What did You, do to your Freedom Machine today?

[SternWake]

Today put the second coat of paint on the roofline above windshield, and I swapped out my low mileage but 6.5 year old Moog problem solver Strut rod bushings.

I suspected they were shot, you can't tell from external appearance when installed.

I was right. I used Polyurethane from energy suspension to replace. They were under 6$ on Amazon for the red, but wanted 16$ for the black..

 

[pseudo_mccoy]

I did this a couple days ago. Unwanted sunlight/heat used to come through my roof vent.



I'm sure something like this has been done before. But I'm concerned the poster board won't hold up to moisture. Rain occasionally splashes in. Anyone have a better idea?

 

[pseudo_mccoy]

Another minor interior modification...
Started experimenting with making cargo nets out of cheap paracord.

A few tries later I ended up with a little basket for my shower/sprayer.

I plan to hang it up in an empty corner.

 

[akrvbob]

Pseudo McCoy, that looks really great!

I'm all the time looking for cargo nets to hang in corners and they are very hard to find. I think you could turn that into a small business. You won't get rich, but it could give you some gas money. I'd make up some samples of different sizes and shapes of cargo nets and take custom orders.

You'd be welcome to advertise them here, I think you could really get some orders!!

Also, if you can get to the RTR you can sell them and I think you could sell a bunch. There are some vendor tents that might want some big orders.

Something to think about!
Bob

 

[pseudo_mccoy]

Wow I'd better get busy! That's very kind of you to say. I was already beginning to think about improving the design and maybe selling a few around town. If get to RTR I'll certainly make a bunch for ya'll as a way of saying thanks for all the great info.

For anyone who's interested in trying it for themselves, there's instructions on Youtube. But I'm thinking about doing my own video because I think the ones already out there could be clearer.

I'd like to make a hammock eventually. I'll post new designs as they come.

 

[gypsycowboy]

I've been busy getting the van ready for our winter travel. I put in a second battery to run the fantastic fan and a couple of 12 volt outlets for other electronic gear. Got some running boards installed to make it easier to get in and out of the van. Larger screw eyes to replace the previous wimpy ones that hold the curtains. New tires and some heavy duty shocks. My last trip to Mexico was not kind to my shocks or tires. Going prepared this year. New brake pads and rotors. Got a foam topper for the bed. Very comfy. Mosquito netting for the front windows so we can leave them rolled down at night and a mosquito net for the rear cargo door for even more ventilation at night. Installed a mosquito net for the bed as well. We got eaten alive by bugs last winter in the Florida Keys. Not this year!

 

[rinella]

You can buy cargo netting by the yard here:

http://www.seattlefabrics.com/mesh.html

scroll about two thirds down the page

 

[Vonbrown]

I have reached the point now where all that was questionable regarding the safe operation of my Van has come to an end. This past week, I have, diagnosed various major components, chased down parts, and finally, made the repairs. I have completed the "four wheel brake job". A complete overhaul of the front disc brakes included a new set of wheel bearings, rotors, calipers and pads. The rear drums were replaced as well as all the hardware, wheel cylinders and shoes. To complete the job, the brake fluid was flushed and replaced.

The fuel system needed attention, so the TBI was rebuilt and new injectors installed. The fuel filter was replaced. To finish my repairs, I now have new tires all the way around.
I purchased some of those Sterlite containers and organized my belongings inside as well as getting the laundry done.

Busy week, I'm happy, now for a hot shower, a cold beer and dinner.

 

[VanLifeCrisis]

I took out a dead speaker and wired up some power into the 'new' van. Haven't moved solar over but can plug at work. nice being able to charge devices..the 12v lighter plug up front doesn't work :/

 

[SternWake]

Been pretty active since my return to the land of ' I am too cool to even acknowledge you'

Today, I got 2 junkyard ECM connectors to replace the one which has been causing issues for 11+ years now, and likely compromised the contacts on the engine control computer circuit board. I also got an intermittent wiper control relay, and a new captains chair to replace the beat up one under me right now, and a new pop out window, for the hardware, and to have as a back up. I couldn't get the roll pin out in the junkyard with the tools I had, to take the hardware only, so I took the whole window.

I am awaiting new wiper linkage bushings as mine turned into the consistency and strength of nacho chips. I painted under the wiper cowl black, the linkages black( after osphoing them) and the wiper arms black. I also got new windshield washer hose that runs internal to these wiper arms. I treated some minor rust on the wiper cowl and repainted it on both sides.

E bay was selling the intermittant wiper control relay for 40$. I got everything today for 45$. I dont use my wipers much but it will be nice to have that feature again. The part numbers were a bit different but it was plug and play and works fine.

I hope to have the new connector spliced in soon, a new ECM next week, and modify my new captains chair to fit on my old swivel base as it is a comfy chair.

 

[Patrick46]

sanding, sanding, sanding.

hope to be finally painted by next weekend. Hmmmmmm....we'll see.

 

[psytechguy]

I finally installed the Morningstar inverter I've had sitting on the shelf for the past year.

The 12v solar system in the camper has been working great, and I haven't actually needed 120v for anything while boondocking, but you never know!

