Romex anyone

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wagoneer

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I know it not too flexible but it is single strand solid copper The 10 ga 2 strand with ground. one panel one battery.
 
i have a question i wanted to wire my van for outlets what type of cable should i use <br>i am going to be setting up a solar system 100 watts to start then will add on <br>i have two golf cart batteries with 115 ah each <br>and a 750 watt / 1500 watt inverter <br><br>if i wanted to wire the van with outlets <br>how would i do it <br><br>i would think that from the charge controller or the inverter i would plug into the first outlet and that would make the other outlets live ? and by shutting of my inverter it would kill juice to outlets <br><br>not sure any help would be appreciated thanks
 
if your set up does not include an inlet for AC so you can hook up to a house outlet or park power then you can simply plug extension cords into the inverter. get decent ones that are 12g and not too long for your application. i dont recommend having extension cords all over the place or loose, nor is it good to "install" them permanently without protection.<br><br>if you really want outlets, it is going be somewhat different looking than a house system because you dont have the wiring run from inlet, to breaker, to outlets like it would traditionally. buts its easy to do and looks nice.<br><br>so, to get outlet boxes, you can make a cord that plugs into your inverter outlets and terminates in an outlet box rather than just a plug end.&nbsp; just run the wire to where you want the box.<br><br>you need to protect the wire with conduit. i used <span style="text-decoration: underline;">flexible</span> Liquid-Tite from Home Depot. its cheap and so are the fittings.&nbsp; the stuff is all grey as are the fittings.<br><br> i used 12g SJOOW (standard voltage limit of 300v, oil and water resistant on outside and inside jacket). it is 12/3 wire so it has 3 wires inside. black, white, green.<br><br>i recommend using this wire rather than cannibalizing an extension cord because the extension cord will cost more as you are paying for the plug ends too.<br><br>so, on one end of this wire you fasten a plug (one that you wire yourself, theres lots to choose), this plugs into inverter. on the other end, you run it into an outlet box for an outlet of your choice.<br><br>it helps to measure the length you need first, then run the SJOOW into the Liquid Tite.<br><br>on the inverter end, let the wire stick out of the conduit enough so you can plug it into the inverter without kinking. (dont worry, the cord is made to be exposed for tools indoor or outdoor, the conduit just protects it in areas where it might get pinched and it looks better). <br><br>on the outlet side, you have the wire stick out of the conduit about 6" for the purpose of making the connections inside the box. screw a fitting onto the outlet box (they have straight and 90 degree if you need) on the side where the wire comes in, slip the bare 3 wires into the box and connect teh conduit to the fitting. then wire your outlet.&nbsp; the grey liquid tite outlet boxes are great because they have little ears on them so they can be surface mounted (see my build).<br><br>if that is the only outlet then you are done. if there is another outet downstream then you would have a fitting for the exiting wire as well.<br><br>sort of rambling but i hope it clears it up.<br><br>basically, you can buy or make a cord that has outlets or outlet boxes on one end and just plug it into inverter. i personally, would wire it more permanently downstream of the inverter by using conduit. either way, since you dont have breaker box or a/c inlet on that side of things, you will wind up ising hte outlets on the inverter.
 
Always use stranded wire in your van and outside. Any outside wiring needs to be waterproof that includes the plugs. <br><br>if you can afford it, use marine grade and solder connections. <br><br>James AKA Lynx
 
thanks for your help on wiring i decided to go the easy way my inverter has two plugs ran a surge protector with 6 outlets to center of van and going to run one to the front easy way to do it as im only going to be running a 19" lcd , laptop,small 12v fan, maybe a a 12v fridge later on <br>thanks for all your help
 
I have used and never had a failure, but I secure the lines with zip ties, and the lines are fused in case I ever do have a failure. Inverter will also trip in this condition. The cost difference is huge and romex may work for you.
 
Marine wiring is tin coated stranded wire. The terminals are not soldered but crimped. The terminals are copper with tin coating.<br>I have not seen a commercially built motorhome that does not use romex wiring for the alternating current. They use stranded for the "shore" line.
 
There is stranded romax. Some is finer than others. Solid tends to break with movement over time. The more strands the better.<br><br>James AKA Lynx
 
<em><strong><span style="color: #888888;">Its illegal to use solid wire in any conversion in Australia. ADR (Aust design rules) only stranded.</span></strong></em><br><em><strong><span style="color: #888888;">Funny thing gas installations here require only solid pipe and mountings no flex pipe except only at the appliance inlet or bottle outlet.<br></span></strong></em><br><em><strong><span style="color: #888888;">Geoff</span></strong></em>
 
Here, our national Electric code allows solid wire for 120 volt in a RV. It requires stranded for the 12 Volt side. Go figure.
 
<em><strong><span style="color: #888888;">This is why most U.S RV imports into Oz don't comply and usually have to be fully rewired making them non viable. Locals here think I'll just save lots of money and self import a RV. Some do their homework but others forget about our stranded 240v AC wiring, RH drive and entry side door being on the wrong side.</span></strong></em><br><em><strong><span style="color: #888888;">Geoff</span></strong></em>
 
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