What to do FIRST: insulation, electrical, etc

[explainmyself]

Hi all,

Assuming I will get a Ford Transit, but haven't bought yet - could be Promaster or something in the end

I have watched a bunch of videos so far, but still need to watch a million more. What makes the most sense in terms of order? i.e., I know I want the following things:

Vent Fan
Insulation
Flooring
Some sort of very basic electrical battery (and probably a solar suitcase to go with it, so no need to install solar)
Bed
Shelving

Should the order be the vent fan first, then electrical wiring, then insulation/paneling? 

I guess the wiring wouldn't maybe matter, but maybe you'd want to hide it behind some paneling for aesthetics... but not sure on the vent fan.

I'd also like to put some LED lights in the ceiling paneling, but not sure if that's too ambitious for now.

Thanks for any advice!

 

[B and C]

You have the order correct in my book. You talk about adding ceiling lights later, get the wiring in first. You don't want surface (on the face of the paneling) wiring as it is too easily damaged. Actually, anywhere you might want something electrical (charging port?), run the wire before covering the wall.

 

[ckelly78z]

You will want to cut out the roof for the vent fan first (no need to get cuttings/shaving on any finished surfaces). You will need to wire up the fan, and lights next. Then you need to insulate around everything followed by carefully cutting/attaching a paneling finish on the walls, and ceiling.

Lots of decisions about where to mount infrastructure/wiring/plumbing before closing up the walls. After this point, you can lay down a complete floor, and mount your bed, cabinets on top of the new floor. Dont forget battery location, and possible solar wiring access from the roof.

 

[highest_vision]

Why not have the wiring exposed, but protected with conduit? Easier to work with later that way. I have had to do electrical work on buses and and RV, and trying to remove all kinds of panelling to see why something stopped working isn't the most exciting thing to do. It'll cost you more, too if you have to pay someone to do it. 

I'm sure you could find a way to hide the conduit, or go for the submarine look.

 

[crofter]

Planning and layout is first, then installing anchor points for the materials to be installed. My build is anchored to the floor and load D rings are all still operational in the completed build. Before installing the flooring, I added cleats to it so I could build up from the floor. I left my wiring channels accessible so that I can play with the wiring anytime I want, after all there is always a new gadget in the world of electricity. Whatever you tackle first, don't forget to plan.   -crofter

 

[maki2]

You can get on the surface wiring covers at Home Depot. It looks nice and tidy, it won't get snagged.

 

[explainmyself]

Planning and layout is first, then installing anchor points for the materials to be installed. My build is anchored to the floor and load D rings are all still operational in the completed build. Before installing the flooring, I added cleats to it so I could build up from the floor. I left my wiring channels accessible so that I can play with the wiring anytime I want, after all there is always a new gadget in the world of electricity. Whatever you tackle first, don't forget to plan.   -crofter

Heavy duty anchoring points, thank you for reminding me that's something I'd want to do! Or for instance, I'd like to hang super heavy duty hooks inside, possibly for things like hanging in hammocks - so good to know you'd want to get those into the frame before laying down the other stuff on top

 

[crofter]

Heavy duty anchoring points, thank you for reminding me that's something I'd want to do! Or for instance, I'd like to hang super heavy duty hooks inside, possibly for things like hanging in hammocks - so good to know you'd want to get those into the frame before laying down the other stuff on top

A cargo van comes with D rings for securing the cargo. If you leave them intact, you can just use the D rings. I threaded mine for longer bolts, pretty easy to do.   -crofter

 

[eDJ_]

When I read about running wire in a Van thru conduit,  I wonder if "Panduit" has been mentioned before.   It is a plastic square tube with a lid that snaps on.  Some types have slots where wiring can be brought thru those slots and run to fans, lights, or any other accessories.  Also if there is need to open up the Panduit to splice onto a wire or add another wire from
a power origin point it will be easy to pop off the lid and access the wiring.  Once the lid is restored the wiring is safely contained and not unpleasant to look at.  

[img=300x300]https://www.newark.com/productimages/standard/en_US/4118299.jpg[/img] 

There is all different forms of this wiring containment system. Various colors & sizes.  Just imagine copper tubing and all the 
various fittings that can be used with it.   But in this you could run 12 vdc, 110 ac, Cat5e internet etc. 
Also,  in the event a wire is hot....you may be able to smell it overheating early and attend to the problem before there is real trouble.

Any qualified electrician could advise you on designing with this system.

 

[B and C]

Panduit is used extensively in the IT industry. I don't think I have ever seen an electrician use the stuff.

 

[maki2]

When I read about running wire in a Van thru conduit,  I wonder if "Panduit" has been mentioned before.   It is a plastic square tube with a lid that snaps on.  Some types have slots where wiring can be brought thru those slots and run to fans, lights, or any other accessories.  Also if there is need to open up the Panduit to splice onto a wire or add another wire from
a power origin point it will be easy to pop off the lid and access the wiring.  Once the lid is restored the wiring is safely contained and not unpleasant to look at.  


There is all different forms of this wiring containment system. Various colors & sizes.  Just imagine copper tubing and all the 
various fittings that can be used with it.   But in this you could run 12 vdc, 110 ac, Cat5e internet etc. 
Also,  in the event a wire is hot....you may be able to smell it overheating early and attend to the problem before there is real trouble.

Any qualified electrician could advise you on designing with this system.

It has a generic name...open slot electrical raceway.  There are quite a few brands of it. Commerical electrical supply stores often have it in stock. But it is also easy to find on Amazon and Ebay.

I am using it for some of the wiring runs in my travel trailer renovation. You just have to be sure not to have wiring splices happening inside with with a splice from a 1`0 volt line being close to a 12V splice. That could lead to some major issues and fires.  You can run both 110v and 12v wires in the same channel, it is just the splices that have a potential safety issue.

I share space with a  product designer who has created a lot of automated machine products and that is a normal part of creating and managing the wiring for it. So I had access to free lengths of this raceway product and of course free plus easy to use means I took advantage of his offer.  I am using it against the wall inside of my cabinet runs. That protects the wires but makes it easy to break them out to go to the various plug type of outlets, lighting locations, etc. I do suggest putting ID labels on those loose laid wires every few feet or so for quick and easy identification.

 

[Inti]

Bob Wells in one of his videos advices just to leave paracord where wires can be used in the future.