Time to paint the exterior ..

[Clan Graham]

And unless missed it, there is not a section for it :dodgy: So here is my issue ... Someone painted my bus partially, before I received it. And they used some kind of spray paint, which is now partially peeling at the edges, and in other places where it is not peeling, it feels slightly oxidized and questionable to paint over.

So now ... My first thought is to rent a pressure washer, but I do not know if it will remove the spray paint which is still stuck down ... Suggestions ?

 

[Patrick46]

I'd definately start with a good through pressure washing before painting...and NO, it won't remove the paint unless your hold it right up close the the paintjob.

And chances are, if it DOES blast away any loose paint, then that's a good thing!! You don't wanna be painting over old loose paint.
Your paintjob can only turn out as good as the prepjob you put into it. If you paint over dirt...guess what'll happen if you ever gets it wet?? Any paint that's over the dirt will come off as the dirt gets washed away. Maybe not at first, but over time it will.
Same thing with painting over old loose paint. If it ever peels off, then bye-bye to all that nice new work!

I'd scuff the entire bus skin 'lightly' to remove any old paint and crap that's on the surface, and to give the new paint some 'tooth' to grab into. Any bare metal will need to get primered too. Don't do all this work only to have it go to crap in a year or so.
In that case, you'd be better off not painting it at all.

What kind of paint are you gonna use?? There are some paints that are incredibly tough AND easy to work with too...and even give you a great finished job, without breaking the bank.

 

[Clan Graham]

I'd definately start with a good through pressure washing before painting...and NO, it won't remove the paint unless your hold it right up close the the paintjob.

And chances are, if it DOES blast away any loose paint, then that's a good thing!! You don't wanna be painting over old loose paint.
Your paintjob can only turn out as good as the prepjob you put into it. If you paint over dirt...guess what'll happen if you ever gets it wet?? Any paint that's over the dirt will come off as the dirt gets washed away. Maybe not at first, but over time it will.
Same thing with painting over old loose paint. If it ever peels off, then bye-bye to all that nice new work!

I'd scuff the entire bus skin 'lightly' to remove any old paint and crap that's on the surface, and to give the new paint some 'tooth' to grab into. Any bare metal will need to get primered too. Don't do all this work only to have it go to crap in a year or so.
In that case, you'd be better off not painting it at all.

What kind of paint are you gonna use?? There are some paints that are incredibly tough AND easy to work with too...and even give you a great finished job, without breaking the bank.

Sanding was never an optional thing. I plan on sanding it to 220 only. I was just hoping the pressure washer would remove the white spray paint rather completely. I don't know how well that is stuck over the original yellow.

I plan on using XO Rust in gallons, because they have a blue I want. I may use Rustoleum gallons for the white though. Rolled on.

I am all ears

 

[akrvbob]

I wish I could be more helpful, but it's something I've never done. I do know many people have done it and written about it on the web, so I'm sure a Google search would bring up a lot of great info!!

Hopefully you'll start a thread about it and tell us all about your progress so the next guy who comes and asks will find an answer here!! That would be very much appreciated!
Bob

 

[Clan Graham]

I wish I could be more helpful, but it's something I've never done. I do know many people have done it and written about it on the web, so I'm sure a Google search would bring up a lot of great info!!

Hopefully you'll start a thread about it and tell us all about your progress so the next guy who comes and asks will find an answer here!! That would be very much appreciated!
Bob

Yes sir Bob ... It will be a part of this thread. Cheers

 

[Patrick46]

Rolling on X-O Rust is a great way to do this!! Rustoleum is great too.

get yourself a FOAM roller, as you don't want one with any 'nap' to it.

Maybe put acouple drops of Penetrol in it, to help it flow out, and adds to the life of the paint.


don't forget to primer those bare spots, and if any of the rattle can paint doesn't wanna come off, then just leave 'em on and paint right over them!

PICS MAN...we'll need PICS!!!

 

[Clan Graham]

Rolling on X-O Rust is a great way to do this!! Rustoleum is great too.

get yourself a FOAM roller, as you don't want one with any 'nap' to it.

Maybe put acouple drops of Penetrol in it, to help it flow out, and adds to the life of the paint.


don't forget to primer those bare spots, and if any of the rattle can paint doesn't wanna come off, then just leave 'em on and paint right over them!

PICS MAN...we'll need PICS!!!

Well Patrick ... the exterior paint photos will be a few weeks most likely. I now have to figure out how to get this bus prepped for paint, while I am at my weakest point LOL.

