Van-Tramp adventures 2015

[Van-Tramp]

Chapel of the Transfiguration

http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/chapel-of-the-transfiguration/

The Chapel of the Transfiguration is a small log chapel in Grand Teton National Park and is now on the National Register of Historic Places . Built in 1925 it still holds services twice a week. It was built specifically to frame the Cathedral Group of peaks of the Teton mountain range, which it does fantastically. The old wooden floors creek to such an extent of annoyance, but the wood and stained-glass craftsmanship make up for it.

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[Van-Tramp]

Kayaking String and Leigh Lake

http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/kayaking-string-and-leigh-lake/

Finally, early Monday morning, after a weekend of rain (and a raging hangover thanks to a night of Calypso Cocktails), Kerri and I got to bring the kayaks back out to the water.

Our final destination to kayak in the area was the  String Lake to  Leigh Lake trip in the National Park. They are two bodies of water separated by a few hundred yards of land, which we were told time and time again, “it’s not so bad a portage”. With my back feeling better the portage challenge was accepted, and we set out from the Canoe Launch area of String Lake.

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Kerri, “scoonching” into String Lake

String Lake is a very small lake in comparison to Jenny and Leigh Lakes. In fact, it is laid out as a long, skinny, winding lake both very shallow and very clear. String Lake happens to be the lake in which I got to take a dip bath in a few years back after a long stretch of boondocking without any form of shower. Yea it holds a special place in my heart because of it, and for that reason alone I desperately wanted to kayak this small lake. As a side benefit, there was some amazing scenery…

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… but, every small lake must come to an end and String Lake came to an abrupt conclusion at a set or rapids. Those rapids descend from Leigh Lake just above, but we would not be traveling via the water. Here was the “not so bad” portage between the two lakes, and no one mentioned that it was up hill and over a few snow banks which proved quite hairy carrying a kayak…

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… and at the end of the quarter-mile-or-so portage was a set of stairs that drop you – and your 50+ pound kayak – back to water-level of Leigh Lake. Then, once back at the water, they left only *just* enough beach area to launch a single kayak at a time. Considering this is a common kayaking portage, the park service left a lot to be desired in the final 30 feet. This was definitely our most difficult portaging experience, but in the end it was worth it…

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… once on Leigh Lake and moving along the glass-like waters, the hardships of land life quickly faded away. With Mount Moran ahead and miles of open lake – which we shared with only three other people in kayaks – the adventure was just beginning.

As we slowly (very slowly) paddled our way towards Mount Moran with the Western banks of the lake on our left side we stumbled onto a tiny beach with what we thought was a sign post from a distance. As we neared the beach the signage was confirmed as “camp site #16″. Who new? There was back country camping way out here where no other trails traveled. Camp sites pretty much exclusive to human-powered boaters. This set off both our inner-explorer as we began scouting out some of these sites for some overnight kayaking at an undetermined future date.

It was at this time that I noticed a very particular log in the water ahead. Small, but funny looking enough to catch my eye. I looked over to Kerri, “is that a log or a beaver?” Before Kerri could reply the “log” changed it’s path. Beaver! I paddled closer – slowly – to try to get a photo with the uber-wide-angle lens of the GoPro but once I got within 30 feet the beaver slapped it’s tail on the water and dived underwater, never to be seen again. If you know anything about GoPro cameras, 30 feet is too far away to take a picture of such a small creature. In fact, though I have scanned all photos taken this day, I still can not find the beaver in any of them thanks to uber-wide-angle lens of the GoPro. Nevertheless…

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Our destination, between Mt Moran (right) and Mt Woodring (left)

At the end of our ‘trail’ was the foot of Mount Moran. Water cascaded down the mountainside and into Leigh Lake here. It also was the home of at least one of these kayak-camp-sites (#14). We beached to scout it out and have our quick meal of fruit and Kerri’s homemade cole-slaw (the only ‘slaw I have ever liked in my life).

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At camp site #14 with water cascading down the two mountains on either side

The return trip was easy and uneventful. We tried to spot the beaver again, but it remained elusive. The portage back to String Lake was simple enough (we learned to carry the kayaks on our shoulders) and we arrived back to the Canoe Launch with just over 7.5 miles traveled round trip.

