SternWake
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- Nov 30, 2013
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I'd recently came back across them and figured I'd return them to some type of service. I liked these as the contacts are well hidden by the plastic on the clamps.
They were quite dirty and oxidized. The Jaws are copper clad steel, at least I think it is steel, Did not have a magnet handy, but definitely copper clad something. Only one jaw was electrically live, So I ran 10 awg wire to the other Jaw as well, so at the minimum there is at least two points that the jaws grab the battery post, likely 4 or maybe 8.
Here on the right, one can see the ground clamp. Not so pretty. The red clamp on the left started out in that condition.
The screws were holding the ring terminals to the jaws in the above photo, so I unscrewed them and decided to practice soldering something larger. I used a dremel with wire wheel to clean the jaws better and used a wood dowel to hold the ring terminal tightly to the jaw. lots of rubbing alcohol on a q tip, and then slathered it with flux, on the wood dowell too.
I also recrimped the factory crimp with my hydraulic crimpers and covered the exposed stranding with solder too.
My 140 watt soldering gun was not powerful enough, I needed a small butane torch to get it hot enough for the solder to suck under the ring terminal.
The 10 awg was just the home depot 10-2 landscape lighting cable, so it was not the best choice in the flexibility or heat resistance departments.
But Mainly I was wanting to try out the dowel trick I read about.
I put some 45 amp anderson powerpoles on these. The cables seem a bit more than 10 awg, but certainly not 8awg. Perhaps 8 sae gauge or just whatever China felt like throwing on this jumper pack my dad gave me in 2001.
Anyway these clamps originally were on a small schumacher jumper pack that had a ub12120 AGM battery, 12AH. I plan on using these clamps when I use my Meanwell rpsp-500-15 as a portable charging source. I have another set of clamps with 8awg and 45amp Powerpoles. I could join them for a short set of jumper cables, but I would not use them to jump a car, well not quickly anyway. Lots of cheapo jumper cables only have 10 or 8 awg wire, sometimes they are copper clad aluminum too. I;d prefer to not melt the powerpoles trying to use them like regular jumper cables, but I would use them to parallel the batteries and transfer upto 45 amps for 10 or 15 minutes before trying to start the jumpee vehicle. I have a 10 foot long 10 awg extension cord with 45 amp PP connectors, so I could have a weak pair of 'jumper cables' about 14 feet long.
Anyway, if you got a set of jumper cables, have a look where the wire joins the Jaw/ Clamp. They might be poorly crimped or badly corroded and not work very well when needed. If they are plastic clamps with just metal jaws to grab the battery post, see if there is a little cable hooking the Metal jaws together electrically. The jaws are supposed to bite into the soft lead of battery terminals and make good contact, but more modern battery post clamps are harder metal and clamp jaws might only achieve limited surface area resulting in a poor electrical connection
They were quite dirty and oxidized. The Jaws are copper clad steel, at least I think it is steel, Did not have a magnet handy, but definitely copper clad something. Only one jaw was electrically live, So I ran 10 awg wire to the other Jaw as well, so at the minimum there is at least two points that the jaws grab the battery post, likely 4 or maybe 8.
Here on the right, one can see the ground clamp. Not so pretty. The red clamp on the left started out in that condition.
The screws were holding the ring terminals to the jaws in the above photo, so I unscrewed them and decided to practice soldering something larger. I used a dremel with wire wheel to clean the jaws better and used a wood dowel to hold the ring terminal tightly to the jaw. lots of rubbing alcohol on a q tip, and then slathered it with flux, on the wood dowell too.
I also recrimped the factory crimp with my hydraulic crimpers and covered the exposed stranding with solder too.
My 140 watt soldering gun was not powerful enough, I needed a small butane torch to get it hot enough for the solder to suck under the ring terminal.
The 10 awg was just the home depot 10-2 landscape lighting cable, so it was not the best choice in the flexibility or heat resistance departments.
But Mainly I was wanting to try out the dowel trick I read about.
I put some 45 amp anderson powerpoles on these. The cables seem a bit more than 10 awg, but certainly not 8awg. Perhaps 8 sae gauge or just whatever China felt like throwing on this jumper pack my dad gave me in 2001.
Anyway these clamps originally were on a small schumacher jumper pack that had a ub12120 AGM battery, 12AH. I plan on using these clamps when I use my Meanwell rpsp-500-15 as a portable charging source. I have another set of clamps with 8awg and 45amp Powerpoles. I could join them for a short set of jumper cables, but I would not use them to jump a car, well not quickly anyway. Lots of cheapo jumper cables only have 10 or 8 awg wire, sometimes they are copper clad aluminum too. I;d prefer to not melt the powerpoles trying to use them like regular jumper cables, but I would use them to parallel the batteries and transfer upto 45 amps for 10 or 15 minutes before trying to start the jumpee vehicle. I have a 10 foot long 10 awg extension cord with 45 amp PP connectors, so I could have a weak pair of 'jumper cables' about 14 feet long.
Anyway, if you got a set of jumper cables, have a look where the wire joins the Jaw/ Clamp. They might be poorly crimped or badly corroded and not work very well when needed. If they are plastic clamps with just metal jaws to grab the battery post, see if there is a little cable hooking the Metal jaws together electrically. The jaws are supposed to bite into the soft lead of battery terminals and make good contact, but more modern battery post clamps are harder metal and clamp jaws might only achieve limited surface area resulting in a poor electrical connection