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VanKitten

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I would like to get a survey of what people are using.

   I have had someone tell me to avoid Firestone for the RV.  Just junk
   I had a worker at the tire store tell me that the Michelin tires have issues with sidewall failure
    Same guy recommend iron man ...never heard of it before.

   This is going to go on an e350 RV. (Total gross weight 10,000... Expected  finished curb weight 8,000). 

What do people use?  What weight vehicle?
 
I'm running Toyo AT2 tires on my Ram 2500. They were expensive, but it looks like I'll exceed the 50,000 mile warranty by a little and this is on a truck that weighs between 10,000 and 11,000 lbs most of the time. They are all terrain tires as my truck is 4 wheel drive. I've been happy with the traction and handling also - they of course don't have the same traction as a mud terrain, but do well, and handle better, along with no mileage penalty that I can see. I live in Colorado so drive on snow and ice all winter - performance has been good there also. The tires on my truck are 285/70/17 size, but they offer a wide range of sizes in this tire to meet many needs I plan to replace them when the time comes with the same tires, and I think I would run them on a van also if I had one. I'm actually thinking of putting a set on my cargo trailer conversion also.
 
never heard of Michelin having side wall failures. I kinda depends on your driving. If you are going to do a lot of off road driving I would recommend BFG All Terrains if you are doing mostly highway driving I would go with Michelin's. what ever you do get LT load range E tires and I would try to get made in the USA tires. also road hazard is a must, plus if you are traveling the country buy from a nation wide retailer so your road hazard is actually worth something. highdesertranger
 
Several people here recommended Michelin tires for me when I asked last spring.

Here in Canada they had the best warranty of anything I could find - 100,000 kms and they weren't considerably more expensive than other tires I looked at.

I like them, they're good on the road, and no complaints about noise. They also handled everything I threw at them in the AZ desert last winter.

Proper inflation for the load you're carrying is of great importance. Every time I have an oil change done I have to arm-wrestle with the guys who want to under inflate my tires. And they're not even the tire dealers who want them low on pressure so they wear out faster!

I'm running Michelin LTX MS/2s on my GMC 2500.
 
I'm a big fan of Goodyear Wranglers. I've got mudders on the back of my van which have held up extremely well for mudders. But my girlfriend just replaces a really nice set of all-terrain after 55,000 miles. They worked so great she bought the exact same tire.

They offer them with Kevlar on the sidewalls, I recommend that for the desert and off road where I like to go.
Bob
 
Almost There said:
Several people here recommended Michelin tires for me when I asked last spring.

Here in Canada they had the best warranty of anything I could find - 100,000 kms and they weren't considerably more expensive than other tires I looked at.

I like them, they're good on the road, and no complaints about noise. They also handled everything I threw at them in the AZ desert last winter.

Proper inflation for the load you're carrying is of great importance. Every time I have an oil change done I have to arm-wrestle with the guys who want to under inflate my tires. And they're not even the tire dealers who want them low on pressure so they wear out faster!

I'm running Michelin LTX MS/2s on my GMC 2500.


I just installed today a new set of 4 Michelin Defender LTX, this is a new release, they replaced the LTX MS/2. Michelin added new components that promises to last longer with a thread wear of 800 vs 720 on MS/2s. 70.000 mile warranty, not bad.
before I got my tires install, I went to michelinman.com and asked (via chat) recommended pressure and they said 29!
Not happy with that, I made a call to michelin tech center and the guy (very polite) based on the tire size and vehicle model said he would not recommend more than 36psi on both axles.
So 36 I said to the installer (Costco) and they were recommending 35psi front, 38psi rear.
My concern is that at 36psi they look under inflated, and the vehicle is not even loaded with camping stuff.
My van is a 03 GMC Savana 1500 conversion van.

"Almost There" What exact pressure are you running on your LTXs?
 
Bridgestone Duravis M700 HD here on a F-Superduty (Now known as an F-450) with a sixteen foot box and likely 13000 pounds. Loving them so far and best of all? Made in JAPAN! Sorry to the USA folks, but these are some quality shoes for the old girl!
 
03Savana said:
I just installed today a new set of 4 Michelin Defender LTX, this is a new release, they replaced the LTX MS/2. Michelin added new components that promises to last longer with a thread wear of 800 vs 720 on MS/2s. 70.000 mile warranty, not bad.
before I got my tires install, I went to michelinman.com and asked (via chat) recommended pressure and they said 29!
Not happy with that, I made a call to michelin tech center and the guy (very polite) based on the tire size and vehicle model said he would not recommend more than 36psi on both axles.
So 36 I said to the installer (Costco) and they were recommending 35psi front, 38psi rear.
My concern is that at 36psi they look under inflated, and the vehicle is not even loaded with camping stuff.
My van is a 03 GMC Savana 1500 conversion van.

"Almost There" What exact pressure are you running on your LTXs?

