Wax Fuel Heater

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Unsettled

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I used to do something like this for tent heating and I'm trying to figure out how to make it work (safely) for mini-cam per van.

Soy wax is quite clean burning and can be purchased in bulk granules for $1.15 USD per pound.  That makes it more economical than propane or really anything else.  It also burns dry and can be compared to running a kerosene lantern.   The best feature it is that it's a solid, dense, non-volatile fuel that can be stored anywhere.

Of course you want to have some ventilation.  Do NOT use parrafin wax as it will leave soot in your nose and everywhere.


You can get 500+ watts of heat that will run all night with a steel pot, cookie tin or other container.  Here's how.

A normal candle wick give you something like 80 watts, but you can get more by using thicker wicks, like wooden wicks, but anything will work, even strips of cardboard.  For this you use more than one wick, but the using fewer thicker ones makes lighting the heater up easier.

And it's about that simple.  Fill the steel pot partway up with wax, jam your wicks down into it and light them.

I've kept a tent nice and toasty and dry this way, but for a camper van I'm thinking I need added safety, like a closed lid pot with small holes in the upper portion of the pot and in the lid.  This will prevent accidental contact with the flame but still allow airflow.

I've seen these "flower pot" candle heaters online but that's silly.  Even if you heat up the flower pot, you're still only getting 80 watts from a single wick.  But if you stuff five or six thick wicks into that pot and light them, you'll get 500+ watts easy.  I've only done this with a smaller pot, but I'd imagine if you did with a big kettle cooker or something you could get 1000 wats or better out of it

The key, of course, would be making it safe to use in the enclosed space I have.  But I guess it'd be no different than making space to run a propane stovetop or or woodstove or kerosene heater for heat.  Thoughts?
 
There are small vented wood and propane stoves that are very efficient. Using the wood stove or modifying the propane stove would allow you to use more than one fuel safely, if it works great, if it doesn’t you still have something that works.
 
If you want to experiment wwith it t hen justgo ahead annd do it. It sounds like you sre thinkikng through fire safety precautions and oxygen issues.  But do a little background research for making a report.

Note down some basic facts related to amy heating repoft
Room space size in cubic feet p,us insulationiinformation
Outdoor ambient temperature
Indoor temperature st the begining and end of the heating period
Graph of tempetature change inside the space as measured at regular specific intsrvals for each days experiments
Fuel consumption, as you buy the fuel by weigj for this particular fuel so use a weight scale to calculate consumption.
Note your wick size and measure wick consumption as part of the cost factor per hour  of bufn time.

You will be using those temperature change graphs to very roughly calculate the BTU of your fuel type. That gives you a baseline to compare the cost of the furl against other fuel choices. Roughly bevcause you do not have a true controlled environment for a return of accurate data.

When you are done please report back with your results.
 
Unsettled said:
 . . . Soy wax is quite clean burning and can be purchased in bulk granules for $1.15 USD per pound.  That makes it more economical than propane or really anything else.  It also burns dry . . .

Current price of propane in Minnesota today = $1.47/gallon = 34.8¢/lb.

Specific heat of hydrogenated soybean oil is 80% of propane.
 - soy candle = 0.47 BTU/(lb ºF)
 - propane = 0.58 BTU/(lb ºF)

make sure your soy wax is not diluted with contaminants (paraffin being the most common)
a yellow flame = incomplete burning = free carbon = soot
all burning hydrocarbons produce water vapor.
 
Heating is not measured by watts. Where did you get your figures? And I second what HDR has said above. I don't think any wax can burn clean.
 
1 watt is about 3.4 btu per hour.  They are different units but both measure the speed of flow of energy.  It is like meters and yards both measure length.
 
I think I mentioned this months ago on another post so forgive me if you know it. I made a sterno heater with a “heat battery”.I took the little folding sterno stove with a can of stereo. On top of that I put my 8 quart Dutch oven, of course that’s cast-iron. I filled that with marble chips that you buy at the garden centers. Then while I was sitting up in the evening I would burn this thing heating the oven and stones and then put the sterno out before I went to sleep. I found that the “battery” kept it nice and warm for several hours and certainly took the chill off for the rest of the night. I was then in a safari van it was insulated very well and smaller than my full-time rig is now. My full-size Dodge rig now has very little insulation except that I put an inch and a half foam wrapped in fabric in the big windows and left what the original conversion builders had in place. When I was in the Safari, That was back in my younger days when camping in the winter was fun. Now that I’m older Florida is more fun than being cold. God bless the nomads and keep them all warm or cool whatever they need.
 
Point taken, I was in error.  Soy wax is not cheaper per pound than propane or kerosene.  But I still beats them out in the fact that it's solid so that you can store more fuel.  This saves trips to refill and thus is a savings in hassle and vehicle fuel.  Propane cannisters are bulky and leaky and need to be refilled often. Propane also produces condensation not dry heat.  Liquid fuels are messy and volatile and require containers  You could carry 100+ lbs of wax "fuel," store it anywhere, and get dry heat.
 
Trebor English said:
1 watt is about 3.4 btu per hour.  They are different units but both measure the speed of flow of energy.  It is like meters and yards both measure length.

It's easier for me to think of it in watts to compare it to an electric heater.  Low-end electric heaters are 800 watts and enough for a small space like a mini-camper van.   That much is achievable with a wax fueled heater. (super-candle heater?)  I don't like to call them "wax heaters" because that's the term used for another device that melts wax.
 
The other big advantage is elegance. This is essentially just a candle, a very big one with many wicks. Thus no big initial purchase/installation cost, hassle, or maintenance worries. It's noiseless and serves as night light.
 
nature lover said:
...I found that the “battery” kept it nice and warm for several hours and certainly took the chill off for the rest of the night....