 

[KayakGirl]

I finished sewing custom valances for Freedom's little skylight windows. Hoping to get them installed this weekend in between my "Handy Mam" and pet sitting jobs. Will post pictures on my KiyakGirl Got Her Van Thread when I do.

 

[SternWake]

For perhaps the 5th time in 13 years, I washed my Van with a bucket and a sponge, as opposed to just using the foaming brush and pressure washer at a coin operated car wash.

Amazing how much cleaner it gets.

I busted out the tape, denatured alcohol and some caulk to reseal my windows and some parts of my roofline. Touch up painted my degreased front rims and rotor hubs for some more appliance epoxy.

I want to get it good and sealed and waxed before the 'rainy' season sets in.

 

[Kimbopolo]

Took the Good Deal Bus to a nearby rv park in order to top off the batteries. The nice owners allowed me to plug in overnight for $5. Kind of a pain, but I don't have solar (or an outside outlet) and the unseasonably cold weather has really affected the 2 coach batteries. Now she's all juiced up!

 

[Vonbrown]

I have reached the point now where all that was questionable regarding the safe operation of my Van has come to an end. This past week, I have, diagnosed various major components, chased down parts, and finally, made the repairs. I have completed the "four wheel brake job". A complete overhaul of the front disc brakes included a new set of wheel bearings, rotors, calipers and pads. The rear drums were replaced as well as all the hardware, wheel cylinders and shoes. To complete the job, the brake fluid was flushed and replaced.

The fuel system needed attention, so the TBI was rebuilt and new injectors installed. The fuel filter was replaced. To finish my repairs, I now have new tires all the way around.
I purchased some of those Sterlite containers and organized my belongings inside as well as getting the laundry done.

Busy week, I'm happy, now for a hot shower, a cold beer and dinner.

This week has got me busy replacing the cylinder heads as both were cracked since the day I bought it. (2 years ago I think) The thing is, it did not effect the engine performance that much. I did have to add a tall glass of coolant once a week which is why I waited so long to make the repairs. It also afforded me the extra time to "check things out" (brake system, steering system, ect.) and make those repairs.

Here are pics of the progress being made.

 

[SternWake]

I replaced my Brake calipers with some Napa premium and installed Hawk HPS pads. The ways the calipers slide on were no longer flat or true, and I filed and polished them, so that they would slide easily without binding. I fixed a self adjuster in the rear drum adjusted the shoes manually, and lubed the friction points.

I performed a Bed in procedure and when the brakes cooled, a Semi panic stop threw me against my seat belt. My brakes have never worked better. Have Complete confidence in their ability now. It only took 12 years.

 

[SternWake]

Since I now have impressive brakes, I wanted those distracted cell phone junkies behind me to know I am braking.

My Van combines the brake light and turn signals, basically when braking, with a turn signal on, there is only one brake light.

Last week I added a third LED brake light up on my fiberglass roof.  Since I have combination brake/signal lights, I cannot tap into any nearby wiring as the 3rd brake light will also illuminate with one turn signal or another. Not safe or legal.

Instead I had to run a new wire to my brake switch. Not fun.

The previous owner had a trailer brake, and had already tapped the wire I need to tap now.  Unfortunately he used those wire taps which can break the wire stranding.  I decided to just remove the brake switch to remove the wire tap.  And while I had it out, I opened up the brake switch and cleaned all the contacts.

Look at all the grey debris on the black plastic casing.  This is the contact deteriorating from tens of thousands pushing the brakes over the years.

I wound up covering the crimp connections with solder.  I polished all the contacts inside, but the main contact was still all pitted.  It should still perform better with less voltage drop.

My LED 3rd brake light only draws 0.08a.  I just used some wire which measured out a 0.023" which falls somewhere between 22 and 23 gauge.  I'll pull ground from nearer the light so just the one wire from brake light switch to 3rd light.  Voltage drop will not be significant

I spliced the wire right where the wire tap had broken some stranding.  I covered it with 'Amazing goop' instead of Liquid electrical tape.  It remains clear and flexible, but it takes a long time to dry:

So i am not done yet.  Still have to reinstall the switch and feed the wire back to the light.

Here is the 3rd brake light I bought.  Not hideously bright, but it is unmistakable even in strong sunlight:
http://www.amazon.com/Grand-General...bs_auto_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1038JCDNC6Y0QNJQBCH6

I drilled and tapped the fiberglass to accept 1/4x20  Stainless steel screws.  I used 'Amazing goop' to adhere and seal it.  The Machine screws are hideously overkill.  The Blue painters tape is just to keep it clean.  Nothing uglier than caulk or adhesive 'smoothed with a finger', as it just smears everywhere.

The dual Filament bulbs in my regular brake lights, 1157s are rated at 402 lumens on the Signal filament and 40 lumens on the running light filament
I had been using 3496 bulbs which have the same base, and wattage, but produce 540 lumens and 40 lumens
2357 Bulbs are 502/40

A friend with a light meter, and the same van as mine, and a light meter, had a desire to use LED bulbs in place of incandescent.  I was skeptical that the LED bulbs would  fill out the reflector properly, but he found one that impressed him.  More light from all angles, according to his Light meter, and enough difference between signal and braking filament.( MOst LED 1157s fail here)

I decided to order them, and found them as bright as the 3496 bulbs, and a deeper red color.  LEDs instantly come to full brightness, where incandescent takes 200 milliseconds to fire up.  This can translate into much quicker braking response my the person following.