 

[ccbreder]

A long time ago I painted a VW bus with gloss interior enamel house paint. I remember the brush I used was very expensive. It was done outdoors on a beautiful June day in South jersey. The whole job turned out very well. I didn't sand, only washed the grime away.

 

[steamjam1]

If the spray paint is just rattle can paint, just run some paint thinner on it and it should remove it rather quick.

What have done in the past is first wash, then with red scotch bright scuff the original paint up pretty good. remove any rust using a mix of 50/50 bottled water and white vinegar. Wash again, use mineral spirits and wipe, tack cloth wipe, then either roll on thinned primer, or spray on etch primer. If your covering up scratches then spray on high build sandable primer, or if you dont care about minor imperfections, skip the high build primer. Skuff lightly with red scotchbright, wipe down with mineral spirits and tack cloth. If spraying, lay down the colour in thin coats.
If roll on (Like me.. makes WAY LESS of a mess) mix with 50/50 acetone and roll on using 2-4 inch foam rollers in several coats spaced several hours apart.. (Less time if hot weather) Lay on final coat. Let dry for a full day.

800 grit paper block sand, then 1500-2000 grit block sand until smooth. polish using normal car polishing compound then wax...

 

[Clan Graham]

If the spray paint is just rattle can paint, just run some paint thinner on it and it should remove it rather quick.

What have done in the past is first wash, then with red scotch bright scuff the original paint up pretty good. remove any rust using a mix of 50/50 bottled water and white vinegar. Wash again, use mineral spirits and wipe, tack cloth wipe, then either roll on thinned primer, or spray on etch primer. If your covering up scratches then spray on high build sandable primer, or if you dont care about minor imperfections, skip the high build primer. Skuff lightly with red scotchbright, wipe down with mineral spirits and tack cloth. If spraying, lay down the colour in thin coats.
If roll on (Like me.. makes WAY LESS of a mess) mix with 50/50 acetone and roll on using 2-4 inch foam rollers in several coats spaced several hours apart.. (Less time if hot weather) Lay on final coat. Let dry for a full day.

800 grit paper block sand, then 1500-2000 grit block sand until smooth. polish using normal car polishing compound then wax...

Hmm ... I am not sure I understand why I would cut the paint with Acetone ?

I would MUCH prefer to cover it with one coat. Sure, that is not the best way, but time is very important, and my health probably prevents me from rolling on 3 or 4 coats.

---

And paint thinner to remove the rattle can spray paint ? Seeing how much spray paint there is on the bus, I would need a 55 gal drum of paint thinner LOL.

 

[steamjam1]

Acetone thins the paint so it rolls on smoothly and reduces the flash time. If you put it all in one thick rustoleum paint coat, it will take weeks of warm weather to fully harden. Thinned with acetone it hardens in days. Usually 2.

Yes oh my, your going to be painting for a while. Id forget stripping anything just rough up remove rust and slap primer on.... paint.

 

[Clan Graham]

Acetone thins the paint so it rolls on smoothly and reduces the flash time. If you put it all in one thick rustoleum paint coat, it will take weeks of warm weather to fully harden. Thinned with acetone it hardens in days. Usually 2.

Yes oh my, your going to be painting for a while. Id forget stripping anything just rough up remove rust and slap primer on.... paint.

Ahh ... good to know about the Acetone. However, should I expect it to still cover in one coat, if I add the Acetone like that ? Thanks

 

[Simran]

My bus was previously painted as well. PINK!!! My sisters all corrected me telling me it is rose colored. To me it is still PINK!!
Mine is peeling badly too but not quite as bad as yours. I'm not sure what to do but whatever it is; it isn't getting done until the inside is done and it warms up some. I've heard of someone painting this liquid sand paper on and just spraying over it. I'm not sure what the long term results would be.
Oh . . .it takes a real man to drive a pink bus; according to my sisters.

 

[steamjam1]

Ahh ... good to know about the Acetone. However, should I expect it to still cover in one coat, if I add the Acetone like that ? Thanks

You prolly won't be able to do it with one coat if you thin the paint out. The only reasons you would thin it is to make the paint roll on and dry smoother and the flash time is greatly reduced.

 

[Clan Graham]

Ahh ... good to know about the Acetone. However, should I expect it to still cover in one coat, if I add the Acetone like that ? Thanks

You prolly won't be able to do it with one coat if you thin the paint out. The only reasons you would thin it is to make the paint roll on and dry smoother and the flash time is greatly reduced.

Hmm ... So if I roll on a single un-thinned coat, this will take weeks to dry ?

