Realistic 2k-ish generator time in 90-100+ degrees

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Dingfelder

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Hi everyone.

I was reading about the Honda 2200i portable generator and it said with a gallon of gas it lasts up to 8 hours per filling ... then said at 1/4 power level.  

Do people really run their generators at that kind of level and still get the performance needed to run a RV/trailer/van air conditioner?  (I've the same rooftop one I seem to see everywhere.)  

Because I could maybe see buying an expensive item like that if it completely transformed my summers from hell to heaven by getting me out of these 100 degree days for the cost of a gallon of gas ... but not four gallons ... I really need closer to the 8 hours ...

I mean, with a similar level generator of course -- I know there are monsters out there, but I would need both a small and quiet one like the Honda or equivalent ... I'm parked at a friend's house and their bedroom isn't too far away ...

FWIW, my trailer is only 16 feet long, and besides my small 3-way fridge, I don't need to run anything in here during the day if it means I would get to run an air conditioner ...
 
The gas consumed - therefore cost per hour - strictly depends on the AH per hour being consumed by your loads altogether.

Some aircons are more efficient than others,

and usually cost more up front,

but an 8000btu unit will always be thirstier than a 5000btu one.

The real key is a well sealed envelope of living space with thick insulation, so the aircon thermostat keeps the compressor running on a lighter min/hr duty cycle.

Do not expect a cost/hr less than 10x running off mains power.
 
I don't know what AC you have but the Honda is not going to be running at 1/4 load. closer to 100% for most AC's. you should be running your fridge off of propane. highdesertranger
 
I purchased a Frigidaire 5000 BTU AC.

It 410 watts / 3.8 amps. Lowest watts / amps AC I could find.

I'm planning at least at this point to purchase an Energizerezv2000s

2000 starting watts / 1600 continuous watts.

It says...At an electrical load of 400 watts (25% of max capacity) the run time is 11.5 hours. The fuel tank is .9 gallon.

It certainly sounds like I could get close to that run time.

The problem with these generators is that there not really that quiet.



If you are parked at a friends house, why not just run an extension cord?
 
Yeah, most trailer and motorhome ACs are in the 12-15k BTU range (some "energy efficient" ones run at 11k BTU), so they usually need at least 1500 watt during the compressor duty cycle (and compressor starting will spike even higher if the unit doesn't have a soft start built in). If the trailer is small enough, a household window unit with 5-8k BTU will be more efficient and much less power hungry (problem might only be how to install it without ruining the trailer and/or not looking too trashy). Those will run well on a quiet 2000 watt Honda, but let me also ask you this: if you're parked at your friends house, why can't you just run a shore power line (and offer to chip in with the utility bill)?
 
RogerD said:
The problem with these generators is that there not really that quiet.



If you are parked at a friends house, why not just run an extension cord?
Click to expand...


Will check the link, thanks.

I am on an extension cord at the friend's house.  Had to connect to a fairly distant outlet because the ones on the whole side of their house that I'm close to are very iffy and go in and out all the time.  A workman fixing up their place told me it's been like that all year.  I discussed it with them, figuring I should at least let them know they had a problem.  For whatever reason, they are fixing up the looks of the place but ignoring the electrical and at least one plumbing issue that I know of.  

I've run my A/C for a total of maybe two hours in the last few months there.  The power went out three times and I had to reset a breaker.  It goes out other random times, but it appears my A/C is working on a weak link in their system.  The rest of their house, except all the outlets along that one side, is fantastic and in fact it is a gorgeous custom-built home only about 20 years old.

So in sum, their power is unreliable and doesn't work for anything heavy at all.
 
C-Cat said:
Yeah, most trailer and motorhome ACs are in the 12-15k BTU range (some "energy efficient" ones run at 11k BTU), so they usually need at least 1500 watt during the compressor duty cycle (and compressor starting will spike even higher if the unit doesn't have a soft start built in). If the trailer is small enough, a household window unit with 5-8k BTU will be more efficient and much less power hungry (problem might only be how to install it without ruining the trailer and/or not looking too trashy). Those will run well on a quiet 2000 watt Honda, but let me also ask you this: if you're parked at your friends house, why can't you just run a shore power line (and offer to chip in with the utility bill)?
Click to expand...

