Propane tank safe inside van?

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PattySprinter

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I bought the one gallon propane tank that I saw in one of Bob's videos. Now how safe is it to store the propane tank inside van?
Also - if it is safe - are there safety maintenance steps ... and what is the best way to secure and protect it?
 
Carry it upright in a box to prevent it from rolling around (like a milk crate bought from Home Depot) and/or strap it to something.

I carry my 20lb in the foot well of the passenger seat area. Since there's no one sitting there it's good storage space for it. In case of really serious collision the foot-well is one of the safest places - it's engineered to protect people!

Make sure you turn off the valve when you're transporting it.
 
Just about everyone on here carries their heating/cooking fuel in their vehicle.
Make sure it is secure, the hoses don't get pinched, and you turn the valve off when not in use.

If using the small tanks you can buy the wall mount latches for securing fire extinguishers.
That is what I did for my old builds so I could leave them connected but solidly secured.

That said, going with a larger refillable tank is MUCH cheaper in the long run.
 
Supposed to be in a box sealed from the living space and vented from the bottom to the outside.

In very hot conditions the valve is designed to release vent the propane when pressure builds.

Very few DIY conversions bother, and the few explosions that we hear about seem to be other causes, often Darwin awards.

Also a small tank would release less than a large one.

But if you're planning a full buildout with venting and cabinets, I'd go to the extra bit of trouble.

Definitely only carry with the valve closed and bottle well secured in place.
 
John61CT said:
But if you're planning a full buildout with venting and cabinets,  I'd go to the extra bit of trouble. 

I am planning on getting a new van - I hate the idea of cutting holes in it!!
So it looks like I will need a hole for solar, one to vent propane and another for the Maxx fan.
 
Hydrogen rises and can also go boom, so yes, if batts in a sealed box vent from the top.

Many keep them open if not sensitive to the smell only concentrating it is dangerous.

Even "sealed" aren't really, just vent less.

And some vent the excess heat from fridge condensor/electronics to improve efficiency, a hot water unit etc.

Any such vents should be sealed while underway if positioned where exhaust could get in, also to avoid dust when traveling off sealed roads.

And screened against critters entering, including no-see-ums and mozzies where appropriate.
 
Gideon33w said:
Don't forget a vent hole for batteries if you don't use sealed units ... lol

have a Goal Zero 1000 - Do I need a vent for that also?
 
John61CT said:
And some vent the excess heat from fridge condensor/electronics to improve efficiency,   a hot water unit etc.

Any such vents should be sealed while underway if positioned where exhaust could get in, also to avoid dust when traveling off sealed roads.

And screened against critters entering,  including no-see-ums and mozzies where appropriate.

:huh:
The Dometic CC40  and the Goal Zero need vents (to the outside)?
How are vents sealed when on the move?
... no-see-um screen - smart! I lived in GA for 10 years - I know how annoying they can be, and snakes, and spiders ... gators ...
 
The Goal Zero is a lithium battery iirc. No need for a vent. You don't have to vent the fridge. It will just help keep the van cooler in the heat. Remember, it's a heat exchanger. Making inside the fridge cool by making heat outside the fridge. There's several different types of vents designed for RVs. I've never bothered with a sealable vent and never had issues but that doesn't make it a bad idea.
 
I saw a thread a while ago where a guy wanted the full roof area for solar, no other place for a big fan/vent, was into "stealth".

So put in screened bottom vent ports with screw-in seals like on boat decks, high-CFM server fans, reversible with speed controls. I think SternWake helped there. . .

Cracked the windows, had those dark deflectors, fans sucked in most of the time, but sitting over hot ground pushed out.

Said next time he'd design something could flip a switch to close up, screwing in all the port covers every time got old.

If you had zones to vent out, do that rather than the windows. Actually, if you were actively ventilating the whole living space, I reckon no need to also do so locally, any fumes or heat would be dispersed so quickly.

Feeding through a polar tube swamp cooler would be worth a try. . .
 
PattySprinter said:
I am planning on getting a new van - I hate the idea of cutting holes in it!!
So it looks like I will need a hole for solar, one to vent propane and another for the Maxx fan.

They actually want two holes for Propane.  One at the top of the enclosure and one at the bottom.  Each needs to be minimum 1" diameter I think.  The top hole speeds up how fast the propane leaves the lower hole presumably (though I'd like to see their data), but it would also improve removal of heat.  Safety is important.
 
Just one bottom hole is fine, the most important part is no venting into the living space.

Ideal is a grate floor
 
And a passive living space vent, screened, at the other end from the Maxx fan.

Otherwise you need to crack windows.

If the high CFM fan is fighting a sealed space, it has to use whatever little openings, less effective exchange, cooling and maybe drawing in the gasses you're trying to vent out.

Of course if the fan is always set to intake mode, you could plan around taking advantage, e.g. blowing out to help vent the heat from the fridge electronics and condensor.
 
Propane tanks have two valve seats. One for the valve being fully open, the other for being fully closed. Make sure you fully open the valve to prevent leaking around the valve stem seal or packing.
 
From what I hear, the whole Propane industry is a rip off (nickel and me you to death and waste your time too.) The safety aspect itself is on a scale as compared to carrying gasoline or diesel fuel inside your van. But it is a relatively safe and economical option (if  your time has zero value.) I would not mind totting a lp tank here, there, or even across the Country; but NOT full-time located inside my van with my windows cracked, lol (not if I can help it anyway, with better alternatives: li-ion, 2nd alternator, solar, ...)

Of course I'd not even consider carrying lead-acid batteries inside my van, so I am chemically sensitive as a point of reference too (1/8th Cherokee Indian.) BUT, if your van or vehicle cannot fit a Nation's 2nd alternator (the 'Key' imo - See www.theFitrv.com), you don't have too many alternatives other than lp gas unless you live in FL or San Diego (and from experience, both of those places have serious issues.)

If you follow Bob's guidelines, you should be ok though. Drive Safe!  :cool:
 
John61CT said:
Just one bottom hole is fine, the most important part is no venting into the living space.

Ideal is a grate floor

Do you have a link to the state and federal laws that says only one hole?

I should have saved the link.  But I had the legal description of a suitable Propane compartment in a van and it stated the upper hole had to be no less than 6 inches from the top of the compartment and I forget on the lower hole, but yeah no venting into living area and no locks on propane compartments.  I really doubt the safety police are going to come measure my propane venting holes, but the homeland security guys do check our vehicles when we cross the ferry. I also travel Canada so I have to meet their regs also. If it was for me alone I would secure the tank in the foot well of the passenger seat, keep it upright yada yada and call it good.  But I have other people to consider and when I sell the van I want the compartment to be perfectly legal. 

Otherwise I agree with you, vent down and keep out of living space.
 
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