This is similar to what my parents' pre-central-heating generation did. They put irons and stones on the stove to heat up, then wrapped them in newspaper and took them to bed with them.
 
Spaceman Spiff said:
Current price of propane in Minnesota today = $1.47/gallon = 34.8¢/lb.

Specific heat of hydrogenated soybean oil is 80% of propane.
 - soy candle = 0.47 BTU/(lb ºF)
 - propane = 0.58 BTU/(lb ºF)

make sure your soy wax is not diluted with contaminants (paraffin being the most common)
a yellow flame = incomplete burning = free carbon = soot
all burning hydrocarbons produce water vapor.

Another option would be to vent this thing, but my experience was that the tent was considerably dryer using wax than with propane with only tent windows slightly opened.  Maybe candles reduced humidity in my tent because the warmth forced air and moisture out through the passive vents even though burning the wax was producing some humidity. Later I went with a vented propane stove which got rid of moisture even better.   I just don't feel like carrying around propane in a minivan camper and having to refill it all the time when I could just load up on wax and be set for a good long while.

It actually wouldn't be too hard to vent using sheet metal to form a conical lid for the pot and exhausting it through the window vent with a narrow stovepipe (or straight to small roof vent.) Or just leaving it near a small passive vent would probably work.
 
maki2 said:
If you want to experiment wwith it t hen justgo ahead annd do it. It sounds like you sre thinkikng through fire safety precautions and oxygen issues.  But do a little background research for making a report.

Note down some basic facts related to amy heating repoft
Room space size in cubic feet p,us insulationiinformation
Outdoor ambient temperature
Indoor temperature st the begining and end of the heating period
Graph of tempetature change inside the space as measured at regular specific intsrvals for each days experiments
Fuel consumption, as you buy the fuel by weigj for this particular fuel so use a weight scale to calculate consumption.
Note your wick size and measure wick consumption as part of the cost factor per hour  of bufn time.

You will be using those temperature change graphs to very roughly calculate the BTU of your fuel type. That gives you a baseline to compare the cost of the furl against other fuel choices. Roughly bevcause you do not have a true controlled environment for a return of accurate data.

When you are done please report back with your results.

OMG I'm just trying to heat my van -and defs not doing all that tedious homework you just bid me to.  I'm more of an big picture guy who lets the poindexters analyze everything in his wake.  So, you know, get to it :p
 
This might be worth a try:



(Crisco candle heater...and MUCH cheaper than soy wax)

Please report back on it if you should try it.
 
Unsettled said:
I used to do something like this for tent heating and I'm trying to figure out how to make it work (safely) for mini-cam per van.

Soy wax is quite clean burning and can be purchased in bulk granules for $1.15 USD per pound.  That makes it more economical than propane or really anything else.  It also burns dry and can be compared to running a kerosene lantern.   The best feature it is that it's a solid, dense, non-volatile fuel that can be stored anywhere.

Of course you want to have some ventilation.  Do NOT use parrafin wax as it will leave soot in your nose and everywhere.


You can get 500+ watts of heat that will run all night with a steel pot, cookie tin or other container.  Here's how.

A normal candle wick give you something like 80 watts, but you can get more by using thicker wicks, like wooden wicks, but anything will work, even strips of cardboard.  For this you use more than one wick, but the using fewer thicker ones makes lighting the heater up easier.

And it's about that simple.  Fill the steel pot partway up with wax, jam your wicks down into it and light them.

I've kept a tent nice and toasty and dry this way, but for a camper van I'm thinking I need added safety, like a closed lid pot with small holes in the upper portion of the pot and in the lid.  This will prevent accidental contact with the flame but still allow airflow.

I've seen these "flower pot" candle heaters online but that's silly.  Even if you heat up the flower pot, you're still only getting 80 watts from a single wick.  But if you stuff five or six thick wicks into that pot and light them, you'll get 500+ watts easy.  I've only done this with a smaller pot, but I'd imagine if you did with a big kettle cooker or something you could get 1000 wats or better out of it

The key, of course, would be making it safe to use in the enclosed space I have.  But I guess it'd be no different than making space to run a propane stovetop or or woodstove or kerosene heater for heat.  Thoughts?

I'll pass on that thank you.  I'm waiting for micro cold fusion to be perfected so that all my energy needs can be met from one simple process.

Not!
 
Why don't you try experimenting with this in your apartment/house bathroom (same square footage as a minivan) over night with the door slightly ajar for ventilation. See if you like the smell, how much warmer it gets, and if a carbon monoxide detector in the same room goes off over night while it's burning.
 
Unsettled said:
Point taken, I was in error.  Soy wax is not cheaper per pound than propane or kerosene.  But I still beats them out in the fact that it's solid so that you can store more fuel.  This saves trips to refill and thus is a savings in hassle and vehicle fuel.  Propane cannisters are bulky and leaky and need to be refilled often. Propane also produces condensation not dry heat.  Liquid fuels are messy and volatile and require containers  You could carry 100+ lbs of wax "fuel," store it anywhere, and get dry heat.

My 5 gallon propane cylinder (never leaked) lasts 3 to 4 weeks in the winter in Quartzsite.   That's heat for the vented Propex heater (thermostatically controlled dry heat), the 6 gallon water heater, and the 2 burner stove.  Does soy wax do all that?

Propane is readily available virtually anywhere in the world.  I haven't seen any Blue Rhino soy granules in front of any convenience stores or home depot stores.

If soy wax was a viable fuel, it would be in general use today.  It's not for multiple reasons.
 
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