Renogy portable 100w kit

[TooManyDogs]

Hi all! I'm new here (and new to solar) but just bought the kit and have a couple of questions about it. I've read that the cable from the controller to the battery should be thicker. It is also a bit short, since I want to park in the shade but need the panel in sun.

So, 1) has anyone taken off the controller and installed a longer cable between the panel and the controller? I'm thinking of mounting it in the car. Right now the two wires (maybe 8" in length) from the panel are connected to their + and - terminals on the controller. Can I simply splice in 25' of 10 or 12 gauge stranded copper wire using wirenuts or those extender sleeves? As a quick disconnect, I was thinking of using Anderson/trailer connectors between the new cable and the controller. Are there better ways of doing this? I see people have used extension cords?

2) From the manual online (why is there no paperwork with the kit??), it looks like I can wire in the dc load directly to the controller. Would you suggest that I do this with a whytner frig, or wire it to the battery instead? Does it matter?

If it matters, I'm planning on living/camping in a Ford Escape as a trial vehicle, hence the temporary nature of the solar setup.

Thank for your help.
TooManyDogs

 

[highdesertranger]

you should post a link to the instruction so we can see exactly what your talking about in #1. as far as #2 goes run all your load to the battery, the load on the controller is for specialized uses only. highdsertranger

 

[TooManyDogs]

I can't seem to find the instructions for the portable kit on renogy's website. Here's the link to the Amazon page. The pics kind of show what I mean.

The controller is mounted on the back of the panels. I want to take it off and move it into the car. I'm just not sure the best way to do this.

Thanks for answering the second question!

https://www.amazon.com/review/reviews-lightbox//ref=cm_cr_dp_aw_img?ie=UTF8&asin=B00HR8YNK6

 

[highdesertranger]

is this your panel http://www.renogy-store.com/Renogy-100W-12V-Mono-Portable-Solar-Suitcase-p/kit-stcs100d.htm . if so then here's your manual, http://www.renogy.com/wp-content/up...rystalline-Portable-Solar-Suitcase-Manual.pdf . so I glanced though the instructions really quick I would say yes you can put longer wires on it just go for the largest wires that will fit the controller. Renogy monitors this site so they might chime in. I am surprised no one else has replied the electric people must have the night off. highdesertranger

 

[SternWake]

PLease do not use wirenuts to extend the cabling.  Use high quality butt connectors which either come with their own heat shrink tubing, or use some HST over the insulated butt splices.  Soldering here could weaken the wire as it is a portable installation.

I like stripping off the nylon yellow insulation off of 10-12 awg butt splices and using adhesive lined heatshrink



I am not a fan of using AC extension cords  and connectors on DC electricity, but this is a personal preference.

Minimizing voltage drop maximizes solar harvest, so I say go for as thick of wire as you can justify.

I consider the Load feature on charge controllers, as powering things once the battery cannot accept all the amps the Panel can make at that moment.  Like diverting the surplus amps to the engine battery.  If my controller had this feature, it would remain unused.

Wire loads to the battery, use the controller/solar to recharge the battery.

Homedespot carries 2 wire 10-2 landscape lighting wiring as reasonable prices, but it is stiff and does not bundle cleanly.

Consider the fact you might want to add another panel in the future, which would require thicker wiring anyway, so One could go overkill on the wiring now

Here is a nice level of Sternwake approved overkill for extending the cabling:

http://www.amazon.com/Keeper-KTA141...sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=147ND97WNXYBJX94R5M6

Get 2 of these kits and one can put the panels 50 feet from the controllers, or if at only 25 feet, double the 6awg from panel to controller for double extra overkill

 

[rvpopeye]

IIRC those Renology people are real finicky about their warranty and modifications to their kits.

That being said ,,, I would use the biggest guage wire you can get your hands on and splice in a reduced size to the maximum size that the connectors on the units will fit, as close as possible to the units . I'm thinking for a 100 watt panel , something like 10 or 8 guage would work well for a length of 25'-50' or so (which might fit without reductions). To test , measure the voltage at both ends with a digital meter and if there is any significant difference try doubling the conductors....... JMHO

Stern Wake will probably chime in with a chart with exact sizing for different lengths and voltage drops.
(I'm too tired and cold to go looking right now ....Oh my goshk!)

 

[Renogy]

1) has anyone taken off the controller and installed a longer cable between the panel and the controller? I'm thinking of mounting it in the car. Right now the two wires (maybe 8" in length) from the panel are connected to their + and - terminals on the controller. Can I simply splice in 25' of 10 or 12 gauge stranded copper wire using wirenuts or those extender sleeves? As a quick disconnect, I was thinking of using Anderson/trailer connectors between the new cable and the controller. Are there better ways of doing this? I see people have used extension cords?

2) From the manual online (why is there no paperwork with the kit??), it looks like I can wire in the dc load directly to the controller. Would you suggest that I do this with a whytner frig, or wire it to the battery instead? Does it matter?

Hi TooManyDogs,

A thicker cable is always recommended to prevent any voltage loss across these systems. It is definitely possible to remove the controller, however by doing so it voids the warranty on the unit.

A great way of going about this is splicing on the heavier wires from the panels and having that as your longest run. Get your controller as close to the batteries as you safely can. 12 AWG of stranded copper works just fine.

DC loads can definitely be run off of the controller. How much current does the Whyner Fridge draw? It is 12 volts I'm assuming?

On a side note, in an effort to be more eco-minded, we've discontinued printing manuals. However, you can request a physical copy by emailing our customer service team at [email protected] and we can get one sent out to you.

All the best,
The Renogy Team

 

[highdesertranger]

Mr. Renogy, I think you are forgetting that when the sun goes down the load terminals on the control cease to output power. so his refrigerator will only be able to run when the sun is out. highdesertranger

 

[B and C]

HDR.  I think the load terminals will run off the battery too.  Think highway sign that is solar powered, it has to run all the time too.

 

[WheelEstate USA]

HDR.  I think the load terminals will run off the battery too.  Think highway sign that is solar powered, it has to run all the time too.

Yup, mine have power and its dark outside.

 

[ccbreder]

Yes. That is why everything hooks to the battery.

 

[Renogy]

Mr.  Renogy,  I think you are forgetting that when the sun goes down the load terminals on the control cease to output power.  so his refrigerator will only be able to run when the sun is out.  highdesertranger

Hi highdesertranger,

Just as Brian, bindi&us, and ccbreder said, the load terminals can run off the battery.

p.s. it's Miss!

All the best,
Valerie from the Renogy Team

 

[highdesertranger]

ok I learned something new. when I bought my el cheapo controller that is how it was explained to me, I was told if I wanted to run something just when the sun was up like a fan, then hook it up to the load side. now that this hs been brought up I will have to check it at night. highdesertranger

 

[akrvbob]

Whether it's possible or not, I don't know why anyone would want to. If everything goes trough the battery it's easy to be sure it's properly fused. Especially if you run it through a fuse block then it's fused there and at the wire going to the battery.

I also want the least connections possible outside the van and exposed to the elements and activity.
Bob

 

[TooManyDogs]

Thanks for the responses. Now I just have to figure out how to dismount the controller-it looks like the hex screws are stripped. The actual wiring looks doable!