As noted in my response to the guy above you, their power is unreliable and tends to cut out when I run my A/C, and they don't seem to want to fix it even though it affects a big part of their otherwise well-kept and very nice house.  I'm more than happy to pay my way.  The family is actually at the very least borderline rich and decades-long friends with my family, and I was the caregiver to the father for years before his death, so they decline my repeated offers to do everything from pay anything I can think of to doing most chores and errands, though I do cook them a lot of dinners and usually buy most of the ingredients.  Our families have done for each other and been close friends a long time.

Heck, I would even pay for the electrician to fix their problem, if it were a cost within reason, being that I would probably notice the improvement more than they would and wouldn't mind contributing more, but they just don't want to be reminded of the problem.  

I can't say it makes sense, or isn't perverse, but there it is ...
 
Re a smaller window air conditioner, that's problematic because the only good window for it is one that is literally a foot from my hip and leg, and the thing would blow right exactly on top of me. I do love cool and even cold, but I think that would be too intense.
 
John61CT said:
The gas consumed - therefore cost per hour - strictly depends on the AH per hour being consumed by your loads altogether.

Some aircons are more efficient than others,

and usually cost more up front,

but an 8000btu unit will always be thirstier than a 5000btu one.

The real key is a well sealed envelope of living space with thick insulation, so the aircon thermostat keeps the compressor running on a lighter min/hr duty cycle.

Do not expect a cost/hr less than 10x running off mains power.
Click to expand...

I've got what I've got, definitely not an Arctic Fox or anything better insulated than any other trailer.

I have no idea what the cost of this A/C might be on mains power.  I know I don't want to pay $500/month to cool myself, but more importantly, the electric here won't let me run an A/C anyway.

So I'm wondering if anyone else finds the claims of these generators to run an A/C hard to believe ... I mean when claimed by people who have not bought a different, and lowest-draw-possible, A/C than their unit came with.  If it only works for cooling under ideal conditions and/or for very short periods of time, then I can't use it ... but I'm not getting the impression from vids that people are trying to fake what they're saying ...

... I'm new to a lot of this stuff, it's hard for me to judge.  That's why I'm asking.  

It can be hard to navigate between "It's the perfect solution!" and "Nah, hell no!" :D
 
Yeah, I agree with John, that's the route I would take... if you have a deal with them that you can stay long term, ask if you could pay the electrician to put in a 30 or 50 amp outlet near your RV... it would even add value to their property if they ever decided to sell... ;)

Otherwise, you might need a much more powerful genny to run your roof AC... I would try to find out what the specs on your roof AC are and also see if an aftermarket soft-starter kit can be installed (it reduces the power spike when the compressor starts up). Then find a generator that can handle that draw easily (like a unit that has at least a few hundred watts more continuous capability, since you don't want to run a generator constantly at its limit). You can also find out how much wattage your AC currently consumes by using a Kill-A-Watt meter (20 bucks on Amazon)...

Finally, make sure you chain the generator to something solid with a good lock (and not a cheapo Masterlock... more like a motorcycle lock - look up Bosnian Bill on Youtube if you want to learn about what makes a good pad lock) so it's not easily stolen...
 
C-Cat said:
Yeah, I agree with John, that's the route I would take... if you have a deal with them that you can stay long term, ask if you could pay the electrician to put in a 30 or 50 amp outlet near your RV... it would even add value to their property if they ever decided to sell... ;)

Otherwise, you might need a much more powerful genny to run your roof AC... I would try to find out what the specs on your roof AC are and also see if an aftermarket soft-starter kit can be installed (it reduces the power spike when the compressor starts up). Then find a generator that can handle that draw easily (like a unit that has at least a few hundred watts more continuous capability, since you don't want to run a generator constantly at its limit). You can also find out how much wattage your AC currently consumes by using a Kill-A-Watt meter (20 bucks on Amazon)...

Finally, make sure you chain the generator to something solid with a good lock (and not a cheapo Masterlock... more like a motorcycle lock - look up Bosnian Bill on Youtube if you want to learn about what makes a good pad lock) so it's not easily stolen...
Click to expand...

This sounds pretty sensible.  If as John says I'l be paying 10x in gas what I'd pay in electric, it makes a lot more sense to go electric if at all possible.  

I'll broach bringing in an electrician for the home electric to my friend tomorrow, and beat down any objections to my desire to pay for it unless it's some insane amount.

Long-term, I still want to figure out how to handle the heat in this trailer ... and I really want to talk to you folks and any others who can steer me straight ... but for now, it would be enough if I could just get over the hump of this summer of being pounded and flattened and demoralized by the heat.
 