 

[Patrick46]

Weeks?? Oh good heavens no!

MONTHS!!!



seriously, most paintjobs will dry to the basic touch in one day. meaning, you can touch it, but don't press into it. The outter skin will be dry, but the paint under the surface will remain soft for acouple days. (depending on the heat & humidity). If it gets cold at night, (and depending on the color), it can blush over, and get a milky look to it.

so, just pick your paint days wisely. Check the forecast. if it looks like rain or cold, try again some other time. And since you're painting such a huge rig, have EVERYTHING ready the night before, all prep work done, and get an early start when you do go for it! (hey, if you finish early, then this'll give the paint time to dry before evening, and you can sit back and enjoy your work!

As for diluting your paint...yes, it'll take acouple coats to get the coverage you want. (you're painting with thinner paint). but since your applying a thinner layer of paint on the bus, the outter layer drys faster, thereby allowing the inner layer of paint to evaporate and dry faster too. Acetone helps the evaporation process along.

One thing, is the primer layer is very important. Did you say you're painting the bus white?? If so, then you must have a good solid neutral base color, otherwise the colors underneith will show through. A good gray primer will neutralise any colors you're trying to hide. (white does not hide anything!) This is why alot of folks do repaints with strong or darker colors...they hide old paintjobs much better.


Sorry brother....you'd might as well paint a battleship with this news!!

 

[Clan Graham]

Weeks?? Oh good heavens no!

MONTHS!!!



seriously, most paintjobs will dry to the basic touch in one day. meaning, you can touch it, but don't press into it. The outter skin will be dry, but the paint under the surface will remain soft for acouple days. (depending on the heat & humidity). If it gets cold at night, (and depending on the color), it can blush over, and get a milky look to it.

so, just pick your paint days wisely. Check the forecast. if it looks like rain or cold, try again some other time. And since you're painting such a huge rig, have EVERYTHING ready the night before, all prep work done, and get an early start when you do go for it! (hey, if you finish early, then this'll give the paint time to dry before evening, and you can sit back and enjoy your work!

As for diluting your paint...yes, it'll take acouple coats to get the coverage you want. (you're painting with thinner paint). but since your applying a thinner layer of paint on the bus, the outter layer drys faster, thereby allowing the inner layer of paint to evaporate and dry faster too. Acetone helps the evaporation process along.

One thing, is the primer layer is very important. Did you say you're painting the bus white?? If so, then you must have a good solid neutral base color, otherwise the colors underneith will show through. A good gray primer will neutralise any colors you're trying to hide. (white does not hide anything!) This is why alot of folks do repaints with strong or darker colors...they hide old paintjobs much better.


Sorry brother....you'd might as well paint a battleship with this news!!

Yuck ... uh uh, no. LOL I plan on simply pressure washing the paint, scuff the paint and remove any rust, wipe down with mineral spirits, and PAINT an udiluted coat of paint. And hope like hell that covers.

 

[ccbreder]

Pressure wash, scrape, brush to get the loose stuff off. Scuff up any glossy areas. Then go for the paint. Brush or roller, the enamel you are talking about will flow out and look ok. Any spots that fail can be repainted using the same paint. I would use some "rust restorer" and primer on the rusty spots. Then paint over it all. You will be surprised at how good the bus will look. Using a roller, and how rough the surface is, I don't think I would thin the paint. I would roll it on like painting a house. Do it when warm if you can.

 

[Clan Graham]

Pressure wash, scrape, brush to get the loose stuff off. Scuff up any glossy areas. Then go for the paint. Brush or roller, the enamel you are talking about will flow out and look ok. Any spots that fail can be repainted using the same paint. I would use some "rust restorer" and primer on the rusty spots. Then paint over it all. You will be surprised at how good the bus will look. Using a roller, and how rough the surface is, I don't think I would thin the paint. I would roll it on like painting a house. Do it when warm if you can.

This is exactly what I have been thinking. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Clan Graham]

Hello all ... I worked with my son on the bus today, and we started the sanding process of prepping the bus. This brought up a couple of questions ....

I sanded with 220 grit, but this seems awfully smooth for new paint to adhere to. Since I am rolling the new paint on, should I consider sanding to maybe 100 grit instead ?

And I need to know if anyone can recommend the most simple way to paint the "skid rails" on the sides of the bus. I circled them in red in this photo :

I am thinking of two ways to do this .... One is to spray paint them, but I do not know how they will look spray painted, next to the rolled on paint. The other option I can see is to brush them on with a soft bristle brush. Any advice here ?


.