 

[Almost There]

Wonderful reports, very envious of you two!

If you would like I can dig up some instructions on a kayak yoke that one of the guys here made for portaging his yak all over Algonquin Park. Others have copied it now and everyone reports back about  how comfortable it is.

 

[Van-Tramp]

I seriously doubt I will do any portaging on my own, which the yoke would help with best, but thank you. Kerri actually has a set of wheels to drag a kayak around on, but we were too lazy to dig them out of the back of the truck that day. We wont make that mistake again, so we will always have the wheels to take the brunt of the weight in these situations

 

[janncoo]

Looks like a wonderful trip and beautiful pics. Jan 

 

[Van-Tramp]

Isle of Kerri

http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/isle-of-kerri/

For our final kayaking in the Grand Teton area we chose to revisit Jackson Lake inside the National Park. Though it was one of our first, it has so many nooks-n-crannys that it deserved another day of exploration.

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This day, instead of heading into the inlets and channels to Half Moon Bay we paddled straight out of Coulter Bay into Jackson Lake proper to attack Half Moon Bay from the lake side. In the process we would skip right past a small island off the main land, so we stopped in for a peak around.

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It did not take long as the island was not much larger than a football field. It was clear we were not the only ones that set foot on the island, but nothing on the maps indicated a name. So, we named it as if we were the first explorers; Isle of Kerri (say it 3 times fast).
Back on the water, we stretched our legs in the full body of water that is Jackson Lake, but only long enough to work around the land to re-enter Half Moon Bay. Here we captivated ourselves with the smaller channels that intertwine around the small islands and the mainland itself in a maze-like fashion…

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… finally settling in on a secluded inlet with enough trees to block the breeze and give us some glass-like water where I dropped the GoPro into the lake for some underwater images. Many down logs collected in this area providing some nice images…

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As we turned back to Coulter Bay we came across yet another beaver, who was just as unimpressed and grouchy as the previous on in Leigh Lake. Again I tried to take some photos, and although I was able to find the pictures of the beaver later, it came out too just a few brown pixels is a sea of dark-green water, completely unnoticeable as a beaver or any wildlife at all. The images were promptly deleted, but we did see yet another beaver, which I must say was pretty cool.

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[Van-Tramp]

Going to Pray

http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/going-to-pray/

After spending almost three full weeks in the National Forest just outside of the Grand Teton National Park, and kayaking just about every body of water we could, we finally packed up and moved further North on our way towards Alaska. It was somewhat somber that we were leaving a place that both Kerri and I put at the top of our lists of places to be in the USA, and on the very day we were leaving the clouds prevented us from saying goodbye to our Teton mountain range that was our view each morning and evening during our stay. However, nomads we are, so we moved on anyway.

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North of the Tetons is Yellowstone National Park, of which I have visited four other times in the past five years I have been traveling the Western USA. It will always hold a honored spot in my memory as Yellowstone was the park that reignited my childhood desire to travel and explore. If it were not for Yellowstone in September of 2009, my current self would likely not exist.

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Sad as it is to admit, Yellowstone was not a stopping point for us this year. We were only to travel through her to stay 40 or so miles to the North, just South of Livingston, Montana; Pray, Montana is our home this week. Here we can day-trip to Bozeman and Livingston for the few days we have before work will keep us hunkered for the work week. On Saturday we will move on, stay in a few overnight places, and make our way all the way up to Whitefish, Montana which is our final distinction before entering Canada.

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[4GNomad]

Beautiful Pictures... I hope to make it to the Tetons next year.

 

[Van-Tramp]

Montana Grizzly Encounter

http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/montana-grizzly-encounter/

On a super cold day, with the threat of rain all day keeping us from going on a hike, we instead chose to visit Montana Grizzly Encounter near Bozeman, MT.

The bears can be viewed up close and personal in a large enclosure separated by what seems to be way-too-small-a-wall. Since I did not see human bodies scattered all over, I assumed we were safe enough. The handlers hide snacks all around this enclosure so the bears have to forage as they would in nature. Although it is a sanctuary, none of the bears will ever be released as they were all born in captivity so their natural instincts are severely stunted.

