The Cube, U-Haul to RV camper conversion

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wayne49 said:
What is in the sandwich? I see FRP, then plywood, then I am not sure what is in the middle, then plywood, and FRP.

What are the thicknesses of each inside layer?

Thanks. Interesting build.

One 1/2" sheet of marine grade plywood sandwiched between 2 sheets of FRP (with the smooth sides of the FRP facing out). This is close to, similar, to what was used when the original U-Haul box was built by the Morgan Company.
 
Vagabound said:
To close the loop on my previous comment ... Titebond/Franklin got back to me on my question about using TBIII between plywood and fiberglass reinforced panels (FRP).  I cannot say enough good things about Franklin's customer service (the company behind Titebond).

This is their email reply:

Vagabound

Yes, Titebond Fast Grab FRP Adhesive - 15004056 is the stuff I used. The best part is it washes off your trowel and hands with soap and water.
 
Ballenxj said:
Brad, Thanks for that explanation. So if I want a hard bond, go epoxy, if not, stick with a bonding agent that stays soft?


I'm mostly using Gorilla Glue on joinery, which is polyurethane glue. Polyurethane glues will work on just about all normal materials, porous or not. Wood, metals, rubbers, cured epoxy, leather, tile and glass, many plastics, concrete and brick, the list goes on. It is not as rigid as epoxy, but when clamped properly it is stronger than wood, so not really an issue.

I also use a lot of Sikaflex 221...highly recommend getting a tube and trying it out for yourself.

Epoxy resins are a whole different ball game and there's a lot to know about them and the additives that are often used. They are also expensive. I know enough to be dangerous, so suggest you read up if you're interested...boat building forums are full of information.
 
BradKW said:
I'm mostly using Gorilla Glue on joinery, which is polyurethane glue. Polyurethane glues will work on just about all normal materials, porous or not. Wood, metals, rubbers, cured epoxy, leather, tile and glass, many plastics, concrete and brick, the list goes on. It is not as rigid as epoxy, but when clamped properly it is stronger than wood, so not really an issue.
<--- snip ---->
 I know enough to be dangerous, so suggest you read up if you're interested...boat building forums are full of information.
Boats have to hold up to some harsh environments, especially if they are meant for the ocean, so I imagine one might find some good advice there.
 
Temporarily I've been using the 1lb and 20lb propane bottles and have them clamped to the inside of the box while moving. I want the large tank outside. I could use the rear step bumper for the 20lb BBQ tank or I could make brackets and bolt a horizontal RV specific tank to the frame in the bottom right front side of the truck (pricey).  
If I put a new tank on the frame I'd lose some storage space that I was going to capture.

There is an exterior space that's 10" tall and 37" long x 16" deep that's covered up by the cosmetic trim skirt on the right side of the truck. And I found a hinged RV cover that I can attach to the exterior once I've built an aluminum storage box.
Here's the location
Storage box.jpg
This is the hinged door
Storage door install.jpg
If I buy a horizontal tank for this location I lose the 5,920 cubic inches of storage space and I don't need a box or a door. I'm still waiting on the price for the propane tank for that location. The aluminum box is $88 and door is $75.

I don't know, I can use the space though.
 

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Just be cautious of anything you put underneath as it will reduce your clearance. It's a lot cheaper to dent up that aluminum than it will be to replace that tank.
 
I'll be curious what the price is, I've been thinking about the same thing...just down the list a ways. I hadn't really considered it as a storage trade-off because wherever it's moved from inside will free up space. But putting it under might limit my undermount genny options down the road.

Also, I'm not sure how much the convenience of swappable 20 pounders weighs in, vs having to go to a fill station...
 
Headache said:
Just be cautious of anything you put underneath as it will reduce your clearance.  It's a lot cheaper to dent up that aluminum than it will be to replace that tank.
I agree, my thought is to see if I can find one that will fit without adding any loss to drive height.

BradKW said:
I'll be curious what the price is, I've been thinking about the same thing...just down the list a ways. I hadn't really considered it as a storage trade-off because wherever it's moved from inside will free up space.  But putting it under might limit my undermount genny options down the road.
Also, I'm not sure how much the convenience of swappable 20 pounders weighs in, vs having to go to a fill station...

