Water proofing, water damage

[VanKitten]

I have spent the last few evenings watching every video of gutting and rebuilding due to water damage.

One fellow even tore off the outer skin and replace the fiberglass altogether.

Then, I see framing etc.   what I don't see is how the skin is then reattached to the new framing inside.   Are the 2" studs glued to the skin?  What about all the space between studs?

I expect to be taking out a lot of water damage.  On just one area, the press board was completely rotten...once removed I am left with just the Fiberglass skin.    

Will I need to be glueing thin Luan to the entire skin then glue that assembly to the studs?  

I have a lot of experience framing houses.  I can see that driving screws thru the entire exterior into the studs is not the way this is done (like putting sheathing on a house).   

Next question...I have been thinking a lot about how to make this entire thing waterproof.  Not just water tight, as given time anything will develope some small leaks.   What could I coat the surface with that will be attached to the fiberglass skin?  I considered gripset, but don't know if that will then cause any glue to fail.   Most of the rubberized compounds seem to have some nasty toxic materials.   Does the out gassing stop once cured?   I can leave the whole thing open and vented for a long time.   This is the high desert...dry, dry climate.   Pressure treated lumber is a bit heavy.  I haven't dealt with in a long while...do they still use arsenic?   Still, if I can use a lighter weight wood and treat it, I would prefer that to save on weight.

 

[djkeev]

Not everyone builds exactly the same.

Tell us what unit you have.

To save weight, use aluminum instead of wood.

Why waterproof? Crossing the English channel in it?

Dave

 

[BradKW]

Without pictures, it is difficult to be sure of what you're asking specifically. For example, a fiberglass shell is generally structurally sound on it's own and it's hard to picture a situation where adhering luan to the inside, and then studs, would make sense.

Also, speaking generally, I'm not sure where you want to put the waterproof coating...waterproofing goes on the outside, putting it on the inside won't do much other than a) delay evidence of a leak, and b) channel the evidence to a spot far enough away from actual leak it can make it hard to diagnose.

PT wood no longer has arsenic, however it still has an odor and is heavy. Unless there's specific spots that are likely to be exposed to moisture, such as a door sill, the only reason to use PT inside is that termites don't like to eat it.

Order some Sikaflex-221 and you'll be able to greatly reduce or eliminate need for mechanical fasteners. On an interior shell, just some creative bracing/clamping and temporary screws will go a long way. People won't truly understand what that product can do until they play with it themselves...

 

[VanKitten]

Says it cures on exposure to humidity. Oh.... It runs about 20% humidity here. Any idea how that effects this?

It's so dry here, rain (I hesitate to use that word) evaporates before reaching the ground.

 

[highdesertranger]

try this thread, https://vanlivingforum.com/Thread-repairing-water-damage . if you removed the fiberglass backing you will have to add more. I always try to save it. the fiberglass panels are glued to the studs. on the edges where trim covers it is stapled, screwed, and glued. hope this helps if you have more questions ask away. highdesertranger

 

[LoupGarou]

FlexSeal to the rescue!

Double check the weep holes in the window tracks. They should be free of dirt to alow water to drain.

 

[BradKW]

Good question...I would assume lower humidity just means slower cure time, but I can't say that for a fact...

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

If you need waterproof, I would look into boat paints.  This supplier is only one of many possibilities:

http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...=Topside Paint&category=34&refine=1&page=GRID