The Fat Van

[Gary68]

1977 chinook concourse

 

[Gary68]

Question time
#1
i am going to attempt to remove,clean and reseal the "bladder?"

have new screws and 3m 5200

now should i do a proper exterior bead of 5200 or not


#2
do these water pumps need to be flat or can i mount a piece of plywood on the fender well and mount the pump there?

 

[poncho62]

Build thread....cool.....keep us informed

Dont think it matters how the pump is located...I would keep the pass through part horizontal though.

 

[Almost There]

Question time
#1
i am going to attempt to remove,clean and reseal the "bladder?"


have new screws and 3m 5200

now should i do a proper exterior bead of 5200 or not


#2
do these water pumps need to be flat or can i mount a piece of plywood on the fender well and mount the pump there?

#1 - Why???

# 2 - Shur-Flo says that the pump can be mounted vertically but to make sure that the head is down so that if you've got a water leak from the pump that it doesn't run back in to the motor area.

IMO, you might not want it on the wheel well because you're more likely to get vibration noise from it there as opposed to where it is now. If you do mount it on the wheel well, you're going to want to add some rubber sound deadening material between the pump and the board you mount it on.

 

[LeeRevell]

One of the cuter mini Class C vehicles. Wish they still built these.

 

[B and C]

Glue or epoxy the plywood to the fenderwell and mount your pump to it in any orientation. I would suggest that the water lines be below the electric pump motor to prevent any leaks from causing a pump motor problem.

No ideas on your "bladder". I think you are talking about the trim piece that seals the fiberglass to the metal.

You may want to check into blowby on that motor (compression check). The leaking oil from the intake and valve covers in indicative of a lot of blowby. Blowby is the result of the piston rings not making a good enough seal to the cylinder walls thereby causing combustion gases to pressurize the oil recovery system in not a good way.

 

[Gary68]

#1 - Why???

# 2 - Shur-Flo says that the pump can be mounted vertically but to make sure that the head is down so that if you've got a water leak from the pump that it doesn't run back in to the motor area.

IMO, you might not want it on the wheel well because you're more likely to get vibration noise from it there as opposed to where it is now. If you do mount it on the wheel well, you're going to want to add some rubber sound deadening material between the pump and the board you mount it on.

#1-because the screws are rusty and it is a 40 year old seal and if i do proper job it will last another 40,my #1 concern right now is water proofing,i am innw oregon after all

#2 i planed on using a rubberized goo to mount the plywood to wheel well,if i move the pump i can eliminate the box area it is in and gain a hair more room,every little bit counts

i dont know if i will keep some systems but would hate to get down the road and wish i wouldnt have tore out the bathroom

 

[Gary68]

Glue or epoxy the plywood to the fenderwell and mount your pump to it in any orientation.  I would suggest that the water lines be below the electric pump motor to prevent any leaks from causing a pump motor problem.

No ideas on your "bladder".  I think you are talking about the trim piece that seals the fiberglass to the metal.

You may want to check into blowby on that motor (compression check).  The leaking oil from the intake and valve covers in indicative of a lot of blowby.  Blowby is the result of the piston rings not making a good enough seal to the cylinder walls thereby causing combustion gases to pressurize the oil recovery system in not a good way.

it ran fine,need a tune up,i think its just 40 yo valve cover gaskets.its a 400 and will slowly source a 350 and parts and put my money there

 

[highdesertranger]

as far as the pump goes keep the head as low as possible. my question would be the black lines in the water system, I have never seen black potable water hose. highdesertranger

 

[Almost There]

Good catch there HDR!!

 

[Gary68]

as far as the pump goes keep the head as low as possible.  my question would be the black lines in the water system,  I have never seen black potable water hose.  highdesertranger

i am going to do some minor plumbing in that area so i will replace them with appropriate hose,thanks for the catch

 

[BradKW]

I looks to me that the pieces with the screws you plan to replace aren't actually the primary water seal...maybe they cover it up? Regardless, I definitely wouldn't suggest attempting to lay a bead of 5200 somewhere that aesthetically visible. Unless you have serious caulking skills, on par with a professional Glazier, pulling off a big bead like that with 5200 is a story that probably won't end well.

If I felt it really had to be done, I'd put blue tape on both sides of joint, cut a plastic spatula to size for a single tool pass...have thinner and roll of paper towels handy, and do a practice bead on something...

