Solenoid Going In: Seeking Feedback From the Pros!

[riggyk]

Also, wouldn't it be safer to just drill by the footrests of either driver or passenger area and have the long run just go through the car interior VS running it mostly underneath and trying to pull it up cutely by the aux battery bank? More risk on the underside of the car vs inside no??

 

[SternWake]

end.

I guess my last question for the moment is....can I attach a 4awg wire safely to either the starter battery or the alternator, and leave it tucked to the side for future connection?

 

Pat of the reason that it is difficult to stack another ring terminal on the alternator, as is it is always hot/live and they are protected against being easily shorted out.  Very important to remove battery cable when working on this, as touch the wrench to grounded metal and it can weld itself to it.

So if you have a wire hooked upto the alternator by the mechanics, well i sure as hell hope they would have the smarts to electrical tape the heck out of it and secure it properly so it could not ground out.  That might  cause MAJOR issues.  

If you took power from engine battery, well the fuse should be withing 7 inches of the battery and simply blow.  but even if the fuse does blow, enough time might have passed that something like the engine computer, might lose its magic smoke.

There are a lot of warnings about jumpstarting the newest cars, and not only because of the risk of touching the jumper cables together, but that is a big NONO, as the fuse it to prevent the wires from overheating and melting, it is not fast enough to protect delicate electronics that are not adequately protected.

Whatever cable the mechanics might be able to hook to alternator (+), should be long enough to reach solenoid, wherever you decide to mount it.  While one can use 4awg Butt splices to join 4awg cable, these pretty much require a hydraulic crimper to do properly and will introduce some resistance into the circuit.

 

[MikeRuth]

Nice! Is your setup fully operative and thriving? 

Any reccomendations for trying to tackle this? - Maybe I'll hop in there tomorrow with some mechanic friends and try to get an idea for what the + alternator setup looks like...

I'm still confused here... in this capacity with the direct to alternator does this require a ground and connection to the fuse block at those #10 small studs as well? Or maybe just a ground in conjunction with the house run connection and connection straight into the alternator?

Yes my setup is operative and thriving . 
My solenoid is activated by a manual switch that I have added in the drivers compartment. Power to activate the solenoid comes from house battery positive  and the negative is grounded to the frame right next to the solenoid. BTW I choose to use a safety cap on my switch so I don't turn it on accidentally. I also have a 2 amp fuse in line on the positive to protect that wire, if you go from a fused panel then no need. 
I also choose to make the ground a home run, ie a single fat cable from negative on the house battery to the negative on the starting battery. This assures me I am getting the best possible current from the alternator. 

I can not tell you if you should do this or not, You know your skills, but I will tell you this, from your questions on here I'd highly suggest you at least have someone knowledgeable about Automotive electrical wiring overseeing your work, the last thing you need is a mistake that fry's something or worse. 
As mentioned above when making the new connection to the alternator you need the starting battery disconnected. BE SAFE. 

I know this stuff and yet I have made simple mistakes over the years that burned up a wire, my bad and the worst part is I should have caught my error.

 

[SternWake]

I also choose to make the ground a home run, ie a single fat cable from negative on the house battery to the negative on the starting battery. This assures me I am getting the best possible current from the alternator. 

  Well, technically, it would be better to ground house battery to alternator mounting bolt or alternator casing, or (-) output stud if it exists.

  When house battery is grounded to directly to  engine battery you are relying on the OEM engine battery to engine ground to pass alternator current to house battery. 

 My original engine battery to engine ground wire was 4 gauge SAE, which is 6 to 12% thinner than AWG.  It was in horrible condition in 2003 when I replaced it with white corrosion wicking under the insulation on both ends, and black copper in the middle.

 

[MikeRuth]

  Well, technically, it would be better to ground house battery to alternator mounting bolt or alternator casing, or (-) output stud if it exists.

  When house battery is grounded to directly to  engine battery you are relying on the OEM engine battery to engine ground to pass alternator current to house battery. 

 My original engine battery to engine ground wire was 4 gauge SAE, which is 6 to 12% thinner than AWG.  It was in horrible condition in 2003 when I replaced it with white corrosion wicking under the insulation on both ends, and black copper in the middle.

Indeed you are right SW and that's something I need to do. At the time this was suitable. Just need to get my lazy azz in gear and do that. 
If I recall it seemed more difficult than actually getting the positive on the Alternator. I had to do all that blind, mirror and or photo. theirs no way to actually put eyes on that stud.

 

[SternWake]

You could use a parallel ground cable between engine block somewhat near alternator and engine battery or just move house battery cable to engine from engine battery. I think my oem engine ground used power steering bracket , o. Opposite side of engine than the alternator. But my alternator had has its own ground to cylinder head.

 

[riggyk]

Hi Guys,

So yeah it was fairly easily mounted to the +alternator stud with a wire taped to heck and tucked away to the side. - Going to finalize everything myself from here on, mounting the solenoid to the firewall with a cross ground right at one of the mounting bolts.