During our visit we got to meet Jake and Maggi. Jake weighs in at almost 900 pounds while Maggi is a petite 600. They were very playful during our short visit (it was super cold and we were standing outside) giving ample opportunity to snap the 80+ photos I took (keeping only the four).
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[Van-Tramp]

Chico Hot Springs

http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/chico-hot-springs/

For Kerri’s birthday we ventured over to Chico Hot Springs for an evening of mixed activities. We started with an hour long dip in the naturally fed mineral water hot tub which averages 103-degrees – a stark contrast to the 40-something-degree weather outside the water.  We followed the dip with a proper shower (our first in some days) then off to dinner at the Grille next door – the Artichoke Spinach Dip was amazing! Stuffed to the gills, another trip to yet another next door had us seated at the bar of the Saloon for a night-cap before the short drive back to camp. A worthy place to spend a relaxing evening.

 

[Van-Tramp]

Historic drinks in Livingston
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/historic-drinks-in-livingston/

With out final night in the area approaching it has become tradition to hit the town for a cocktail. Kerri is very particular about her food & drink so she always picks to coolest of places to visit.

Our first stop was the Mint Bar & Grill – before I can drink, I must eat – which is advertised as opening in the 1920’s (prohibition be damned) and has been there ever since. Here we ate some good ol’ ‘murican food with a traditional beer. Afterwards, we walked the 2 blocks to re-visit (we already stopped in earlier in the week, but it is just too cool) the Murray Bar which has a bit more lively vibe. It too has a long history – “more than 100 years” – in the downtown area, and if you are lucky you may see one of the many popular actors or artists who live in the nearby area (we did not). With no more room left in our guts, we relaxed for an hour while sipping an Old Fashion and taking in the local musician.

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Image @asolojourner

 

[Van-Tramp]

Passage Creek Falls Hike

http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/passage-creek-falls-hike/

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Moose crosses the river on his own, he is a big boy now

On our last day in the area, Moose and I got out for a much needed hike. Just up the road (about 16 miles) into the National Forest is the Passage Creek trailhead, which leads out to Passage Creek Falls. Moose and I started the hike about noon. Knowing of the afternoon rain risks did not stop us, we are tough!

The trail wound through what was once a dense forest. In 2006 a fire blew through the area destroying literally everything in sight. I was walking through the graveyard of thousands upon thousands of trees. Some still standing and some fallen, all were barely recognizable as it’s once tall and stout self.

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The plus side of the fire is the rebirth of the land over time. With more than 8 years of sunlight hitting the valley floor, it is the smaller plants turn to thrive, and Moose and I were just in time for some of the wild flower bloom.

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At the end of the trail, roughly 3 miles out, stands Passage Creek Falls. I was not expecting such a large and massive falls here. Normally you hear them from a good distance away, but this one was very stealth, hiding behind a large boulder in the trail until you round that bend – BAM – it jumps out. It is not very often I have those “oh wow” moments on the trail anymore, but this was one of them.

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Moose and I sat to eat lunch, take a few pictures, then turned to head back to the truck. The rain came about half way back down the trail. We both returned to camp in a soggy state, but it was worth it.

 

[Van-Tramp]

Grant-Kohrs Ranch again

http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/grant-kohrs-ranch-again/

Kerri and I are playing the Chimani game; checking off all the National Parks as we visit them. Even though she has a few more under her belt than I do, I am happy to re-visit places I have been and she has not just so she can get that next check-off.

One park was directly on our path up North so we popped in for a quick visit. The Grant-Kohrs Ranch National Historic Site is a working cattle ranch dating back back to the 1850’s and still in operation today. I have visited here before back in 2013. This time around the sun was out and it was not raining on me. Plus having a pretty girl by my side made for a much more pleasant visit.

We toured the buildings, watched the blacksmith to her thang, and had cowboy-coffee at the chuck wagon.

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[Van-Tramp]

Garnet Ghost Town

http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/garnet-ghost-town/

Not far outside of Missoula is an old ghost town which came to our attention thanks to an article a few months back regarding work-camping the ghost town during the winters. What an adventure that would be, huh? Not that we planned to stay in Montana over the winter, but a visit was earmarked some miles back.

