Van-Tramp adventures 2015

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March 4 - Fort Bowie National Historic Site
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/fort-bowie-national-historic-site/

A few years back I visited the Chiricahua National Monument for a hike while staying at a RV park in Wilcox, AZ. Also planned that day was to visit Fort Bowie just up the mountain but the 8 miles of washboard dirt road scared me away. I had even purchased the lapel-pin while in the Chiricahua Visitor’s Center (I collect them from all National Parks) prior to the failed attempt. I have carried the guilt of having the pin without actually visiting the site ever since …



Fort Bowie was a 19th-century outpost of the United States Army located in southeastern Arizona near the present day town of Willcox, Arizona. The remaining buildings and site are now protected as Fort Bowie National Historic Site. Wikipedia


[img=474x267]http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/IMG_2377-1024x576.jpg[/img]

Since the group (Aluminarium, @asolojourner, and myself) are camped only a few short miles from Fort Bowie it was a day-one destination for us all. We piled into a single truck – more capable then my van of handling the washboard road – and quickly arrived at the Fort Bowie National Historic Site trailhead… yes, trailhead. We still had another 1.5 miles of hiking ahead of us before we got to the Fort itself. I do not know why but I had always envisioned the road to lead us directly to the Fort. Just clueless I guess, but luckily the four of us were packed and ready for a hike, so we set out the way of the tramp… on foot.

The trail brought us past multiple sites that had to do with the Fort (Overland Mail route, Apache Spring) and the battles fought with the local Apache Indians (Cemetery, site of Battle of Apache Pass), each with plaques to educate us in each lesson. This also broke the 1.5 mile hike into small segments with sites-to-be-seen every quarter mile or so. A nice way to setup a trail if you ask me.

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When we arrived at the Fort itself, the Visitor’s Center was full of artifacts and photos of the time and more educational plaques. In the corner, a chest of replica era-specific clothes were there for the “young adults” to try… so we did. Finally we set out to see the sights of the Fort before hiking back to the truck and much needed happy-hour drinks.

[img=535x301]http://www.aluminarium.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/pioneers.jpg[/img]
Above image credit – Aluminarium
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March 8 - Indian Bread Rock
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/indian-bread-rocks/

We spent this past week boondocking not far outside of Bowie, Arizona at Indian Bread Rocks which has turned out to be another great addition to my list of boondocking locations here in the south west. This area is simply large rock formations within the Dos Cabezas Mountains Wilderness and administered by the BLM.

[img=672x372]http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/IMG_2428-672x372.jpg[/img]


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I must admit, I never made it up and onto these huge rock formations as I was too busy socializing again (funny how that happens more and more) but Moose enjoyed the week of off-leash time and even found a few cow friends to play with, even though my heart skipped a few beats.

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We reconnected with Leigh & Brian of Aluminarium, John & Laura of The Democratic Travelers (which I have not seen since my Glacier trip), Amber & Todd of @campytrails, Jess and Sam Curren, and Kerri of @asolojourner.

Some of us hiked up to Fort Bowie early in the week, but as the work week set in the only real options for most were after business hours socializing. This meant drinks and dinner at one family’s trailer each night – I did not host as we could not fit 11 people + dogs in the van. On our final night together, six of us went out for Mexican food and hit two different local bars for pool and karaoke.
I also celebrated by 61st National Park over the week with a photo shoot (in jest, of course) showing off my lapel collection. Behold!
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Mar 10 - Tonto National Monument
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/tonto-national-monument/

Before arriving at the next week’s camping location, I dropped into Tonto National Monument (my 62nd National Park) which houses two Salado-style cliff dwellings from 700 years ago. It took a half-mile paved hike up the side if the hillside before getting the dwelling but once there the cool air inside offered some relief. A volunteer offered up some facts as I snapped some pictures. The only fact that really stuck was that the finger prints (more like grooves) in the mud walls are original and 700 years old. Pretty cool it you ask me.

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March 11 - Kayaking Theodore Roosevelt Lake
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/kayaking-theodore-roosevelt-lake/

Now that I am a Captain of a new kayak I feel a need to sail – err paddle that is. It has influenced my decisions on where to camp, so much so that Theodore Roosevelt Lake has been on my todo list for a few weeks, even though it was well off my path.


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I got my feet wet,( pun intended), for the first time, earlier this week. Setting out from the campground’s boat launch with no real destination planned other than “over there” as I pointed my still unnamed kayak North.  We paddled at a leisurely pace, taking breaks regularly. Boats, birds, submerged forests, and fellow campers were all sights to be seen.

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Finally, after 3.25 miles and 2 hours we settled in on a small sandy bank at the Northern tip of the lake to stretch for a few minutes before turning South for the 1-hour-full-hour-against-the-wind paddle back to the boat ramp.As a Captain, I call this a successful first voyage for my new water-stead.

I did end the day with a wee-bit of pink on my shoulders and neck, but I tan more than burn so I’m not worried about it. My bigger concern is the soreness in my shoulders from paddling, and butt from sitting, for so long.
 
Mar 17 - Tuzigoot National Monument
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/tuzigoot-national-monument/

Tuzigoot National Monument preserves a pueblo ruin on the summit of a ridge just outside of Cottonwood, Arizona. I’d like to share a story about the hike to the ruin, but it was a 0.3 mile paved trail so nothing much happened other than one foot stepped in front of another a few times. I snapped a few photos, bought by obligatory lapel pin and sticker for Big Blue’s rear window, and was back out of the park within 20 minutes of arriving. Tuzigoot is my 63rd National Park visited since I started traveling in 2010.

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March 19 - Red Rock State Park
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/revisiting-red-rock-state-park/

Staying just down the road from this week’s camp is Red Rock State Park. I’ve been here before and enjoyed it so much that I went again while I had the opportunity, but only after researching the gun laws that irritated me so much in my last visit.

Something the State Park does not tell you is that guns are only prohibited in “developed” parts of the park (picnic areas, visitors center, etc) but permitted in the undeveloped areas such as the trail system. How convenient for them to leave that little factoid out… so I did what I normally do, carry.

Due to a recent flood wiping out two of the three bridges and much of the bank of Oak Creek, the scenery had changed a lot at the lower portion of the trail system. This did not take anything away from the upper trails though which remained a beautiful and enjoyable hike.

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Always seeking something new out of a trail system, I chose to hike the trails I did not hike in my previous visit. Visiting the House of Apache Fire (a historic house in the center of the park) first I took the Coyote Ridge trail to Eagle’s Nest Loop which brought me to the highest point in the park, and a nice view of the entire place. A walk down the ridge and alongside the washed out river did the trick for a mellow hike on a day off.

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Mar 21 - Cottonwood-Sedona boondocking
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/cottonwood-sedona-boondocking/


After a failed attempt to camp South of Cottonwood on Thousand Trails Road (it was just not very pretty and too crowded) I had to settle on a backup location. Smack in between of Cottonwood and Sedona on highway 89A is Loy Butte Road leading into the Coconino National Forest. It is here that we called home for the past week.

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Knowing I would be running into town a few times we chose to stay near the highway. I could have ventured miles down the gravel road where there are many other sites worthy of camping. Some have great views of the red hills towards Sedona while others are tucked away behind hillsides for maximum solitude. One recommendation if you are coming out this way is to take the time to drive the entire length of the road before making your camping decision.

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We did enjoy some early morning walks, stumbling on a fully functional airport just a few hundred yards away, of the remote control size, where a club of older gents come fly their RC planes. I have to admit, if I lived near such a place, I too would be easily convinced to buy a plane or two and get involved, that’s how impressive this airport was (sorry, no photo).

I had a chance meeting of another van-dweller; John Oleary.  John and I had traded a few messages on Facebook and hoped to meet up in Santa Fe in a few weeks, but his travel plans changed and he ended up in this area. By sheer chance he happened to drive onto Loy Butte Road looking for a place to camp and saw Big Blue. Two days of eating, drinking, and story telling ensued. John just began his van-life just a few weeks ago, and I am told that my blog helped him make some of that transition easier.

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John standing on his van to get a view of the land

The site chosen also happened to be the rally-point for the numerous ATV tour companies based of out Sedona. Each morning a truck (or three) would pull up with a half-dozen ATVs in tow. Then a van filled with paying customers follow, each mounting an ATV before buzzing off into the desert only to return a few hours later to buzz back onto the trailer, into the van, and drive off in a cloud of dust (and dog barks). However, it also happened to be the rallying point for the hot air balloon companies which flew overhead each morning in the cool air. While the ATVs were an annoyance, the balloons were a treat and some of the pilots clearly enjoyed having a target to aim at in the desert. On one occasion the balloon, filled with waving and smiling customers hissed by only feet above me as I snapped the camera in their direction.

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John snapped the better photo (shown below)…
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Thanks for the update van-tramp. I've been eyeing temperatures up towards cottonwood and Sedona with an eye toward moving north. First though I need to be too hot for a few days. I've been in chilly New Mexico and will enjoy warming my bones in southern Arizona for a few days. 
 
Mar 24 - Walnut Canyon National Monument Revisit
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/walnut-canyon-national-monument-revisit/

I had visited this National Monument 2 years earlier, but since Kerri had never been here and I had failed to acquire a lapel pin back then, it was revisiting time for Walnut Canyon National Monument.

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A view of the “island”

The park is actually quite small, with only two trails to choose from; The Rim Trail leads you a short distance out from the Visitor’s Center along the rim of the canyon(duh) while the Island Trail drops you down into the canyon itself to tour some of the cliff dwellings.

Two years ago half of this trail was closed, so this time I got to hike the full loop, all 0.9 miles of it. It is not the length that is the hurdle, it is the 200+ stairs that must be traversed to go down, then back up out of the canyon.

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Hey,thanks for the great posts!Me and Vic were at Ft. Bowie in Feb.Vic swears it should be pronounced"boughy".Unfortunately,we arrived too late to visit the visitors center.It was a nice hike though.
 
Wow,now that house has some thermal mass!!

I'd go see it, but that's about 190 too many steps for my old knees! But I'm really glad you showed it to me!
Bob
 
Mar 25 - Petrified Forest National Park revisit
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/petrified-forest-national-park-revisit/

This day brings another revisit of a National Park. Even though I had already been here the weather prevented me from getting out of the vehicle on my previous visit. This time around the weather was clear so we set out for a few short walks among the “forest” during the visit, hiking both the Giant Logs and the Crystal Forest trails

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The Northern area of the park is known as the Painted Desert, for reasons clear once you see a photograph. The erosion of numerous layers of differently colored soil does the painting. The blue canvas on which this desert is painted is so uninterrupted that you are even able to see the snow capped Humphreys Peak just outside of Flagstaff, 120 miles away.

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Two AH1 helicopters fly over the painted desert
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Reptilian eye or crystalized log?
[img=150x150]http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/IMG_2720-150x150.jpg[/img]
The bark is near perfectly preserved
 
Mar 26 - El Morro National Monument
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/el-morro-national-monument/

El Morro National Monument is now my 64th National Park visited since starting my travels back in 2010. I had the opportunity to see it two years back when I was in the area, but fuel costs ruled my thoughts back then, so I did not drive the few extra miles it would have taken. I do not know why, but I recall thinking that this was just a statue. How wrong I was.


