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Your best solution is to sell the shuttle bus for what you paid, and get a school bus. All the room you could possibly want on the roof for solar and can handle any amount of weight you want for batteries, water and generator. Instead of struggling with everything you want to do, it will laugh at it and say, "Is that all you've got." :p

If you stay with the shuttle, here is a very good solution for not enough room on the roof for solar:

doug-panels-deployed.jpg



doug-ring.jpg


A friend of mine bought a used trailer and found out the roof wasn't solid enough for solar, so he hangs his four, 200 watt panels off the edge like you can see in the picture. You can see the whole post here giving details on how they hang and how he carries them inside:

http://www.cheaprvliving.com/blog/ingenuous-solar-power-system/
Bob
 
Well there you go Bob, side panels work and I really like the way they have a double advantage. 1) The panels can easily be tilted to the most efficient angle increasing power output. 2) They act as an awning and shade your southern exposure (okay only an advantage in summer months ;?). So if I used the Sunmodule SW 275W Monocrystalline Solar Panel (measuring 40"x 66"), I could fit 4 on the roof and hang another 4 off the sides, that would give me around 2200 watts, does that sound like enough?:angel:

Btw I appreciate the link, your friend has a pretty cool blog and good info, like the url to Altstore.com who carry the Sunmodule (can't believe the price on those 275w panels ;?). Oh and love the promotional video for these, AMAZINGLY well made, just what the doctor ordered for permanently mounted side panels. Here's the vid for those who haven't seen it :cool::cool::cool:

[video=youtube]
 
Fearnoevil said:
Well there you go Bob, side panels work and I really like the way they have a double advantage. 1) The panels can easily be tilted to the most efficient angle increasing power output. 2) They act as an awning and shade your southern exposure (okay only an advantage in summer months ;?). So if I used the Sunmodule SW 275W Monocrystalline Solar Panel (measuring 40"x 66"), I could fit 4 on the roof and hang another 4 off the sides, that would give me around 2200 watts, does that sound like enough?:angel:

Btw I appreciate the link, your friend has a pretty cool blog and good info, like the url to Altstore.com who carry the Sunmodule (can't believe the price on those 275w panels ;?). Oh and love the promotional video for these, AMAZINGLY well made, just what the doctor ordered for permanently mounted side panels. Here's the vid for those who haven't seen it :cool::cool::cool:

[video=youtube]


Just remember, you will have to store them when driving or the weather sucks. I saw that link long ago, great idea for a boost if you have the room to store them the rest of the time. Were I to go that route, I may just look into a wind turbine provided I could find a dependable one, that would at least not have you helpless at night or on cloudy days.
 
Ahh, but Tucson, that's what the earlier quote I put up from the guy who actually has them hard-mounted to the side of his RV talked about. He didn't seem to have any problems, even mentioned being exposed to a storm in Nebraska with really high winds and they stayed in place.

"I was in Nebraska in May and June and was hit by 100mph gusts with no effect. I did worry about hail, but it was raining to hard. Got lucky about the size of the hail (dime-sized)
-On Oregon's coast what's seen as a extremely windy day seems to me like a normal summer afternoon in the plains states. *grins*
I even drive with them extended -just far enough to re-aim them towards the sun of course! *grins again*."


I'll admit I was worried about them being damaged by occasional impacts from road debris, but when you watch that video seems to me there's not a problem with leaving them exposed to the elements. That Sunmodule took hits from good size chunks of ice at over 200 mph, baseballs and even trucks driving over them, so I'm not worried about leaving them permanently mounted. Just need to make sure the lock-down system is well-made and foolproof (okay as foolproof as possible cuz there's always a fool out there who'll find a way to screw up anything, lol). Also I'd switch to the passenger side, less exposure to rocks and ***** tossed at you from oncoming traffic.

The way I'd design it would to attach the panel frames to the upper deck/rack with heavy duty piano hinges. Then on the lower part of the body, lined up with where the bottom of the frames would hang, I'd install a track, maybe c-channel, and the frames would have a dual system, a twist lock mechanism this would apply pressure to hold them tight and prevent rattling (rubber stops should help), then a secondary set of stainless ball lock pins just in case these came loose. Should work fine imo, what do you think?:p


Also, I've been a BIG fan of wind turbines for a long time, especially since where I live something like 20% of the states power is from wind (helps to live in Tornado Alley, lol). BUT, the more I've studied the more I become less of a fan of wind power for home/personal use. Largely because of the cost to benefit ratio, not really very good in much of the country much of the time. Of course there are exceptions, but you really need some good strong wind to really see significant power generation, especially with those small units (just cuz the blades are turning doesn't mean it's doing anything meaningful). Plus while on a windy day you could park up on that ridge over here and generate some power, it's probably going to be a lot more comfy down here in this draw sheltered from that pesky, chilly wind, know what I mean?