Dingfelder said:
I've got what I've got, definitely not an Arctic Fox or anything better insulated than any other trailer.

I have no idea what the cost of this A/C might be on mains power.  I know I don't want to pay $500/month to cool myself, but more importantly, the electric here won't let me run an A/C anyway.

So I'm wondering if anyone else finds the claims of these generators to run an A/C hard to believe ... I mean when claimed by people who have not bought a different, and lowest-draw-possible, A/C than their unit came with.  If it only works for cooling under ideal conditions and/or for very short periods of time, then I can't use it ... but I'm not getting the impression from vids that people are trying to fake what they're saying ...

... I'm new to a lot of this stuff, it's hard for me to judge.  That's why I'm asking.  

It can be hard to navigate between "It's the perfect solution!" and "Nah, hell no!" :D
Click to expand...

CheapRVliving / JimInDenver Youtube AC Video
 
I have a friend who has a mobile dog grooming business.  She uses a converted short school bus that used to have a wheelchair lift.  She has a small 120 volt water pump, a 5000 BTU air conditioner and a blow dryer for drying dogs.  

She had a Honda eu3000 not electric start.  After a couple of years of daily use it has shown itself to be a hobby grade device.  She took it to two Honda dealer / repair shops and all they did was take her money and tell her there was nothing wrong.  The little motor that moves the throttle had its lube overheated and the little gears quit moving.  I found new little motor for $70 on the internet.  After digging in to it I didn't see anything that convinced me that it should have great reliability or serviceability.  Unless you want to repair it yourself it is, in my opinion, disposable.  The dealer response to a repair request makes that clear.  Both of them didn't want to work on it.  It may be that they thought that each generator repaired is a missed opportunity to sell a new one.

Her elbow has started to hurt.  I told her she could have electric start.  She got a Harbor Freight 3500.  It uses less gasoline per week than the Honda with the same dog grooming business.  Inside the van it is quieter than the Honda.  Outside behind the van it is quieter.  When the ac compressor cycles it starts every time rather than most times.  The $700 price is $1300 cheaper than the Honda.  That will buy a lot of gas.  If it turns out to be disposable that's no worse than the Honda.  If it has some bad design issues, that's no worse than the Honda.  So far, two months, it works fine and she loves it.

The Honda eu3000 is alleged to be big enough for a 14000 BTU rv roof air conditioner.  I have seen the Harbor Freight 3500 work well under the load where the Honda 3000 was marginal with the dog hair dryer and the small air conditioner.  If you are considering a generator for a roof mounted rv air conditioner consider the Harbor Freight generator.  

If you use two gallons of gas per day for the next month that's $6 x 30 = $180.
Three months of gas plus the generator will be about $1200.

If your friend's house wiring is bad you don't want to get into that.  Your trailer is overloading something, maybe a fire hazard.  They may need a replacement of the breaker panel with great disruption.  It may be a simple cheap fix, maybe a can of worms.
 
Good post TE....

In today's society everyone wants the best, at a dirt cheap price.

I don't need the best... just one that works.
 
If you apply a good white roof coating (roll-on or brush-on) it will also help with the heat, if your trailer is parked in the sun. 

You will still need A/C but it wont have to work as hard...actually saving a little bit of gasoline for the generator or electricity from your friends house supply.
 
My suggestion was for an independent meter + pedestal fresh run from the power pole, not messing with the existing setup.

Of course it may be cheaper to fix up their service and just tack on a new 50-60A circuit, but

I figure getting a separate meter and not getting involved in their problems would help sell it to them and be cleaner solution for all concerned.

Yes an investment, would only be worthwhile if amortized over at least 4-6 months, compared to renting a room or campsite.
 
All good ideas, I think, John61CT.

I do like the idea of having separate service. That way I wouldn't be using their electricity for free. Which doesn't bother them a bit, but still, it would make me feel better to think I wasn't being a drain on them.

Do you have any idea how much something like that might cost? Or just what sort of range the cost might fall into?

I tried to get in touch with local electricians today, but the first one's machine said they weren't taking new clients, and the rest didn't respond I guess because it's Saturday and they weren't around.
 
No, too variable.

Step one is owner agrees. Then find out if permit required.

Don't advertise you're dwelling there.

For charging a future electric vehicle maybe?
 
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