RV vs camper/trailer opinions wanted

Khaosinc · May 28, 2011

I'm looking for opinions/experiences on the pro's vs con's of going mobile with a motorhome vs a truck/trailer combo.  I've come to the conclusion I can't go much smaller than this mostly because I have 3 dogs (2 are over 75 pounds) that will be coming with me.  Most likely I will have an off grid 'home base' in Northern CA, (not where I live now) but I intend to spend most of my time wandering. Currently I have a newer  4 door long bed Dodge truck w/ low miles (and no payments) and it seems to me that keeping a rig I like and just pulling a good sized trailer would be the easiest and cheapest option, but with a 20+' truck and good sized (say 20' living space) trailer, being 50' or longer would make getting in and out of places a pain, plus my truck is not a diesel. The other option would be a trading the truck on a late 90's early 00's Motorhome.   that I could have a larger living area but lose the ability to 'park' the trailer and go off exploring the area. My other consideration is that I have difficulty walking any real distance so being able to park where I can get to things or set up is a concern. Anyone have experiences to share on this?

Guest · May 29, 2011

Have you considered a slide in truck camper? I have a friend who fulltimes in his Lance and loves it...wouldn't trade it for anything but a newer truck...<img src="https://vanlivingforum.com/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" align="absmiddle" border="0"> Bri

Khaosinc · May 29, 2011

I have thought about a cab over/slide in. I had one for a few years until I misjudged a low tree branch while camping up in Mt Baker nat. forest. Originally that is what I was leaning towards, however with the dogs I am concerned that I wouldn't have enough room to move around with the dogs.

Guest · May 29, 2011

Good point...I see the dilemma.... Bri

Seraphim · Jun 16, 2011

What percentage of the time will you be on the road? Constant driving argues in favor of a motorhome. Setting in spot for long periods of time argues the pull behind. Trailers with 'toy hauler' capability offer a nice arrrangement for sequestering the dogs, when necessary or desired.  Some offer a six foot space behing the living area. Good as a wet area if you're an outdoors person or for carrying bikes, motorcycles, as well, if you wish a less expensive mode of transportaion in addition to the pulling motor unit.

Khaosinc · Jun 16, 2011

It's hard to say as its more going to be dependant on gas orices and having anywhere to go. I'm leaning towards the 'toy hauler' style camper that's somewhere around 20'.  Now if I can find one for a reasonable price.

Seraphim · Jun 23, 2011

If you're going to park it for a length of time, the trailer has some homey advantages. It can feel less boxy, and you don't have to unhook it from a power or water source since you can drive the towing vehicle.  A motorhome can be pulled in and out of a location quickly - doesn't have to be hooked and unhooked from a towing vehicle. If you  pull a small vehicle, your daily driving will be cheaper because a compact gets better gas mileage than a truck designed to tow a trailer. Hence, my question about how long you plan to stay in one spot. A class A will get about the same mileage as as truck pulling a 5th wheel or a similarily sized class C (8-10 mpg). A smaller truck pulling a smaller trailer will probably get a bit better (12-15). The average Class B proably gets 15 to 20: mine gets 12 to 15 because I have a very high top which increases wind resistance. A B has less living space, but is quite doable. You can pull a small 'toad', but the advantage of the B is it's equipped like a small home, but still fits in spots - like parking lots - where one might have trouble with an A, C or pulling a trailer. A's are expensive to purchase and maintain. C's are maintained more like regular vans, and Bs even more so. Might need a specialist to work on an A, especially if it's a diesel pusher. Hope this helps.

Guest · Jul 4, 2011

Dunno if this will give you any ideas, but if all you need is a cheap mobile motel room, check out my converted 6x12 cargo trailer: <a target="_blank" href="https://vanlivingforum.com/post?id=5106755&trail=15">https://vanlivingforum.com/post?id=5106755&trail=15</a> It's nothing fancy. Just a bed, shower, storage, toilet and sink. Kinda my "Motel 6 Tool Shed on wheels". Everything's explained and I posted pics. PM or email me with any questions. Most of the materials I found, traded for, or trash-picked for. For you, it'd be easy enough to add a 5,000 BTU Walmart window a/c unit ($98) and a super quiet Honda eu1000 genny to power it (<a target="_blank" href="http://www.sunrisetool.com/proddetail.php?prod=Honda-EU1000I">$725</a>). Get an extended tank so it can run all day for the dog. Since I have minimal power needs, I only need the three 60watt solar panels I made with a  CTEK D250S Dual DC/DC charger (charges the two 110Ah  6v golf cart batteries from the solar panels or my trucks alternator). I also have a 125v/15 amp plug to shore power on the side of the trailer, with a GFCI strip inside.

Khaosinc · Jul 4, 2011

I actually have a specific one in mind, and once the end of the season comes, I'll most likely order one.  26' is a little long, but I want the space. http://www.livinlite.com/VRV-overview.php

Seraphim · Jul 5, 2011

Depending on where you plan to park, 26' is not a bad size. You're not going to leave your truck hooked up to the trailer, I'd guess, unless you plan to pull out the next morning. Do you really need a toy hauler with a ramp? It is good for storage, a laundry room , a 'mud room', etc. but gives you less living space. Didn't locate a price when I went to the site, so don't know what the unit's going for. Looks spartan (from the 'luxuries' point of view), but that might keep the price down.

