Choosing Crimp Connectors

[BradKW]

So I just ordered a decent quality crimper based on the DIY guide at http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination

Now I would like to order some connectors, but there's a minor problem...apparently most people who order these sorts of things have some idea what they need and what they're doing. I don't seem to be one of these people    

What I'm hoping to find is a nice assortment package with a variety of terminal types and sizes, and perhaps another assortment of butt splices and heat shrink sleeves. The problem is that I'm going by the articles recommended brands (since I know no differently): "FTZ, Burndy, T&B, AMP, Molex etc. all make good quality insulated and heat shrink crimp terminals" ...and the only assortment packs I've found are the cheapies.

The above crimpers are for "heat shrink terminal crimping" ...and heat shrink sounds like a good idea to me. I don't know if it's needed...I really don't even know if those will work on non-heat shrink terminals. Quite possible I just bought the wrong tool for what I'll end up needing.

Also quite possible I really need to wait till I start wiring, see I need 5x of this and 4x of that and run to West Marine every time. Kinda hope not.

Any advice that might provide some direction to these random thoughts would be appreciated...

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

3M is a good brand.  I went with these as my starter kit:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Shrink-Te...1&keywords=wire+terminals&refinements=p_89:3M

 

[GotSmart]

That is a professional tool for the smaller wire sizes.  For the larger (battery) wires you need a hydraulic crimper. 

https://www.amazon.com/CHIMAERA-Hyd...=1467633442&sr=8-4&keywords=hydraulic+crimper

For terminals you will need 50 of this, and 80 of that. I went to Ace Hardware and bought 100 packs of what I was needing.

 

[speedhighway46]

Home Depot has a nice selection of various sizes and styles of crimp connectors. I use them in the wiring of my Peterbilt Motorhome. Some have been in service for more than five years with no problems. They are of high quality, best as I can tell.

Pick the style connector you need, and then choose the size based upon the wire gauge you are using.

It's easy to buy a large "assortment" of connectors very inexpensively. However, they are usually Chinese junk and not worth your time. My opinion is to avoid them.

Enjoy your wiring experience . . . One of my most favorite activities! Take your time and document every single wire for future reference.

 

[ccbreder]

Heat shrink ends are not found in Lowes, Home Depot, or most hardware stores. You are in Florida? Find a marine supply, or online from the likes of Genuine Deal z. You will be better served buying individual packs and making up your own assortment to match the wire, up to 10 awg, you plan to use. Read the whole post from Maine Sail. As you don't need many cables over 10 awg, order custom battery cables from GenuineDealz.

 

[jimindenver]

That's a cute little crimp tool but the largest gauge it will handle is the pig tail on the back of your solar panels. you gonna be needing bigger there young man.

I picked up a 16 ton hydraulic crimp tool off of ebay for $30 or $40. It will do up to 4/0 even though I'm using 1/0. Lugs at that size are expensive and don't come in a assortment. It's best to know what size wire and how many before starting.

Getting a assortment usually means too few of what you need and a lot of what you don't. The rest cost money and take up space because somedayyyyy. Wire your small stuff with one appropriate gauge, it will make life simpler. They do make sense for like when I walked into a job and didn't know what I needed.

This is the crimping tool. It was suppose to be a 12 ton and I bet a 8 ton would do if it had the right sized dies.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/16-Ton-Hydr...546165?hash=item3d0ac2d6b5:g:gnwAAOSwwE5WYFMa

These are the 1/0 lugs. I still need some pin lugs for the controller, inverter and such. Those are even more money and I won't be buying extras.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...0.A0.H0.X1/0+lugs.TRS0&_nkw=1/0+lugs&_sacat=0

 

[johnny b]

I get my stuff from Elecdirect.com. Bought the $39 ratchet crimp tool for heat shrink terminals...works great. [RAT-HS]

This is good quality stuff, plus when using heat shrink terminals you'll never have to cut apart your wires to install the heat shrink tubing you 'forgot' to put on (we've all done that!). Although I still put tubing on some splices with these for double security in wet conditions.

I went this route after watching several karting buddies have issues with the spade connector to the ignition coil on the Honda 125. The wire would break right at the crimp point due to the vibration. The HS terminals 'support' the wire just behind the crimp...problem solved!


http://www.elecdirect.com/crimp-wire-terminals/heat-shrink-terminals

http://www.elecdirect.com/media/specsheets/29.pdf

 

[SternWake]

One issue I find with the kits, is that I use the Quick disconnects, and the ring terminals,  and butt connectors, then carry around a bunch of connectors I will likely never use, and not have any of the connectors I do need.

I really dislike the plastic/nylon colored insulation, and the crimpers for these are different than those intended for crimping with no insulation.  In general I try and order terminals I know I need or will need, and without the insulation, if available.

If I can't get them without the insulation, or I have to buy locally, I cut it off, and use heat shrink tubing instead

I do not really do small wire crimp terminations as supposed to, as I bend the folds into the wire with the dimple crimp, then move the dies to compress further, and all 'correct' methods says I am doing this backwards.  I started doing it this way trying to replicate factory looking crimps, and just kept with it even after I learned I was doing it wrong.

Obviously my way can be screwed up easily and yield a poor result, if done badly. So, I don't do it badly.

  Things designed to be idiot proof, always seem to be a compromise when one is not an Idiot.

I mostly use butt connectors, ring terminals, and quick connects.
I usually do not have the perfect connector on hand, or perhaps just do not remember those times when I do as it does not cause a curse fest.

I think Ancor connectors are basically the benchmark in quality.

https://www.amazon.com/Ancor-Nylon-..._UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=C9AH3TP213QJX03PRS0E

 Buying the ones designed for crimping through the insulation or having the heatshrink through the insulation is not high on my list though.  Personal preference.

I've taken to wasting time by removing insulation, dimple crimping it 180 degrees off, and covering the crimp and any exposed copper ends with solder, wiping off all flux residue with rubbing alcohol and a Q tip then heatshrinking.  Obviously much more time consuming than stuffing wire into an insulated connector and using a ratcheting idiot proof crimper on them.

The difference, would likely only be noticeable in 10+ years in a salt air environment.

Now if I were trying to make money doing electrical work I would just get the idiot proof tools and terminals and make em look purdy, and make all wire terminations in 1/10th the time.

 

[highdesertranger]

nowadays I do like stern and get the bare terminal then heat shrink. Noble is a good brand of terminals and you can't beat 3M heat shrink. stay away from the cheap terminals. take a magnet with you and see if the terminals stick, if they do run. highdesertranger

 

[DannyB1954]

Doing marine work we would crimp and also solder the end of the wire to the crimp., (helps keep moisture from wicking it's way up the wire). we also used a lot of liquid tape. I just bought some at home Depot.

 

[ccbreder]

I wanted to avoid the solder v crimp debate. I worked building million dollar yachts for more than one famous builder. They all used crimped connections, and no, it was not to save time and money. The cheap hydraulic crimping tools on ebay and others are metric, even thou they claim awg. Magnets don't stick to the aluminum terminals. Know your supplier.