question on building my own RV

[[email protected]]

Hello all, I am new to this forum and I hope I am posting this question on the correct topic section.

I have an old 2001 Prowler travel trailer with a GVW of 10800 lbs. It's 33 feet long.

Where it is, is where it's always going to stay, never moving it again.

I would like to strip it down to the frame and build it up again using better materials and make it a little wider in the process (no bump outs, same width all along the length)

I am trying to find out if anyone knows what the FRAME weight is or might be. This will give me an idea of what I can use for the new material weight as I build it back up. It will end up being a bit heavier but it will never move and I'll have more supports along the bottom than just the end jacks and wheels.

Can anybody help?

Thanks,
- Bill

 

[Fearnoevil]

Hi Bill,
I don't have any direct xp with rv construction, most of mine is with standard home building, much of the skills and some of the structural components are similar. So from that vantage point I think I can give you a few tips.
First, when you say strip it down to the frame, are you talking just the inside or inside and out? Stripping it completely down is a lot of work and could entail a lot more cost, especially considering how TT are build. I see that you want to expand the width the entire length of the trailer, about how much wider are you thinking?
I would agree with stripping down the inside, saving as much material as possible (if cost is an issue, and I always believe it is, no need to throw away anything that could be reused or repurposed ;?). From an insulation standpoint, furring out the walls and increasing your outer wall thickness to 4" if not 6" would be a big benefit down the road. To keep weight down, you could use metal studs, they are easy to use (just make sure you wear a good pair of leather gloves to avoid cuts) just need tin snips and a screw gun. Same for the ceiling, the more insulation the better, and crawl under the TT to see what insulation is there, and try and add some (cut foam panels might work better down there but are more $$$).
As for widening it the way you want, that could present some issues, especially with the roof, and a lot depends on your building skills. But that aside for now, you would need to find out if the way the TT sits on the steel frame will allow you to tie into the existing floor beams, but for a short extension of say up to 24" there are several ways to do it, longer might require heavier/different methods, just depends on your underlying structure. Pictures (and a lot of them) would really help people give you better advice. Gotta run, good luck on whatever you decide and I'll check back to see what's what.
;?D

 

[[email protected]]

Hi FearNoEvil,

Thanks for the fast reply. When I say stripping it down to the frame I mean completely! So, all that would be left to view would be the frame and wheels, no floor, nothing.

Currently, the width (inside) is 8' and the longest bump-out makes the ID just shy of 11'. I would create a new platform of sandwiched 2x6 framing to lay onto the existing frame with an outside dimension of 11' wide by the original length. This will give me an ID approximately equal to what exists now but for the entire length. (Remember, it's never going to move.) The 11' length will cantelevar the floor about 2.5 feet on either side of the frame but with the box construction and some gussets underneath this should not be a problem.

Your idea of using steel studs is a great one. I've never worked with them before but there's no reason I can't start now. The roof would be a standard pitched roof with 2x6 rafters, 1/2" plywood and metal outer-layment.

My biggest concern, and I'm probably over reacting, is the stress on the frame. I'm guessing I could probably go way over the original weight of the living portion since 1) It's not moving every again 2) Its supported at all four corners on cinder block and 3) It's supported twice more in the middle along each side by cinderblock.

 

[LeeRevell]

The "diameter" is the circumference of the entire body, a good deal more than eleven feet. Do you mean the maximum WIDTH?
As to weight concerns, add more underframe supports (cinderblocks). That heavy roof frame will add a LOT of topside weight! That could mean some support under the overhanging cantilevered floor too.
You could run the cinderblocks along the entire length and width of the frame, getting more support and a workable "basement" area for storage. You could increase the height of this area too.
Don't short yourself on insulation too, depending on where you are. That will soak up some frame space, reducing internal width too.

 

[akrvbob]

My inclination would be to build a "Lean-To" which is a stand alone cabin beside it that has the doors of each lined up so they connect. I think that would be cheaper and easier than what you are planning.
Bob

 

[PastTense]

I just don't see the value of what you are planning OP. I think I would either:
1. Do what Bob suggests--a lean-to or
2. Build a complete new house (perhaps reusing some materials)

If you build a completely new house you could live in the trailer while building the house. If you do what you suggest where will you be living while construction is underway? And a new house is going to last the rest of your life--unlike the trailer which could have problems in a few years (travel trailers need to be lightweight so use flimsy materials)

 

[Fearnoevil]

Wow, that sounds like a major undertaking, and without knowing the exact circumstances, I would have to agree with Bob and Past, it does seem like simply using the base and framing would not be cost effective. However if you are going this route to maintain the facade that it is an RV rather than a fixed building, then I guess I could understand your motivation. I know that Tiny Home builders do this to circumvent zoning restrictions so not sure if that is part of your plan (and if so I say then go for it, screw The Man, lol).

Also with the modifications you're talking about, it sounds like you really want to just use the steel frame to build on since the outer wall construction is generally wood (not sure if it's 2x2 studs like a lot of other TT's), and the roof is usually constructed of specially designed wood trusses. And as someone mentioned, you really want to beef up those exterior walls so you can add insulation and if you are in areas with extreme temps, I'd even go with 2x6 outer wall construction (a little extra expense now will really pay off down the road). Not sure if that fits in with what you're planning, if not more info would be helpful.
;?D