MargaretA · Jul 5, 2011

Just a thought - how sturdy is this trailer, or (maybe more appropriately) how sturdy do you need it to be? What will you be doing with it, where will you be taking it (ie off road?), will the 3 dogs be inside it much? I ask because a late model (2010 or 2011) Livin Lite popup just showed up on my local Craigslist, and later on eBay, with major damage just from the wind. That seemed unusual to me but the eBay ad explained that the wind had blown something over - the awning, I think - and it crashed into the box of the popup. I'm no expert but to me it looked like that entire corner of the box was crushed. I know you're not talking about a popup and I don't know if you'll have an awning. But the amount of damage to that box, which I'm guessing is the same material used in the bigger trailers, makes me wonder how sturdy it (the material) is, especially if you're going to be full-timing in it. If anyone here is full-timing in an ultra-light travel trailer or 5th wheel, it would be helpful to know how well it's held up under that kind of use. Meg

sl1966 · Jul 5, 2011

I'm not FT yet, but my trailer is 16' and weighs 2100pds empty w/a GVWR of 2700pds. I've taken it out a couple of times on 3-4 day jaunts with little to no problems. The problems I encountered were self inflicted and not a problem with the trailer itself.

Guest · Jul 5, 2011

Kaosinc - Make sure you have enough truck to pull a 26'er. General Rule is 110" of tow vehicle wheelbase gets you 20' of trailer. After that, each 4" of WB gets you 1' foot of trailer. More towing math: Remember that dry trailer weight doesn't include water, propane and cargo. Water @8.3 lbs/gal, propane: 20# tank is 38lbs full,  30# is 54lbs full, 40# is 70lbs full. Hitch weight s/be 10 - 15% of the trailers total weight, but not exceed what your truck's rated for. Should be a sticker inside your drivers door jamb and you can figure out axle weights, tow weights, hitch weights from that.      Most truck stops have calibrated, legal CAT scales. If you ask nice, most scrap yards and sand pits will weigh you for free, but their scales aren't calibrated and don't give axle weights. Margaret - Good Point! I'm in S Florida and have seen quite a lot of damage done to RV's just from the wind : ripping off awnings, blowing lawn furniture, grills, loose articles into them; tree branches falling onto the roofs. My little cargo trailer has survived all the above and more (large hail, 3 ft of snow/ice on the roof, bikes crashing into it, a palm tree falling on it) with little or no damage. It's aluminum with steel frame - maybe thicker alum. than travel trailers use? Different RV manufacturers build to different specs. Different models, built by the same manufacturer, will have different frames, insulation, options and quality levels. It's a nightmare trying to find any important build specs, since most people rarely use their RVs and don't really care about framing, R-value of insulation, type of insulation, what materials are used for floors, walls, roofs, etc. Tent-out  models - good luck keeping them affordably heated or cooled!

Khaosinc · Jul 5, 2011

I've actually never seen one with major issues in the time I've been looking.  Would be curious to see that one. I've checked out a couple "already sold" ones locally and they seem to be built pretty solid, and I suspect they would hold up equally if not better than a similar built one of wood/steel. Parking is for the most part going to stick with anywhere free.  BLM land, or other places in the middle of nowhere.  20' is about as small as I think I can go with my dogs. Still keeping my eyes open on looking for things.  Almost all my large "junk" is gone (or sold), starting in on the rest of it now.  Hopefully still planning on leaving before another WA winter.

rodell · Jul 5, 2011

One thing to keep in mind, if the motorhome breaks down and you have to put it in the shop, where will you stay. You will have no transportion and no where to stay. Also if you are parked and decided you need to go shopping with a motorhome , you will need to pull a vehicle behind it or unhook everything and drive it to were you are going. Most motorhomes aren't going to give you the MPG a truck and pull along camper will. I'm presently living in a 30' travel trlt with my girlfriend and 2 dogs and we have enought room for all.

Khaosinc · Jul 7, 2011

Kaosinc - Make sure you have enough truck to pull a 26'er. General Rule is 110" of tow vehicle wheelbase gets you 20' of trailer. After that, each 4" of WB gets you 1' foot of trailer. My tow rig is a 2008 Dodge quad cab, long bed 3/4 ton 4x4, with a full tow package.   Anything under about 5 tons is fair game, though I'm hoping to keep it under the weight of my truck.  I'm leaning towards the truck/trailer mostly because my truck is paid off and I know the mileage (very low) and maintence history on it since it was new.  Plus, unhooking it lets me go other places and come back to it which I can't do with a motorhome Thanks all for the advice.

stude53 · Jul 7, 2011

Khaosinc,   I took a long look at the LivinLite VRV you are thinking about, and I was very impressed. The multiple uses of space is very well thought out, and could easily carry a motorized trike for exploration or short shopping trips. Your paid-off HD truck would easily tow it for longer distance travel.   I couldn't afford it on my limited budget, but if you can, I think it would be as rugged and easy to maintain/clean (thinking dogs) as anything you could get.   Bob (aka stude53)

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