Time to paint the exterior ..

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I would use course sanding and un-thinned paint with rollers and good brushes. Just like painting a house.


been there done it turned out good. Only I didn't use rollers, just brushes, warm day good brushes quality paint.
 
Zil said:
I would use course sanding and un-thinned paint with rollers and good brushes. Just like painting a house.


been there done it turned out good. Only I didn't use rollers, just brushes, warm day good brushes quality paint.




?? Brushes you say ? For the entire bus, or just the "scrape rails" , or whatever those are called ? Thanks Zil
 
First, I'd think 220 sounds about right. You just wanna add some 'tooth' for the paint to adhere to, not necessarily teeth!

and for the 'RUB Rails', yeah, I'd use a nice soft, good quality brush on those, but roll the big flat sections.
Paint the rails and cut the windows in first, then roll the big sections afterwords... like Zil sais, it's just like painting a house. (well...this IS gonna be your house after all!) :D

Ask at your local paint counter for a nice brush...and don't forget to clean it throughly when your through each day.
 
If i was to paint a blue bird I would use rollers on the flats. I was painting a VW. Go for it.
 
In the spring I'm going to give Zil's instructions with the rough sandpaper and roller a try.

Zil said:
If i was to paint a blue bird I would use rollers on the flats. I was painting a VW. Go for it.
 
I can't really help with roll on paint, but I paint custom cars and boats for a living (own shop). There are some true auto paints you can roll on (primers and industrial stuff) but are way more $$ than house stuff... If I can help, let me know.
 
Hello MS, And welcome to the forums if I haven't welcomed you before.

I have a box van, it is spray bombed by a previous owner, I'm interested in a true auto paint that can be rolled on. I have experience rolling paint and spraying paint as I also do custom paint and airbrush work. I just don't have access to a large enough booth to paint the box van in.

Please let us know more about this paint, I think it is of interest to many of us. Thanks, Duane
 
I have heard decent things about the Rustoleum enamel out of the can. No activator or reducer. Just start rolling and she hardens on it's own.. I hear it's decent and not too pricey. Industrial paint ( like LIC by Valspar is about $75 a gallon ( for acrylic enamel) with some hardner add another $15, but can be reduced or not to roll on or sprayed ) have personally never rolled it on, but it's pretty thick and with a hardner, is very tough....
 
What do you think about using a hardener with the rustolium type paints ? Have you any experience doing that? Duane
 
I have never used that paint before, but a hardner would definitely help with strength and a high gloss will give a nice sheen, but just remember your on a time frame when you mix it...
Might want to try and look up that on the internet and see if hardner is compatible. I just have not used it personally, so can not give a definite yeah or neah.....
 
MS, Thanks for your honesty on this subject, some times its hard to separate the experience from the "I think this should work". Duane
 
And too much work to take the mistakes back off, to start all over again. BTDT,

Nice flake job on the boat. Have you tried the waterbourn paints ? The old school Oneshot lettering paint has changed, I still have some old stock but its dwindleing, new red just won't last at all.

Thanks, Duane
 
I have stuck with solvent based basecoats... They are going to force me someday ( like CA ) to shoot water base, but until then, why fix what isn't broken :)
 
Wow ! This thread really exploded with some great information. I sure appreciate it too.

But a bit of bad news seems to have appeared ... I decided to start sanding the bus, just to see what I was going to be in for. I thought this was the best approach, but I think I have wasted valuable hours. The white rattle can paint on the bus is most likely oxidized too much to simply paint over and expect good results in the end. Every time I go back over a place it gives up a few more flakes of paint. This is telling me the paint is most likely very poor to expect the new coat to stay on very long. I think the paint underneath will most likely start peeling off, taking the new paint with it ... sigh.

I should have stuck to pressure washing it FIRST I think. I have never once used a pressure washer, but I FEEL like it would most likely take the white paint off of the yellow. This would be the very best possibility, because I imagine the yellow paint is still sticking well. And if nothing else, the pressure washer will at least let me see just how bad the white paint is.

I sure could be wrong about this, but it sure seems iffy to me. I just wish I had eneough experience with paint to know one way or another. Here are some photos of how the paint is reacting to sanding, as this side is now completely sanded below the windows:


Jan3120142_zps24b7801d.jpg



Jan3120143_zps3a8ecc30.jpg



Jan3120144_zps8b8a20a9.jpg



Jan312014_zps6a769dc1.jpg



Does anyone know if the XO Rust paint is as good as the Rustoleum is ?


.
 
I agree with you on using a power washer... That yellow is factory paint and very durable.. Probably like Imron ( industrial paint ). Do you have access to 110 power??? Nowadays they make great dual action 5-6" sanders polishers ( better than air D.A's in my opinion... ) you might be able to rent one???
I'd power wash it real good, hit it with a sander with about 150 grit or so and paint... I have not tried the XO paint, so cannot give any info about it... Sorry....
 
Malibusurfer said:
I agree with you on using a power washer... That yellow is factory paint and very durable.. Probably like Imron ( industrial paint ). Do you have access to 110 power??? Nowadays they make great dual action 5-6" sanders polishers ( better than air D.A's in my opinion... ) you might be able to rent one???
I'd power wash it real good, hit it with a sander with about 150 grit or so and paint... I have not tried the XO paint, so cannot give any info about it... Sorry....


This is just wonderful, having a Professional painter giving advice! I am so grateful. I have never used a sander like that, but do have limited experience with an air D.A. Do you think this would be easier than using a simple sanding block and say, 100 grit ? I don't know how heavy or difficult one would be, while holding it and using it sideways on the bus. Lastly, do you recommend wiping it down with Mineral Spirits after sanding ? Thanks
 
As far as the "rust type paints" they "MAY" have a little more something to fight rust, but I doubt it, it is mostly a marketing ploy, and the consumer is going to pay for the extra advertising that those companies do. I like Fixall brand enamel paints, I'm not sure they are still in business though, I haven't seen their paint in the stores lately.

In my professional opinion; the rust type paints last no longer than the regular paints. Spray bombs or rolled on out of a gallon can paint jobs, are not going to last like a professionally applied automotive type paint. As the old saying goes, "You get what you pay for".
 
Clan, I'm sure a sanding block would work, but wow you've got some serious real estate to sand on!!! A DA would cut your work and sweat time substantially. I use auto "wax and grease remover" before applying any primer or paint just to be sure surface is clean... As a painter I go one step further with a tack rag :)
I agree with signman about paints, and your paint is only as good as your prep no matter what the paint applied.
 
Malibusurfer said:
Clan, I'm sure a sanding block would work, but wow you've got some serious real estate to sand on!!! A DA would cut your work and sweat time substantially. I use auto "wax and grease remover" before applying any primer or paint just to be sure surface is clean... As a painter I go one step further with a tack rag :)
I agree with signman about paints, and your paint is only as good as your prep no matter what the paint applied.


Understood sir ... but with a terminal wife, some corners must be cut.
 
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