yet - Just trying to get the insulation, wiring, walls and ceiling done first. with all the concealed wires  coming out in the proper places. I'm thinking that I should probably splurge now and get just the wires from  Renology so I'm not  guessing.

My understanding is that the controller should be mounted where it is visable (outside the battery box) - correct ?

 

[IanC]

ok, ordered the wire to the panels and the tray cables - I'm on my way !

 

[IanC]

My understanding is that the controller should be mounted where it is visable (outside the battery box) - correct ?

Scratch that last part, I was thinking about the battery monitor