 

[Matlock]

Product Benefits:
Crack resistant.  Exceptional flexibility.  Excellent adhesion to many surfaces, even when damp.  Ultraviolet resistant.  Resealable; may be applied over itself.  Paintable.  Resists dirt pick-up.  Easily applied, non-stringing formulation.  Tools and cleans up easily.  Cured sealant is mildew resistant.
Limitations:
Do not use on traffic-bearing surfaces.  Do not use on extruded polystyrene insulation sheathing (Styrofoam, etc.), TPO, or EPDM.  Do not use on acrylic skylight glazing surfaces.  Do not use in areas where food is processed or stored. Do not use for potable water applications.
Adheres To:
Aluminum, glass, coated steel (Kynar 500 based finishes), steel, wood, fiberglass, and vinyl.

3M 5200 series works fine but is 4 times the price.  On a RV in that location you want a flexable sealant. Just my ol 2¢ worth.

 

[Gary68]

I looks to me that the pieces with the screws you plan to replace aren't actually the primary water seal...maybe they cover it up? Regardless, I definitely wouldn't suggest attempting to lay a bead of 5200 somewhere that aesthetically visible. Unless you have serious caulking skills, on par with a professional Glazier, pulling off a big bead like that with 5200 is a story that probably won't end well.

If I felt it really had to be done, I'd put blue tape on both sides of joint, cut a plastic spatula to size for a single tool pass...have thinner and roll of paper towels handy, and do a practice bead on something...

yea,i have no idea whats behind it,but looked at the weather report and i have tomorrow then back to rain so i'll have to put a hold on that probably till next spring,good news is heavy rain for a week and no signs of interior leak

 

[Gary68]

Product Benefits:
Crack resistant.  Exceptional flexibility.  Excellent adhesion to many surfaces, even when damp.  Ultraviolet resistant.  Resealable; may be applied over itself.  Paintable.  Resists dirt pick-up.  Easily applied, non-stringing formulation.  Tools and cleans up easily.  Cured sealant is mildew resistant.
Limitations:
Do not use on traffic-bearing surfaces.  Do not use on extruded polystyrene insulation sheathing (Styrofoam, etc.), TPO, or EPDM.  Do not use on acrylic skylight glazing surfaces.  Do not use in areas where food is processed or stored. Do not use for potable water applications.
Adheres To:
Aluminum, glass, coated steel (Kynar 500 based finishes), steel, wood, fiberglass, and vinyl.

3M 5200 series works fine but is 4 times the price.  On a RV in that location you want a flexable sealant. Just my ol 2¢ worth.

ahh_me2 recommended the same stuff for the roof vents so i picked up a tube

 

[ahh_me2]

ahh_me2 recommended the same stuff for the roof vents so i picked up a tube

And I would recommend it here as well!  

 

[Mobilesport]

And I would recommend it here as well!  

Me too , Super good stuff , I mean like really really super good stuff.
What there doing in the adhesive world is amazing., adhesives and the foam technology , solid rivets are pretty cool too

 

[masterplumber]

Nice rig. I haven't tried it with Sika Flex, but to make working a silicone bead much easier I spray denatured alcohol on it and it works like latex caulk. The alcohol evaporates quickly so you just spray the section your doing and keep moving along the bead. Once the alcohol evaporates the silicone cures just like normal. I learned that trick from a granite counter top installer and have used it many times since in showers, windows, etc. You might try it on a test piece to see if it works for you and allows the Sika Flex to cure properly. - sorry, just scrolled back up and saw it was Proflex, but the same principle applies.

Now, when you get ready to do the engine, combine the 400 with a 350 and you get a 383 - one of the best pulling small blocks ever. Just use the 400 crank with the 350 pistons rather than visa versa so the stroke is bigger than the diameter. Of course it requires some machine work and a knowledgeable old school builder, but I've always liked that motor - power, reliability, and better efficiency compared to swapping a big block in. And it bolts right in with no modifications to the original vehicle.

 

[evoscot]

Now, when you get ready to do the engine, combine the 400 with a 350 and you get a 383 - one of the best pulling small blocks ever. Just use the 400 crank with the 350 pistons rather than visa versa so the stroke is bigger than the diameter. Of course it requires some machine work and a knowledgeable old school builder, but I've always liked that motor - power, reliability, and better efficiency compared to swapping a big block in. And it bolts right in with no modifications to the original vehicle.

If he already has a 400 block I would just rebuild that.  A 383 is a 400 crank in a 350 block.

http://www.scroungers.net/t521-chevy-v8-bore-stroke-chart

If you have a 400 that needs a rebuild, rebuild it to a 400.  There is no reason to spend more money to build a smaller motor.

If it were me spending money on a motor I would get a machine shop to drill the steam holes that a 400 requires into a set of cast iron vortec heads and run a manifold like this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-226018 with and Edelbrock 600 carb.

 

[highdesertranger]

I would never depend on a over bored 400 engine. highdesertranger