I'm on 225/75R16s with a maximum tire pressure shown on the tire of 80 PSI Cold for single tire. I run them at 60 on the front and 65 on the rear to help compensate for all the weight I have in the cargo area - 2 Whynter fridge units, 4 Trojan batteries, cabinets, bed, gear, more gear, storage, etc, etc. etc.

Check the tires themselves for the weight and pressure ratings and then do a quick calculation of how close to upper load limits you think you are.

There is actually a way to figure out if your tires are properly inflated for the load. I can't remember where I found it but it goes like this:

Take your vehicle with it's usual load to a paved parking area. Use a piece of kids sidewalk chalk to mark a straight line across the width of the tire tread. You can do all four wheels at the same time but it's easier to figure out if you just do one axle at a time. Clean the pavement of loose stones etc and then pull the vehicle forward until you've driven over the chalk lines you put on the tires.

If the tread lines from the chalk meeting the pavement are even all the way across the width of the tread then you're within a good pressure range. If the outside is missing, you're overinflated - the outside edges aren't hitting the pavement. If the inside is missing then you're underinflated - the sidewalls are supporting the tire.

Repeat until happy!!

I found that most places want to under inflate your tires. You get a slightly softer ride but you lose gas mileage and the tires wear faster. Not surprising if they're in the business of selling gas or tires... :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
I just replaced the tires on the 1993 Class C I recently purchased.
The Michelins that were on it were 13 years old with 20k+ miles on them, and looked like they could go another 20k.
I replaced with the same. I've heard nothing but good things about Michelin.
 
I put goodyear wrangler duratrac LT 265/70R17 on my 1500 silverado. they make so much noise that i don't drive over 40 mph with the windows down.
 
I have 6 Toyo's on the ground on my Class C..most importantly (to me) is they were manufactured in 2013 which will give me about another 3 years usage out of them unless something catastrophic happens. I also had new flexible valve stems installed which now allows me to check all tires in about 5 minutes rather than the 30 minutes before (what a hassle). To me tire age and constant pressure monitoring is more important than brand.

Just reread the OP original post where he referenced the "Iron Man"..I just had a new one put on the spare rim..suppose to be an okay tire and I'm simply looking for a tire to get me to a shop for tire repairs..BTW the original spare tire was made in 1999 and when the tire shop was taking it off the spare rim the bead completely ripped out..yikes..caught that one in time.
 
what type of flexible valve stems did you put on? are they rated for the load rating of the tires? for load range E dually tires the valve stems must be steel not rubber. highdesertranger
 
Thanks highdesertranger..they are steel braided. I had them on a Class A years ago with no problems..hoping for the same again with this Class C.
 
I had the shop balance all wheels and realign the wheel holes..they installed the extensions (by my request) so I don't know where they got them. Here's a Google inquiry that will put you in the neighborhood:

braided stainless steel valve stem extension

Good luck..Ken
 
I used to run a small fleet of dually trucks and box vans. I used the BF Goodrich Commercial TA with excellent results. They are durable, tough and give a relatively quiet ride. 

On my personal trucks these days, I use the Michelin LT.

Michelin has always made outstanding tires. For years now, Michelin has owned BF Goodrich, and there has been a lot of technology transfer between the two companies. Knowing that, I tried the BFG Commercial TA's and was not disappointed.

These are the only two tires I'd consider for a van or truck. 

There are Michelins on my school bus as well. They are way out of date and I wouldn't drive across the state on them, much less across the country. However, they show NO cracks at all (thanks in part to being an excellent tire, and in part to being parked in a friend's hangar for the last few years). I did just drive the bus 70 miles from the hangar to where it's now parked, in order to start working on it. It was a hot day, and I was a little concerned. I actually stopped just before I got on the Interstate to check them with an infrared thermometer, and was pleased at how cool they were. The bus will do 70, but I stayed in the right lane and only went 55. I checked the tires again when I arrived. The temps were still fine, and no cracks appeared during the trip!  

There will be brand new Michelins on it when it hits the road. 

Everyone should know how to read the DOT date code on tires. Since the year 2000,  it will be a 4 digit code. (If your tires have an older3 digit code, replace them NOW!!!) The code on my bus tires is 3706, meaning they were made in the 37th week of 2006. According to the industry, you should not be running on tires more than 6 years old. (As I said, they are way out of date!)

Despite my recent informed/calculated/cautious trip, I agree. A blowout can kill you. If there had been any sign of fatigue in the tire carcasses, I would have tracked down a current-date set of worn-out tires to make the trip. It's not the tread depth that matters, it's whether or not the carcass is losing integrity.

Tire rubber hardens as it ages, even if it isn't driven much. (This is cross-linking, just like happens with your skin as you age.) Hard rubber generates more heat as the tires rotate, which in turn acts harshly on the stiffer tire carcass. Heat + inflexibility = failure. If you're operating a commercial vehicle, the DOT can impound your vehicle for out of date tires, and hold you until you have current-date tires installed.

Tires matter. They can be a life or death decision. Hope this gives everyone some perspective...
 
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