I've heard back from Manchester Tank and they don't offer an ASME code tank for my designs. I want a 10" or less OD. I have another request in to Worthington Ind. I'll post here when I get their price.
Side note about a swappable 20lb'er on my back bumper. The more I think about it the more sense it makes to me to put a box on my rear step bumper, drill a hole through the back of the box for the hose and manual valve and I'm good. Use the side box for just misc storage.
 
Had the opportunity this past weekend to have this puppy weighed. The GVW (Gross Vehicle Weight) for this truck is 8600LBS. Actual weight is 7080LBS. as it stands with a full 33 Gal of gas.
I need to add 15 Gal of water, a 20LB propane tank, my Truckfridge and food stuff, and I'm down the road for a L O N G trip. With 1520 LBS available I'll easily have 1000LBS available but won't need. I wonder what that translates in MPG's? :cool:
 
I am glad I found this thread as I am looking into one of these exact same vehicles for my build. Do you have any regrets on the choice of vehicle?
 
Maybe you've gotten familiar with how these tanks are measured if you're shopping seriously, but I keep finding totally contradictory dimension information...some list dimensions that would make their lbs capacity impossible. This one has 10" in the specs, maybe you can explain what I'm looking at, dimensions and orientation wise: Manchester Tank 6813 10 x 23 Horizontal 6.9 Gallon Capacity LP Tank

This one I believe falls under the "vertical fill" category, which would mean I'd need to make a box for it: 30 Pound Horizontal Cylinder
 
nicoloyd said:
I am glad I found this thread as I am looking into one of these exact same vehicles for my build.  Do you have any regrets on the choice of vehicle?

Regrets.... None, nope, nada.
I looked at and drove several used Class B RV's, a few long body cargo vans, one high-top van, a shuttle bus and a short bus, also 2 used sprinters that were rebadged Benz products. None of these came close to what I finally determined was a great match for me.

I wanted to spend a maximum out of pocket of $12K finished, driving down the road.
I looked for the mileage to be under 125K, tires less than 3 years old per the date stamp, tranny either recently rebuilt with warranty or that cost factored into the total, new brakes all around (same as tranny) and a clean car fax on crash or claim damage. And I wanted to buy from the original owner. That's why I went to the U-Haul web page for used trucks for sale. I test drove a half dozen before finding the one I bought.

The size is perfect for one person, might be cramped for two unless your part-timing but still lots bigger than a Van. The 6' + finished interior height allows me to stand and walk around some and for me that's everything.

Take your time, define your priorities and look for what most meets your criteria. They make 1000's of these things every year.
 
BradKW said:
Maybe you've gotten familiar with how these tanks are measured if you're shopping seriously, but I keep finding totally contradictory dimension information...some list dimensions that would make their lbs capacity impossible. This one has 10" in the specs, maybe you can explain what I'm looking at, dimensions and orientation wise: Manchester Tank 6813 10 x 23 Horizontal 6.9 Gallon Capacity LP Tank

That tank is LP Products 5.5Gal Van Lp Tank 6813 Manchester Tank, I've learned to never trust a mass merchandizer when they list item specifications. It's either not there or it's not quite correct.  :rolleyes:

I talked with the Manchester rep and he said he didn't have a 10" OD tank that could be filled Horizontally.  I'm still waiting for Worthington Ind to get back to me.
However, my guess is even if I looked at a longer tank,  say 40" x 12"dia  it's still not that much of an advantage over a standard bbq tank.
I'll know more when I hear back from Worthington.
 
Forklift tanks can be filled mounted horizontally, come in aluminum in both 33 and 43 pound sizes, 12" diameter.

Can mount a "remote fill" with bleeder valve so looks like a built-in DOT or AutoGas setup.

Usually needs a vapor service valve/adapter fitted since forklifts run off liquid.

If you don't DIY tank fittings (wise) need to find an experienced old coot not worried about the potential liability nightmare helping you.
 
John61CT said:
If you don't DIY tank fittings (wise) need to find an experienced old coot not worried about the potential liability nightmare helping you.

For now I'm content with the standard bbq tanks. Solar is keeping the bats full so I don't have to run the genny and use propane. Might buy and fit a larger capacity, horizontal tank to the frame rails next summer though, maybe ....
 
tx2sturgis said:
Well I don't see any updates on the interior....

Thanks for the bump.... I can always use the motivation, although I did blow through most of the last year tweaking the living qtrs. The best planning turns sideways once your liv'in mobile for a couple months. Updates and photos forthcoming.... or is that forthwith......?
 
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