Propane lead in

[ccbreder]

Acidic water, iron pipe, copper pipe connected equals electrolysis of the copper pipe. It slowly disappears from the inside (wet-side). Brass usually acts as a brake. But maybe masterplumber could reply.

 

[masterplumber]

Argh! I just typed a whole reply, then forgot to hit post before exiting this thread. I hate when I do that. Anyway, use 2 hole straps (the U shaped clamps) and screw or bolt them to the trailer frame as needed. You can run a nipple off the tee and up into the cabinet if you'd like - I was suggesting putting the adapter into the tee as some others were concerned about connections inside the trailer. I'm not concerned about that as your gas lines should never be leaking. As for electrolysis, as long as you use a brass adaptor to connect the copper to the iron pipe you shouldn't have any issues. Definitely isolate any copper lines from any steel like the frame, but also don't let them rub against any sharp corners in other metals, for instance if you use aluminum angle in your build. Copper pipe is very soft and a hole can rub in it just through the road vibrations. I've seem holes rubbed in water pipe underground by a small racks just just from the movement of the pipe as the pressure changes within due to usage.

 

[Tulsatraveler]

Totally agree with you on that!



Not dis-agreeing with you on this, but I suppose I should have added a few things:

All copper lines/ joints on propane systems must be done with proper flare fittings.

People with little experience on making these flares, should definitely minimize the number of connections.

And the more joints/connections in any given system, the higher the likely-hood of a failure, even if a professionally done gas fitting job was used.

At the end of the day on here, it's to empower people to make their own informed decisions, which I guess is why I pointed out it is legal for inside tees and unions, as to the "should they?" well, they can make their own decision.

And as for you challenging "legality" against "best practices", I'd do the same if our roles were reversed!

Cheers!

What about the 20 (?) foot extension hoses sold at the local RVs-are-us??  I'm thinking of having a 5 gal tank at the back door with a hose running inside the van up to the double door with a "T".  One branch running up to the counter top and the other with maybe a 20(?) ft. hose for outside cooking.  Don't tell me that might not be the right way.  An aside, I'm thinking of using the 5 gallon just because you can exchange an empty for a full for $20 on any street corner.  Also I'm thinking of carrying two so i will have a back-up full one when the first one runs out while the steak is still saying 'm-o-o-o.  Thoughts?

 

[highdesertranger]

Tt ok I won't tell you it's not the right way. basically it's your rig and you can do whatever you want to. as far as those exchange tanks they are a rip off. much cheaper to get your tanks filled. highdesertranger

 

[ArtW]

One exception to the exchange tanks being a rip off: certification time
recertifying tanks is fairly costly, so in that instance, and only that instance, exchanging the old tanks for already certified tanks can save you some green

 

[johnny b]

i got my two 30 pounders re-certified....10 bucks each....good for 5 years.....not too costly.

But i agree on the exchange tanks.....turn in the scuzzy ones for clean and 'current' ones, then refill until its trade in time due to expiration date.

 

[ArtW]

Apparently i was misinformed
Odd thing is, it was the guy at the refill station who recommended doing that, so he was 'cutting his own throat' telling me to do that ???

 

[ahh_me2]

Here are the numbers for Alberta, Canada:

1- new 20# tank - average price $40, good for 10 years before recertification.
1- fill - avg price  $15

Exchange program:

To join - $55
to exchange - $25

It's a no brainer here, you definitely pay through the nose for the convenience of exchange.

 

[ahh_me2]

Let's take it a bit further with the numbers I supplied in prior post:

10 years  X 2 fills per year.....

$40 initial cost + 2 fills per year @ $15 =$40 +(20 X15) = $340

Exchange:

$55 init cost +2 fills per year @$25 = 55 +(20 X 25) = $555

Now imagine if you filled the tank once a month or more....
The difference becomes quite extreme, showing exchange is a pure ripoff, but it is based on convenience, which you pay dearly for.

 

[ArtW]

Interesting
Here it's a bit different
No idea how much it costs to certify a tank or how often it must be done, but a 20lb tank with no exchange = $55 at HEB (I think, might be wrong there)
exchanging a tank for one you already have is $15 for the exchange
I think a fill costs about $10-$13 at the station
Having bought a used RV with out of cert tanks, the guy at the fill station said he couldn't fill without them, being recertified, and it was cheaper and easier to exchange them at HEB ($15 a tanks) and bring them in for fills after that, untill I needed recertification again, then rinse and repeat

 

[highdesertranger]

here is another rub. the exchange tanks are only filled to 75-80%. when I get a completely empty tank filled I usually get 4.8 gallons in a 5g tank. so with an exchange you get less propane for a higher price. here in the states Home Depot sells the 5ers for 29.95 and they are good for 12 years. highdesertranger

 

[ccbreder]

Im with artw. When I get mine refilled, it is $20 for 20 pounds. The exchange averages $18 for 17 pounds, some companies less weight. The guy with the metered fill (gallons) always rips me off.