Soldering wire

[Seraphim]

I have to splice a #10 wire (aluminum, I assume, from the silver color of the strands) from the solar panels back together.

My original plan included crossing the bare ends, twisting them, then soldering the splice and covering with heat shrink material.

I've acquired a HF hydraulic crimper. What would the pros or cons be of just crimping some type of quick connector on the ends, to join to the sections? It's been a while since I've done any soldering, and that was generally smaller gauge (thinner) wire.

Opinions appreciated.

 

[cdiggy]

I saw a you tube vid of a guy making a combiner box out of this:
http://www.google.com/search?q=atc+...sASc1IL4Bw&ved=0CBwQsxg&biw=320&bih=364&dpr=2
And some kind of ground bar inside a weather proof double gang box. I thought it was pretty cool because you can join up to six panels and going from say one or two panels to three or more becomes easy. Each panel would be on its own fuse (say a 7.5 amp or 10 or 15) which would make it relatively easy to just unplug the panels for whatever maintenance you need to do on the system while it is not hot. And I have never soldered aluminum. I know it can be done and a search using 'brazing aluminum' will return a bunch of results. Anyway, the video of this guys combiner box says you can make it for about $29. After doing YouTube research I was considering this. But I could be completely wrong!

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http://m.delcity.net/store/ATC-and-...=38094426869&gclid=CLaizsjIw8ICFQ4S7AoddVAA0A

Sorry. It is this one.

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https://www.globalelectricalsupply....rk=gdfV29462_a_7c3148_a_7c10018_a_7cGBA2_d_10

And something like this for the ground side.
Inside one of these:
http://www.garvinindustries.com/wea...oxes/wp2g503?gclid=CKLjzpzKw8ICFczm7AodXDIA-g
With the appropriate lid/cover.

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

Don't assume it's aluminum just cause it's silver colored. Marine wire is tinned copper, to prevent corrosion.

Make a fresh cut on one end with a pair of dykes, and examine the cut with a magnifying glass. You'll know right away if it's copper.

Tinned copper wire is expensive. If they used it, it means they probably didn't cut corners elsewhere, either.

Combining aluminum wire and copper in the same circuit can be problematical, due to dissimilar metal corrosion. If they did use aluminum wire to save money, quality of the rest if their system should be suspect.

Regards
John

 

[Seraphim]

Thanks for the quick responses.

Considering the cost of the panel's, I doubt they used tinned copper. I'll check and advise. I'm not going to be mixing the wire type in the circuit - just joining two ends.

I don't think I need to go to the expense of a combined box for a simple splice.

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Interesting

I don't have a magnifying glass, but when I looked at the cut end in the sunlight, I could see the small glints of color change in the the wire, to a coppery color.

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So if I twisted the wires, it should be OK to melt a silver solder over connection?

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Rather like tinning over the entire connection...

 

[Seraphim]

Here's the process on scrap wire:

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Twist one wire:

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Twist the other

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Solder - had to use propane torch

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Any problems with this connection?

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

If it's tinned copper wire, ordinary electronics solder should work just fine, no need for silver solder, though I guess it wouldn't hurt anything to use it.

Regards
John

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Google "Western Union Splice". The BEST way to do an inline splice, bar none. Even NASA used it.

Regards
John

 

[LeeRevell]

Good that it was copper wire. I don't think aluminum can be soldered.....?

 

[Seraphim]

Thanks.

That connection is so tight I can't bend it. Should be safe for about 20 amps, I guess.

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John - that's the splice I used. Learned from my dad as a kid. Never knew it had a name, until now...

 

[ccbreder]

The problem with silver solder, and soldering in general. The hotter the temperature used to solder, the weaker the copper strands become, and then prone to break with vibration. That is why crimped connections are standard in marine, aviation, and automotive applications. A good crimp connector with water proof shrink tube is the way. Get quality connectors and shrink tube, not HF stuff.
This argument about shall we solder or crimp has be going on for a very long time. My trusted experts recommend crimp connections.

 

[cdiggy]

For me the thing is I have to tools to solder but I don't have crimping tools. For me it might just come down to cost.

 

[Seraphim]

What type crimp connectors would work the best?

 

[MikeRuth]

maybe not the best but if used properly certainly going to do the job.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-...lice-Wire-Connectors-50-Pack-75-126/202522634

Mike R

 

[highdesertranger]

well I would consider that repair to be an emergency field fix and I would not have soldered it. for solderless terminals I like noble, tinned copper and made in USA. I like the uninsulated ones then use 3m adhesive lined heat shrink. these crimpers work great on uninsulated terminals. http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-I...7&keywords=solderless+connector+crimping+tool . the one shown here does both insulated and uninsulated you have to make sure it can do the gauge of wire you are working with. the ones I have can do 8-18 gauge uninsulated only. when you crimp with these you must make sure the connector is in the crimper correctly. the connector has a seam that must go in the rounded end of the slot, the solid side of the connector goes to the side with the tit. this is why I like the uninsulated because you can see real easy if you have the terminal correct. highdesertranger

 

[ccbreder]

That is the specification. Tinned copper. Many of the cheaper ones are aluminum.