But again, it depends on where you live, and I have thought of it, especially if I spend a lot of time on the coastal areas of the northwest I might seriously consider it. Bet you get some pretty steady winds during a good part of the year there. Anyone here have any XP hauling one of those around the country, setting it up in different locals? Best guess fall and winter would give you the most benefit, and I suppose even a small amount could help augment the decrease in solar power (or just head south, lol). But that's also one reason I'm serious about looking into adding tilting mechanisms to my roof-top solar - if you can pick up a 30%- 60% increase in output, depending on where you're at latitudinally (think that's correct), it would be a better investment than a small wind turbine, imo.
 
The problem I see with leaving them mounted to the wall is they SCREAM:

"Steal Me!!"

"Smash Me!!"

Not a great message!

2200 watts is going to need 20 batteries weighing 1200-1500 pounds and taking up a lot of room. 65 gallons of water is 500 pounds. The panels are probably close to 400 pounds.

Lot's of weight. Better make sure it is distributed all around the bus.
Bob
 
Ahh, I need more batteries?? I thought if I got more panels it would just recharge the existing batteries more quickly, lol. So watts produced by the panels have to somehow match up to the amp capacity of the batteries? As for thieves, I could use special screws and/or a mix of rivets to make it more difficult, plus security cameras (good fake ones are often a decent substitute as a deterrent), that and being careful where you park, especially when there's no neighbors to help. Also roger on the weight distribution, one reason I moved the battery bank towards the front, but that passenger side does seem to carry a greater amount of the load. Maybe offset it some by putting the deck's storage area on the driver side and use the right side for the fun stuff, rather than front/back split as planned. Yep still got some kinks to work out....
 
akrvbob said:
The problem I see with leaving them mounted to the wall is they SCREAM:

"Steal Me!!"

"Smash Me!!"

Not a great message!

2200 watts is going to need 20 batteries weighing 1200-1500 pounds and taking up a lot of room. 65 gallons of water is 500 pounds. The panels are probably close to 400 pounds.

Lot's of weight. Better make sure it is distributed all around the bus.
Bob

Yeah, this would be my concern too not to mention it doesn't really scream "stealth" to the world which you may not care about anyway. I made sure my panels couldn't be seen in any way, actually left 2 panels off the roof just to avoid anything overhanging.

The battery bank rule is one ah per watt but it's more important you have enough solar to charge the bank than it is you having a large bank you never fully charge which is super common.

I have 2 watts per ah because I want to know for fact my bank will be at a 100% soc by noon no matter where I'm sitting. I don't want to deal with days my bank never gets filled and this allows me to use more power with the sun up and know what I'm getting into for the night. You would be fine with a 1,000 ah bank and I would go with eight 6v batteries for a 48v system if it were me.

You're in an E-450 which I think has a 14,000 GVRW, you should be okay but you are talking about A LOT of weight and space with all the supporting hardware you'll need as well. And cost, man, you are into a $3,000 plus system even if you deal hunt like a mad man and fabricate/install it all yourself.
 
Thanks a lot Tucson that really helps! :cool:

So at 2w per ah, I'd need 2kw of solar panels for a 1000 ah bank, which makes for a nice round number. That Sunmodule brand has a 250w panel that's perfect - works out to 8 panels to 8 batteries, and is the cheapest per watt I've seen so far at $245 or just $0.98 a watt (still some serious green tho, sheesh ;?).

Would I be correct in assuming that if the 8 batteries totals a 1000 ah bank, that each battery is rated at at least 125 ah? I'm not sure if these things add up linearly or not.:huh: And to have a 48v system, they are daisy-chained in series (not parallel), if I remember correctly, and with a 48v system can I run that directly into a 110v inverter (it has to be rated for 48v???), and then if I need 12v power in the rv I'd need a converter of some kind right?

What if I wanted to start a little smaller, say 6 panel/6 batteries to see if that meets my needs, but that would mean only a 36v system. Do the inverter and charge controller have to be specifically for 36v or can I go with 48v rated for one or both in case I want to expand later? Sorry for all the questions, lol, but this is not coming easily to me. Seems this old brain of mine doesn't want to learn new stuff, but I figure it's cuz I know so much that there's just no room left to put anything else ;?)
 
Also you are correct on the GVWR, a skosh over 14k lbs. Roach did a conversion on a similar vehicle, did a really nice job, and his curb weight after the conversion was just under 12k lbs so I figure I've got another couple thousand lbs to play with before I get close (really need to get this beast weighed before I start the build process). That doesn't mean my mpg's won't be down near 7 when I get done, lol, so I will be keeping an eye on that curb weight. I plan to do much of the interior framing with metal studs and sheet metal to stiffen where possible to avoid plywood, but there's still a couple of bulkheads that will need some 3/4" or heavier, and the deck, solar racks, porch and overhang are going to eat up a lot. I know it's just a guesstimate at this point, but my goal is to keep the total to under 13,500 lbs. fully loaded, pero vamos a ver, eh :angel:
 
Fearnoevil said:
Thanks a lot Tucson that really helps! :cool:

So at 2w per ah, I'd need 2kw of solar panels for a 1000 ah bank, which makes for a nice round number. That Sunmodule brand has a 250w panel that's perfect - works out to 8 panels to 8 batteries, and is the cheapest per watt I've seen so far at $245 or just $0.98 a watt (still some serious green tho, sheesh ;?).