These only work properly because the reflector on my Van is a simple parabolic reflector, and the lens has no issues distributing the light properly.

Newer vehicles have much more complex reflectors that basically reflect an image of the filament itself from 100 different mini reflectors.  LEDs cannot and will not work in such housings and should not be installed in them.

Anyway, those of you with pre '94 Dodges, these 1157 LEDs are an upgrade over 1157, 2357, or 3496 incandescent bulbs.

In addition to the instant on factor, the LEDs draw a fraction of the amperage.  The 3496's draw 2.2 amps at 14.5v, the LEDs just 0.36a.

When my battery is depleted, and my alternator is struggling at hot idle speed with the brake lights on.  The LEDs allow nearly 4 more amps to flow into the depleted battery.

I tried some Amber 1157s in my front lights, but they were way too bright with not enough difference between signal and running intensities, and would not work properly with my Electronic flasher either.

Here are the Red 1157 LEDs I am using.  These will not work properly in every vehicle, only those with basic parabolic reflectors and lens designs.  Mid 90's or earlier.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231350549721?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

And if interested in Why retrofitting LED bulbs into most vehicles is a horrible idea:

http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2015/03/piston-slap-traversing-world-led-retrofit-bulbs/

 

[karl]

Sternwake- Having followed your threads since before the new forum, I appreciate your detailed posts. I have known that vehicle wiring was not one of my strengths, but had no idea how little I actually knew until your posts encouraged me to research and improve my methods when altering or repairing my vehicles. Thanks !!!

My recent maintenance is much more mundane- Thirsty was running a bit hot when towing, so I have flushed the cooling system, checked the engine timing and changed the thermostat, it has helped, and I am considering a high volume radiator ($$4 core$$), and possibly a high volume water pump, though I am cautious about moving coolant too fast to adequately remove heat. . There is already an electric fan in addition to the clutched fan(which appears to be operating correctly)
Step vans have trouble getting the hot air out of the engine compartment, and having an oil cooler, and two trannie coolers in front of the radiator don't help airflow. I have had a few times when the engine compartment got hot enough to boil the gas in the steel fuel line to the carb and starve the engine. I'm considering adding another electric fan, wiring both through a thermostat to move air through the hot compartment even when the vehicle is idling or not running. That could help with keeping my right foot from boiling as well- the doghouse gets hot by the accelerator with the exhaust manifold just inches from it.

 

[SternWake]

Thanks Karl.

Getting that heat out of the engine compartment sounds wise.

There are thermally controlled snap switches on can use to activate a relay that powers a fan.

http://www.amazon.com/White-Rodgers...F8&qid=1431902497&sr=8-1&keywords=Snap+switch

  I've often thought of doing this.  Chrysler in their ultimate wisdom decided to mount the engine computer in the the highest part of the engine compartment, where it bakes on every shut down.

I do not have an issue with too small a radiator.  I do have issues with the current radiator offerings, their quality.

The radiators of yesteryear were of copper brass construction, and the tubes could only be 5/8" wide, So they would use multiple rows.  Todays radiators are almost all Aluminum.  Since aluminum is stronger they can use wider tubes, upto 1 1/8 wide.  More coolant can fill these wider tubes, and there is more surface area between fin and tube, which promotes more heat transfer.

Even considering that copper and brass are better thermal conductors, the Aluminum radiators with their wider tubes can actually cool better due to the enhanced surface area between tube and cooling fins, and the more volume of coolant in the tubes, and also presenting less air resistance due to less tubes in rows.

There are really a thousand variables and it is hard to say which will cool better, generally.  The high volume water pump pumping water too fast has vociferous supporters and detractors on both sides.

All I can say is I bought a cheap all aluminum Silla radiator that has a single row, and it started leaking in 9 months where the tubes meet the bottom tank.  It is almost 5 years old now.  One bars leak coolant tab, the ground up ginger root type,  stopped the radiator leak entirely.
 recommended dosage is 6 tabs in four gallons capacity.  No issues with heater core clogging either, but this is certainly a consideration.

I remember one of the selling points of a free flowing exhaust is that it promoted cooler underhood temperatures.  perhaps your temp issues are partially caused by a restrictive exhaust.

When i had a Flowmaster 50 series and a Magnaflow catcon installed, the installer found the stock Y pipe was extremely restrictive.  I've no data to prove any increases in MPG or power, or decreased underhood heat, but the claims of such certainly gave me the warm and fuzzies.  I initially loved the V8 burble with a free flowing exhaust.  That wore off quickly and i now wish it were quieter, but it has been problem free for nearly 10 years now.

Here is a pic showing where the Y pipe came together and reduced the  exhaust diameter considerably.  A good portion of the occluding metal was knocked off before this photo was taken:

I meant to include this pic in my last post: