Tutorial for adding in-line fuses

[mothercoder]

I’ve been looking on YT for a good tutorial on how to add in-line fuses on my solar set up. I’m sure it’s not hard but haven’t done it before so I need instruction. TIA!

 

[Weight]

That a very general question. As I have 4 panels in parallel, I need fuses for each panel. So I used a fuse panel with 15 amp blade fuses as a junction box. Some use fuses designed to fit into the MC4 connections. The 4 awg leads from there down to the controller doesn't need fuses, but I have a disconnect switch. The 4 awg from controller to the battery has a 60 amp fuse at the positive battery. Also have a disconnect on that cable.

 

[DannyB1954]

I ran my wires down individually from the panels to the junction block and fuse holder. I did it this way so that if I wanted to reconfigure the system from 12 volts to 24 volts I could get at the wires real easy. I could also test one panel at a time very easy. I used this one, https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Way-Circ...t-Holder-New/112987768864?hash=item1a4e988820 The fuse doesn't care which way the electricity flows. Power comes down the wire into the fuse holder where it is combined in parallel with all the other panels and then goes to the controller. Between the controller and the batteries is a 60 amp circuit breaker.
I used 10 gauge wire that can handle 30 amps and the panels put out maybe 9 amps. I did this because the smaller the wire, the more resistance it has so the voltage drops more. There are advantages and disadvantages to most everything including wiring panels in series or in parallel. I like parallel because if one panel gets put into the shade, the others will still perform well. In series if one panel gets into the shade, all the panels in that circuit will stop working well.
You can see my solar here I am not monetized, so I am not trying to promote my channel here.

 

[mothercoder]

I do not plan on having a fuse box at this time. I’m just talking about adding in-line fuses to the positive cables.

 

[WalkaboutTed]

Heat shrink butt connectors. You can see tutorials on YouTube. I used them for the fridge and a couple of other places that I didn't use a fuse block.
Ted

 

[KathyC]

I do not plan on having a fuse box at this time.  I’m just talking about adding in-line fuses to the positive cables.

The easiest way is to simply add an inline fuse that connects readily to the MC4.  Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/RENOGY-Waterproof-Line-Fuse-Holder/dp/B00YG2IAQ4

Whether your have Renogy panels or not, their quick summary of how to fuse your solar system is helpful/easy:

https://www.renogy.com/blog/how-to-fuse-your-solar-system/

 

[mayble]

I opted for these circuit breakers:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4K9MXD/ref=twister_B01H3DKGBE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Easy installation, easy operation. One between the panels and controller, one between controller and battery, and another between battery and fuse block. 

Doesn't answer your question, but that seems to be the theme

 

[mothercoder]

Thanks. Doesn’t look like I will get a direct, simple answer. Perhaps because nothing with solar is simple. Maybe I’ll just store all my components, get a battery charger and use that until I can get someone to help me with the install. So damn frustrating. . Or maybe I’ll just forego the fuses and cross my fingers until I can get someone to do that part for me.

 

[tx2sturgis]

Are you asking about the actual 'mechanical' part of installing a fuse holder?

Or, where the fuses should be and how to size them?

You should fuse the positive cable coming from the battery, and there should be a fuse panel, and in some cases, the solar panels should be fused.

If you can be specific, we might be able to help.

 

[highdesertranger]

I am curious, what's wrong with those inline fuses that you plug right into your MC4 cables? seems easy to me. highdesertranger

 

[mothercoder]

IMy thought was that I could put in-line fuses in on all the positive cables and forego a breaker box/fuse panel for now. I can only use the MC4 fuse between the panels and the controller, right? I would need other fuses between the controller/battery and inverter/battery.

 

[highdesertranger]

ok I see. I thought we were just talking about the panels. you can put inline fuses like these in,

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=a9_sc_...rds=inline+fuse+holder&ie=UTF8&qid=1527457672

but from experience once you get more then a few of them it gets hard to keep track of them. plus your wire starts to look like a birds nest. highdesertranger

 

[mothercoder]

ok  I see.  I thought we were just talking about the panels.  you can put inline fuses like these in,

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=a9_sc_...rds=inline+fuse+holder&ie=UTF8&qid=1527457672

but from experience once you get more then a few of them it gets hard to keep track of them.  plus your wire starts to look like a birds nest.  highdesertranger

Okay. But how do you add them? Sorry to be so dense & needy.

 

[highdesertranger]

boy you wern't kidding when you said there were no good tutorials. I just went through 10 pages of youtube vids and they all had serious flaws or really didn't give a good tutorial. look at this one then ask questions here. I don't see how she works with those nails. LOL



highdesertranger

 

[tx2sturgis]

Perfectly manicured nails....I never thought to have THAT done before working around electricity....

:dodgy:

 

[tx2sturgis]

Okay. But how do you add them? Sorry to be so dense & needy.

If you watched the video HDR posted, and instead of a butt splice, you crimped on a ring terminal on one end, you will then be able to attach an inline ATC fuse holder directly to your battery terminals. 

The normal ATC fuse holders are typically limited to 30 amps, so for the next larger size, you might want to use an ATC-MAX....its a lot larger and will hold a fuse in the 40-60 amp range. If you need more than that, its a good idea to go with the ANL fuse holders, these will take you past 100 amps. 

These will also have MUCH heavier wire, and the butt splices and ring terminals required will need to be crimped with a heavy duty crimper.

 

[mothercoder]

boy you wern't kidding when you said there were no good tutorials.  I just went through 10 pages of youtube vids and they all had serious flaws or really didn't give a good tutorial.  look at this one then ask questions here.  I don't see how she works with those nails.  LOL



highdesertranger

Thank you. Now I don’t feel quite so dumb. I’ll take a watch tomorrow when my brain is fresh.

 

[bigskybob]

Fuses shoud be placed close to the batteries to avoid the resistance of the wiring to the inverter.Which woud give a false reading.

 

[Weight]

It is very important to have a fuse at the battery positive. You can use a inline such as this.; https://baymarinesupply.com/wiring/fuses/bep-marine-anl-fuse-holder.html I like these fuses that mount on the battery stud.; https://shop.marinehowto.com/products/blue-sea-marine-rated-battery-fuse
On my solar system, I only have a fuse on the battery. The wires are large enough to handle anything from the panels.
Here is a quick lesson about selecting fuses.; https://www.bluesea.com/resources/1441

 

[makenmend]

Thank you. Now I don’t feel quite so dumb. I’ll take a watch tomorrow when my brain is fresh.

That is a useful video and if you go that way I have a few of those fuses I don't need you'd be welcome to.

I preferred to use the reset able breaker Mable mentioned,  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4K9MXD/ref...UTF8&psc=1

so I can quickly/easily isolate my system when doing maintenance or adding/removing equipment.


you can see them just below the charge controller bottom left 1st pic.

MM