Sikaflex...or?

[abnorm]

There's another "solvent" to break-the-bond (not dissolve) of poly's/construction adhesive/foam/silicone....I used the gel in a squirt bottle now it's sold as a spray........

http://liftoffinc.com/caulk-foam-sealant-remover/

And here's a one-part wood hardener from Minwax for soft punky wood

http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-hardener

And the companion wood filler.....basically a white waterproof "bondo" from Minwax

http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-filler

I own a 100 yr old bungalow that I'm preparing for sale......I need ALL the tricks and products to keep OLD looking good

 

[Vagabound]

Dissolve (not break the bond). So, there!  

Tom

 

[VanKitten]

I have been looking at Gripset.

I really want to try their products. As I start to rebuild the floor...I think this is just the ticket

The fact that it is a non-solvent bitumen makes it attractive.

Anyone know anywhere in the USA to get it? how about anything similar?

As I lay a new floor, I want it water proof from below.

 

[Vagabound]

I have been looking at Gripset.  

I really want to try their products.   As I start to rebuild the floor...I think this is just the ticket

The fact that it is a non-solvent bitumen makes it attractive.  

Anyone know anywhere in the USA to get it?     how about anything similar?

As I lay a new floor, I want it water proof from below.

Again, situations may be different, but I waterproofed from above the existing floor because I will put another floor on top of that one. 

The box truck has a wood plank floor. If you crawl under the truck, you can see the wood planks as you look up. I think they're 2x6. In any case, after cleaning the floor on top very well, I caulked all the cracks between the planks, and then painted the floor with a very thick deck paint. And that's all I'm going to do to seal the floor. On top of that, I'll put foam board and plywood.   The underside of my original floor is roughly 3 feet above the ground. Other than from tire splash back, I think it's pretty safe from moisture even coming into contact with the underside of the floor.

How does that compare with your plan?

Tom

 

[VanKitten]

Again, situations may be different, but I waterproofed from above the existing floor because I will put another floor on top of that one. 

The box truck has a wood plank floor. If you crawl under the truck, you can see the wood planks as you look up. I think they're 2x6. In any case, after cleaning the floor on top very well, I caulked all the cracks between the planks, and then painted the floor with a very thick deck paint. And that's all I'm going to do to seal the floor. On top of that, I'll put foam board and plywood.   The underside of my original floor is roughly 3 feet above the ground. Other than from tire splash back, I think it's pretty safe from moisture even coming into contact with the underside of the floor.

How does that compare with your plan?

Tom

The underneath side looks like sheet metal.   But, there are many holes where various cabling was put thru.   Sure enough...rot everywhere those holes are.

So.. the plan is...take the wood out...in sections (don't want to do the whole floor all at once).  Put in aluminum sheet...then gripset (or some waterproof membrane) followed by new sub floor...plywood with framing for the insulation and the finish floor.     

I have used other bitumen membranes for underneath showers where I tiled....I know they are forgiving because they have so much flex and give to them.   (Side benefit is sound insulation) 

I found strataflex...looks like I can order it here in the USA...so I'll go with that.

 

[BradKW]

As I lay a new floor, I want it water proof from below.

I used to work for a contractor who kept sending me to diagnose roof leaks for his roofing crew, even though I would always tell him I'm not a roofer. He would say there are only two things needed to find and fix leaks... "You must think like a raindrop, and you must be smarter than a raindrop...and you are the only one I have who qualifies." 

There was this leak in a commercial warehouse that I just couldn't figure out, fixing something different every time I was sent back, and every time having it still leak next heavy rain. Everyone was sick of it, boss was being an a-hole, etc etc. I finally fixed it and boss asked what finally worked? I told him I had to waterproof it from below. He just kinda gave me an odd look and moved on...

It wasn't until over a year later that he learned that I used zip ties to hang a gutter inside, catch the drip, and drained it through a hole I punched through the wall  

Anyway, that Strataflex is overkill for what you're doing...it's something like what we use for patio roof decks that get tiled. You could use any of the self-stick water/ice shields for 1/2 the cost, or even heavy tar paper would serve. 

Keep in mind that you won't be preventing water from getting in from below (gravity generally takes care of that), but you might create a situation where water from above can't escape and ends up trapped in between the floor layers...

 

[VanKitten]

Thank you for that idea. I had not considered the water from above getting trapped. Since I could see the holes thru the sheet metal lined up exactly with the subfloor rot....it was a conclusion, and hence that was the problem I set out to solve. Still need to close that. Either by closing the holes or protecting what is above it from the water.

 

[VanKitten]

Oh...also..I have been reading about fairing compound. It is supposed to be easy to sand, and paint over. For fiberglass and I see they have a compound for aluminum too. How did you decide to close those holes in the side? Sanding? Painting?