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Garnet Ghost Town was a gold mining town in the mid to late 1800’s. By the early 1900’s it started it’s new career as a  ghost town. Many of the original buildings exist and can even be entered and toured. Artifacts found in the area by visitors are placed back into their respective homes, stores, or storage sheds as if there were still in use today – although with a bit more rust on them.

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Moose was able to accompany Kerri and me  on our walk around the town, even nearly getting into a “gun fight” with a rabbit that looked at him crossways in public. Other than that he was well behaved though anxious to explore the area for any varmint-types that may still live here.

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[Van-Tramp]

Kayaking the Whitefish River
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/kayaking-the-whitefish-river/


Ever since we began heading North, and Whitefish was on our planned route, I have been talking to Kerri about kayaking the Whitefish River that cuts through the middle of town. Kerri, who knows more than I do on the subject, kept telling me that our kayaks are not river kayaks and it would be dangerous. I, on the other hand, kept trying to explain that the Whitefish is nothing more than a long, skinny, lake with no risk of rapids. “It’s totally kayak-able” I argued.

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See, totally kayak-able!

Finally, once arriving in Whitefish Kerri saw that the river was in fact “totally kayak-able” so we set out for a short 3 mile paddle up the river to the Whitefish Lake to our North. The water was glass-like and easy in all respects. Trees heavily lined the banks offering refuge to a multitude of ducks, geese, and even some deer sprinkled the shoreline on our way through town to the lake.

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Passing under Hwy 93

On our return trip a gentle current pushed us South back to our launching point. We were able to put the paddles away at times and just cruise down the stream with no effort at all… at least until the next turn in the river.

PS – I brought the GoPro camera, snapped just a few early images before the battery died. I left the extra battery in the truck… ugh!

 

[Baloo]

I need to use my kayak more! Love the journal, great pics! I too just got a gopro, I need to figure the whole process out so I can start capturing my adventures. Look forward to more pics, and keep paddling!

 

[Van-Tramp]

Yaking Glacier National Park
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/yaking-glacier-national-park/

Being parked only minutes outside of Glacier National Park means we had to pop in, at least for a day, before crossing into Canada this weekend. For Kerri and me it was all about checking Lake McDonald  off our ‘kayaked’ list. We just couldn’t pass by a good reason to kayak in a National Park. 

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Dan (@malimish_dan) joined us out on the water for a short paddle. We had tried to paddle down the creek branching off the lake, but within a few dozen yards we realized that the current would be too strong to make it back up any long distances. We immediately turned around and I accepted blame for turning us all down that path.

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After an hour or so in the water, the entire group went up the 16 miles of road that were open at this time of the year and explored what we could.

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[offroad]

Was at glacier national twenty years ago. Such a scenic place.

 

[wagoneer]

Thanks for the wonderful images and comments.

 

[Van-Tramp]

Hungry Horse Reservoir
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/hungry-horse-reservoir/

I could give the story about why this reservoir exists (because humans built a Dam) and why the Dam exists (because we as humans are too stupid and build cities in flood plains) but I’m not going too. Instead, I will give you a link or two for anyone who cares to read the story.
For me, this reservoir has nothing to do with floods or natural resources. Too me it is just a body of water that may or may not be kayak-able so Kerri and I set off to find out. It is totally kayak-able! However, once we set into the water the rain came in and began soaking us. It was a nice reprieve from the heat, and we were lucky to have actually changed into correct swim-clothing (something we have not done since Arizona).
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The trip was not long, with maybe an hour in the water. We just explored the inlets of a few creeks into the reservoir and some tiny islands that only exist because the water level is down so far.

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I did bring my “sea” kayak up each inlet as far as I could. The current was strong, and the water was shallow, but I loved the challenge. Kerri
watched from a safe distance waiting to pull by dead body from the lake. I came out alive each time.

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No wildlife to speak of – but for some water foul – and no other human traffic on the water either. Pleasant enough kayaking and with variable weather it will be one not easily forgotten.

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