Requested opinion please

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Van Lady

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This item is used by a blogger in Australia.
If I understand correctly, I would hook up my battery isolator to the pictured spot, a solar panel to the pictured spot, a ground to the pictured spot and likewise the battery to the pictured spot. It is supposed to be a MPPT charge controller. It seems so much easier to understand.
Is this a good unit?
Would you recommend it?
Is there any reason you know of why I should not use this unit?
Thank you!

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ok that's better the controller wasn't there when I looked the first time. I have no experience with this controller. anybody have any input? highdesertranger
 
It appears to be a $242 MPPT solar controller with a temperature sensor.  The owner manual says it works with all types of batteries "(WET, MF, Ca/Ca, AGM and GEL)" but I didn't see a way to tell it which type you have.  If it doesn't know what you have how can it adjust to the different types?

Amazon has several MPPT controllers in the $100 neighborhood that will handle 23 Volts and 20 Amps.  If it won't handle series connection of panels I wonder why bother.
 
Trebor English said:
It appears to be a $242 MPPT solar controller with a temperature sensor.  The owner manual says it works with all types of batteries "(WET, MF, Ca/Ca, AGM and GEL)" but I didn't see a way to tell it which type you have.  If it doesn't know what you have how can it adjust to the different types?

Amazon has several MPPT controllers in the $100 neighborhood that will handle 23 Volts and 20 Amps.  If it won't handle series connection of panels I wonder why bother.


Are you saying this would not work for 2-100 watt portable solar panels connected in series?


Van_Lady
 
Id not want alternator amperage limited to 20 amps but this might be acceptable for a single group 24 marine battery.

I understand the desire for r an all in one device. But dont trust marketing

have no idea a if this device can do what it claims. Not sure if t acts as isolator either for house battery.

Id go.for.solenoid and separate mppt or.pwm controller.
 
No 2 panels series.

I downloaded their user manual.  It says that the max input voltage is 23 volts.  Two "12 Volt" panels in series should be 30 - 40 volts.  So, no, not two 100 Watt panels in series.  It could support 2 100 Watt panels in parallel.  That is more than 10 amps but less than 20.

After more reading of the manual it looks like it might include the isolator function Amazon $15 to $80.  It appears to be able to charge both house and starter batteries from solar.
 
SternWake said:
Id not want alternator amperage limited to 20 amps but this might be acceptable for a single group 24 marine battery.

I understand the desire for r an all in one device. But dont trust marketing

have no idea a if this device can do what it claims. Not sure if t acts as isolator either for house battery.

Id go.for.solenoid and separate mppt or.pwm controller.


I plan on getting 2-6 volt AGM gc batteries. My van came with a battery isolator in it. I do not know the size but it does have a fuse by it. There is a long cable running from the isolator under the van that enters the back corner driver's side through a hole in the floor. It is just sitting there. What does the cable get connected to? I liked this item because I understood how to hook the various items up. Without it I really do not understand what to do with the isolator cable. The van is currently stripped of everything. When it cools off here I will start building it.
Can you please explain where to/what to specifically hook the isolator cable up to?
Thank you!


Van_Lady
 
The original post asks the question:
Is there any reason you know of why I should not use this unit?

My answer is:  the price is too high.
 
Cable gets connected to battery +post of one 6v battery. There should be another equal thickness cable for negative / ground. That goes to negative of other 6v battery. This negative cable might goto nearby frame. These frame grounds become problematic over time. Remove make shiny re tighten cover with grease.

How thick is wire?

Agm when deeply cycled greatly appreciate high recharge currents after a certain number of deep cycles.

Aiming for no less than 20 amps per 100 ah of capacity is wise.

Solar cant meet this but alternator can, if cabling is thick enough for distance required.

Shallow cycles, the high amp recharge becomes less important.
Many deep cycles back upto only to 95% they become much more important.

With adequate cabling to depleted batteries from alternator. And a morning drive when most depleted. Followed by solar the rest of the day to reach and hold absV. Is a good recipe for a happy enough battery.

if solar low and slows them to the area when they cant accept high amperage.... less happy. Even if solar has enough time to achieve and hold absorption voltage for long enough.

idling engine to recharge well depleted battery can be very hard on alternator. Driving much better as alternator fan spins faster and more air flows through engine compartment. Highly variable depending on vehicle platform.

my dodge alternator temp skyrockets quickly at idle at max load. Highway speeds its nice and cool.at max loading. Temperature data was enlightening. Results way more extreme than expected. Speeds under 25 mph also caused temp to rise fast.

Weigh costs of premature alternator failure vs premature battery failure. Depleted agm batteries can max out alternator for a while. So dont idle when most depleted. Drive.

If 'isolator ' has a large finned heat sink, it is diode based. These drop voltage across diode slowing charging greatly. Almost ensuring incomplete recharging.

A simple solenoid triggered by ignition easy and better performing.

when looking at 500$+ of agm battery. Spending a bit more on a fatter charging circuit will likely pay for itself on the first set of batteries if they are deeply cycled and vehicle driven daily. Also mo solar mo bettah always.

if one can plug in and recharge as well on occasion. Even mo betta.

i can approach ideal only because i can plug in and my 40 amp plug in manual charging source follows my prescription for ideal.

I do not drive enough that my alternator can fulfill the time at high amps my northstar agm craves when i cycle it to 50% range.

agms can be tickled to death with too low a charging current. So the ability to blast them with high amperage when most depleted can offset too much low and slow solar only recharging. To some undefined degree.

so fat wire from alternator to solenoid to house battery to ground should be a priority with 500+$ of agm battery 20 feet. One way from alternator.
 
With all the variables and unknowns you could start with a "learning battery" as was suggested by Akrvbob way back in 2014.  If you spend $80 on a Sam's Club 24DCC then you get the kinks worked out before buying the AGM golf cart batteries.  If your set up won't keep the cheap battery going it will kill the expensive batteries too.  The only thing is how much electricity do you need?  If you have a fridge or a CPAP machine the 70 Ah 24DCC might not be enough to practice with.  Then I would recommend the $95 27HM which is 105 Ah.

The big AGM golf cart battery might last just fine with two or three rainy days in a row where the learning battery won't.  Even with the big battery you still have to deal with alternate charging sources like alternators.  The learning battery lets you practice those things more often.

Experience is the best teacher; think of the learning battery price as the tuition.
 
Trebor English said:
If it doesn't know what you have how can it adjust to the different types?

I searched the manual for that info, too, and saw no mention of configuring for different chemistries. 


Maybe this unit would be useful for someone which a small solar install who drives a great deal.  I can't think of another use case that would offset the premium price.
 

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