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El Morro National Monument is located on an ancient east-west trail in western New Mexico. The main feature of this National Monument is a great sandstone promontory with a pool of water at its base. Wikipedia
The large sandstone walls are chock-full of petroglyphs from ancient natives. On top of those are inscriptions of people who stopped here for the water during their travels. They visitors range from military men to a young girl to make her own history years later. Some of these inscriptions date back 400+ years. Included amongst the ancient and historical are panels of smooth sandstone wall. It is clear someone intentionally removed many inscriptions. Kerri learned that these were inscriptions done post 1906 and were deemed “illegal graffiti” by the park’s first caretaker, so all were removed.

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Mar 28 - Sandstone Bluff
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/sandstone-bluff/

Sandstone Bluff overlooks the 3000-thousand year old lava flow protected by the El Malpais National Monument. The sandstone itself is 200-million years old, formed by ancient seas, and offers an ideal place to setup a few chairs and watch the sun set.Complete with a thermos filled with hot chocolate (and a little Kahlua), fresh blueberry muffins, a pair of chairs, and cozy blanket, the sunset was the perfect end to our week stay just outside the park.


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March 31 - Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/kasha-katuwe-tent-rocks-national-monument/

Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument preserves the cone shaped rock formations that are the products of volcanic eruptions that occurred 6 to 7 million years ago, and marks my 65th National Park visited. Not even knowing of this National Monument’s existence until arriving in the Santa Fe area, the plan to visit it became priority number 1 when we arrived.

[img=233x92]http://www.blm.gov/style/medialib/b...ges_symbols.Par.63563.Image.-1.-1.1.gif[/img]
A good three-quarters of an hour out of Santa Fe, we arrived to find a single Ranger staffing the entry gate. Here we were informed of the every-so-important “no-dogs” rule which was recently enacted thanks to previous pet owners not obeying the “pick up after your dog” rule. We were also informed of the locations of the two hiking trails we ha to choose from this day. From there we parked in the trailhead that lead us to Slot Canyon where we hiked out to explore the Tent Rocks and canyon.

The biggest surprise was just how crowded the park was. It seemed everyone from Santa Fe drove all the way out to hike this very trail. It was so overbearing at times, you can see in the photos that I had to aim up to cut out the crowds of people on the trail.
… here I am fighting for space on the trail among the crowd and at that  moment I realized that I actually consider myself a native. Not a native to the Santa Fe area, or even New Mexico, but to the National Parks. These people were in “my space”. Since I am more experienced (I presumed) it is they who were to tourists, while I was the native. It is weird how the brain works sometimes…
Nevertheless, the hike continued and we saw rocks, and people, and rocks, and people, and a cave, then more people, and finally our car where we gladly turned on the AC and got out of there.

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April 1 - Pecos National Historical Park
http://www.van-tramp.com/wp/pecos-national-historical-park/

I must have driven past this park of New Mexico a dozen times in the past few years, but I have never stopped in this park. That all changed on this day when Kerri and I went well out of our way to drop in. We arrived with just 1 hour before the gates closed, but since two of the three sections of the park were closed to the public the time was enough to complete a visit (66th National Park).

The main part of the park, and the area we were visiting, preserves Pecos Pueblo and the mission church which really only consisted of a few large stone and mud walls. The real excitement was dropping into the Kivas (underground pits with a roof).

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As we were leaving I was reading up on the literature supplied by the park. It describes how Coronado’s expedition, in search of gold, killed many of the natives only to find no gold. This didn’t stop Coronado from continuing in his search, and killing, before finally returning to New Spain empty handed (and nearly dead himself). Read it here. The pamphlet ends with a single sentence that just boiled my blood, and it went something like this, “The natives and the Spanish traded weapons, blankets, food, etc to the benefit of both…” To the benefit of both? Seriously, white-man arrives, kills the natives, and that is a benefit? I am a firm believer that historical fact should trump political correctness, and in this case the Park Service failed miserably.

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Fabulous photos, VT! Thank you for presenting these reports.
 
This is all very inspiring, I'm taking notes for future travels!
 

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