Would I be correct in assuming that if the 8 batteries totals a 1000 ah bank, that each battery is rated at at least 125 ah? I'm not sure if these things add up linearly or not.:huh: And to have a 48v system, they are daisy-chained in series (not parallel), if I remember correctly, and with a 48v system can I run that directly into a 110v inverter (it has to be rated for 48v???), and then if I need 12v power in the rv I'd need a converter of some kind right?

What if I wanted to start a little smaller, say 6 panel/6 batteries to see if that meets my needs, but that would mean only a 36v system. Do the inverter and charge controller have to be specifically for 36v or can I go with 48v rated for one or both in case I want to expand later? Sorry for all the questions, lol, but this is not coming easily to me. Seems this old brain of mine doesn't want to learn new stuff, but I figure it's cuz I know so much that there's just no room left to put anything else ;?)

This is all "debatable" so let's say it like there's a scale from 1-10, 1 being it just won't work and 10 being the ideal.

So in this case, systems are normally sized in 12v, 24v, 48v and 36v while possible is just skipped. If your panels you will need an MPPT charge controller anyway and most should take a higher input voltage, mine does 150v max, the higher voltage helps with voltage drop in the wiring and is nice to have. I did 24v grid tie panels like you're wanting to do, 3 banks of 2 so 48v into the cc and a 24v bank. I would have done 3 banks of 2 but in a mobile situation and dealing with shading I didn't want to have one panel with 10% shade on it and end up with an 80% output drop from 3 panels so I opted for 2 in series.

As a rule, you want to avoid parallel connections so do it in a way that keeps them to a minimum, say two and the rest in series.

Inverters can be had in 24v and 48v, they're far more efficient and happier with the higher input. A 1.2v drop in a 12v system is huge, 10% or 50% of the actual usable voltage range whereas in a 48v system it's 2.5% or 12.5% of the working voltage range.

Lighting, fans, inverter, you can do everything on 24v without troubles. You can get a step down for things that you need the 12v for and, you get to keep the two systems completely separate of each other which I see as a HUGE advantage.
 
Iam currently doing a lot of research for an off grid system
it will be 4*250 watt panels ,Midnite Solar 150 charge controller and a 24 volt battery system probably fork lift style battery
what I am looking for is a battery charger for the 24 volt system to run off a 2000 watt quiet generator.
THanks
Roy
 
There are many advantages to 24 volt systems, but a couple of big disadvantages. The first is a much smaller assortment or parts and accessories. The second is that there are nowhere near as many people who are knowledgable about it.

I wish I could help you but I know so little about 24 volt I can't. If you ask about 12 volt then I can.
Bob
 
I am looking to have a back up charging system should i be in a part of the country that does not have high sunshine hours currently i am in Auburn WA and in two weeks we have only had a couple of days that were not overcast
I am looking at 750 amp/hr battery that will give me 2-3 days of autonomy for when there is a lack of PV power, I chose 24 volts as its a bit more efficent for long wiring runs ,most of my cooking and heating will be by propane and thermal Mass heating via woodburner ,i am currently only researching but will be looking within the next couple years for a small piece of property and my own built Tiny house / tool shed .
Thanks
Roy


Just found this charger has a lot of very good reveiws

http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-G26000-B...ie=UTF8&qid=1413587004&sr=8-1&keywords=g26000
 
while I have no experience with a 24v system. most of your major companies that make chargers make 24v chargers, marine too. just do a search. do you want a portable or a permanently mounted one. highdesertranger
 
That's pretty much just what I have, a little more solar, a little less battery but otherwise the same setup. I had very few issues in your area last month with flat mounted panels but winter is coming so I can understand your desire for a backup. I would just do a little searching, they should be all over the place. You will also be very very happy with the 24v system, 12v is great for a very small system but there is no way you want to do 1,000 watts on a 12v battery bank. Kim over at Midnite Solar was pushing me to do a 48V bank with 72V in from the panels, I would have entertained that but I really wanted three banks instead of two in case of partial shading. I had zero troubles finding anything I wanted in 24V from case fans to pumps and it allows for direct DC charging of things like a laptop. You won't find a DC fridge or nice MP3 car stereo but what you gain from 24v will more than make up for any loss of using a 24v-12v step down if you need to. I actually just ran all of my 12v off of a 5a wall wart I found at Goodwill.
 
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