Since I now have impressive brakes, I wanted those distracted cell phone junkies behind me to know I am braking.
My Van combines the brake light and turn signals, basically when braking, with a turn signal on, there is only one brake light.
Last week I added a third LED brake light up on my fiberglass roof. Since I have combination brake/signal lights, I cannot tap into any nearby wiring as the 3rd brake light will also illuminate with one turn signal or another. Not safe or legal.
Instead I had to run a new wire to my brake switch. Not fun.
The previous owner had a trailer brake, and had already tapped the wire I need to tap now. Unfortunately he used those wire taps which can break the wire stranding. I decided to just remove the brake switch to remove the wire tap. And while I had it out, I opened up the brake switch and cleaned all the contacts.
Look at all the grey debris on the black plastic casing. This is the contact deteriorating from tens of thousands pushing the brakes over the years.
I wound up covering the crimp connections with solder. I polished all the contacts inside, but the main contact was still all pitted. It should still perform better with less voltage drop.
My LED 3rd brake light only draws 0.08a. I just used some wire which measured out a 0.023" which falls somewhere between 22 and 23 gauge. I'll pull ground from nearer the light so just the one wire from brake light switch to 3rd light. Voltage drop will not be significant
I spliced the wire right where the wire tap had broken some stranding. I covered it with 'Amazing goop' instead of Liquid electrical tape. It remains clear and flexible, but it takes a long time to dry:
So i am not done yet. Still have to reinstall the switch and feed the wire back to the light.
Here is the 3rd brake light I bought. Not hideously bright, but it is unmistakable even in strong sunlight:
http://www.amazon.com/Grand-General...bs_auto_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1038JCDNC6Y0QNJQBCH6
I drilled and tapped the fiberglass to accept 1/4x20 Stainless steel screws. I used 'Amazing goop' to adhere and seal it. The Machine screws are hideously overkill. The Blue painters tape is just to keep it clean. Nothing uglier than caulk or adhesive 'smoothed with a finger', as it just smears everywhere.
The dual Filament bulbs in my regular brake lights, 1157s are rated at 402 lumens on the Signal filament and 40 lumens on the running light filament
I had been using 3496 bulbs which have the same base, and wattage, but produce 540 lumens and 40 lumens
2357 Bulbs are 502/40
A friend with a light meter, and the same van as mine, and a light meter, had a desire to use LED bulbs in place of incandescent. I was skeptical that the LED bulbs would fill out the reflector properly, but he found one that impressed him. More light from all angles, according to his Light meter, and enough difference between signal and braking filament.( MOst LED 1157s fail here)
I decided to order them, and found them as bright as the 3496 bulbs, and a deeper red color. LEDs instantly come to full brightness, where incandescent takes 200 milliseconds to fire up. This can translate into much quicker braking response my the person following.
These only work properly because the reflector on my Van is a simple parabolic reflector, and the lens has no issues distributing the light properly.
Newer vehicles have much more complex reflectors that basically reflect an image of the filament itself from 100 different mini reflectors. LEDs cannot and will not work in such housings and should not be installed in them.
Anyway, those of you with pre '94 Dodges, these 1157 LEDs are an upgrade over 1157, 2357, or 3496 incandescent bulbs.
In addition to the instant on factor, the LEDs draw a fraction of the amperage. The 3496's draw 2.2 amps at 14.5v, the LEDs just 0.36a.
When my battery is depleted, and my alternator is struggling at hot idle speed with the brake lights on. The LEDs allow nearly 4 more amps to flow into the depleted battery.
I tried some Amber 1157s in my front lights, but they were way too bright with not enough difference between signal and running intensities, and would not work properly with my Electronic flasher either.
Here are the Red 1157 LEDs I am using. These will not work properly in every vehicle, only those with basic parabolic reflectors and lens designs. Mid 90's or earlier.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231350549721?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
And if interested in Why retrofitting LED bulbs into most vehicles is a horrible idea:
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2015/03/piston-slap-traversing-world-led-retrofit-bulbs/
