Plywood Floor Direction

[Pops]

Hello, just getting started. 

Any thoughts on the pros and cons of the plwood direction for the floor?
I can either put a solid sheet of 4 x 8 down the center and use templates and a jigsaw for the sides or use several straight cut pieces across the width of the van. It's a Ford E350.

Thank you,

Pops

 

[Free Range Chicken]

Hello Pops. I am also doing my conversion. My main criterion was to avoid screwing into the floor, so make cuts in a way that they get support from the van's body, so your floor won't move in case of a sudden break. I made my pieces surrounding the wheel wells, and also took advantage of floor hooks for securing the cargo. I am very glad that I didn't put big pieces on it (e.g. a full 4x8), I am doing the conversion on my own and carrying big pieces of plywood gets tiring pretty fast, and measuring, fitting, taking out, correcting my cuts and carrying heavy wood is very very tiring for one.

 

[Almost There]

I put one full piece down so that it started on the passenger side of the van and ran it back as far as it would go. Then I layed another cut piece to fill in the drivers side. A 3rd piece went crosswise across the back to fill in the rest. Total wood - 2 sheets with pieces left over.

The layout of my built in furniture is such that all the pieces will lie over top of the seams. This hides them so that any irregularities in cutting and also allows me to lay vinyl flooring without worrying about rough seams.

BTW I used 3/4" GIS so that was thick enough to screw in to without worrying about the screws hitting the floor or not seating properly.

It's worthwhile to consider your layout of your interior before you figure out where you want the seams on the floor to go.

 

[Almost There]

As Free Range Chicken pointed out dealing with a full sheet can be problematic.

I had the lumber yard load the full sheet on the bottom, good side up.

Once home I lifted each corner up, put a milk crate under the corners, cut it in the van, removed the milk crates and shoved the sheet in to place.

Where there's a will there's a way!..

 

[Pops]

Hello Pops. I am also doing my conversion.  My main criterion was to avoid screwing into the floor,  so make cuts in a way that they get support from the van's body,   so your floor won't move in case of a sudden break. I made my pieces surrounding the wheel wells, and also took advantage of floor hooks  for securing the cargo.   I am very glad that I didn't put big pieces on it (e.g. a full 4x8), I am doing the conversion on my own and carrying big pieces of plywood gets tiring pretty fast,  and measuring,  fitting,  taking out,  correcting my cuts and carrying heavy wood is very very tiring for one.

Thanks Free Range Chicken. I appreciate your insight. You're certainly right about the weight, about 70 lbs I think for 3/4 x 4' x 8'. When I picked it up I just let them load it for me. Working with it will still give me a good workout. thanks again, Pops.

 

[Pops]

As Free Range Chicken pointed out dealing with a full sheet can be problematic.

I had the lumber yard load the full sheet on the bottom, good side up.

Once home I lifted each corner up, put a milk crate under the corners, cut it in the van, removed the milk crates and shoved the sheet in to place.

Where there's a will there's a way!..

Thanks Almost There. 
I appreciate the advice. I did have the lumber yard put it in the van good side up but hadn't thought of the crates. I have some fairly study storage bins that should. work.
I too was concerned about holes and went with the 3/4". By the way I went with the PureBond brand by Columbia Forest Products sold by Home Depot. Had to check a LOT of stores but it was worth it.Might be easier to find in different locations. It's the only for formaldehyde free plywood I could find. ($40.00/sheet) I had a sheet of "regular" plywood and i didn't make it a mile before my eyes were watering. It's cabinet grade quality so I'll be using the product line for the rest of the interior.

Thanks again, Pops

 

[Pops]

As Free Range Chicken pointed out dealing with a full sheet can be problematic.

I had the lumber yard load the full sheet on the bottom, good side up.

Once home I lifted each corner up, put a milk crate under the corners, cut it in the van, removed the milk crates and shoved the sheet in to place.

Where there's a will there's a way!..

BTW Almost There, what is 3/4 GIS? Pops

 

[highdesertranger]

I would say the fewer seams the better. when I used to do van conversions we would do the full sheet down the middle and then add the sides and back if a long wheel base. how ever this would leave a lot of scrap. of course with a shop it would get saved for the next job so it wasn't wasted. highdesertranger

 

[eDJ_]

I have an E 350 extended and used 3 4X8 sheets of 3/8" flooring grade ply wood.  I made a paper template
and laid it over the three sheets sideways.  Yes I had some scrap but used it on other projects.

I have no problems using a few screws to locate the flooring which will be covered with indoor out door grade
carpet. 

I'm sure 3/4" will be more than enough for a solid floor.  My first Van had 1/4" masonite  over the floor and
proved to be just fine for all the years I used it.

Understand I wasn't using a Computer Chair with swivel casters or anything like that.

 

[Pops]

I would say the fewer seams the better.  when I used to do van conversions we would do the full sheet down the middle and then add the sides and back if a long wheel base.  how ever this would leave a lot of scrap.  of course with a shop it would get saved for the next job so it wasn't wasted.  highdesertranger

Thanks for your help highdesertranger. Yes, as few seams as possible seems/seams? the way to go. Thanks again, Pops

 

[Pops]

I have an E 350 extended and used 3 4X8 sheets of 3/8" flooring grade ply wood.  I made a paper template
and laid it over the three sheets sideways.  Yes I had some scrap but used it on other projects.

I have no problems using a few screws to locate the flooring which will be covered with indoor out door grade
carpet. 

I'm sure 3/4" will be more than enough for a solid floor.  My first Van had 1/4" masonite  over the floor and
proved to be just fine for all the years I used it.

Understand I wasn't using a Computer Chair with swivel casters or anything like that.

Thanks for your reply eDJ.

I haven't decided yet on carpet or something else. highdesertranger mention leftover scraps too. I'm not too concerned, some I should be able to use. My main concern is doing the best I can on the floor as it's the base of the rest of the build. Thanks again eDJ, Pops

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

I would say the fewer seams the better.  when I used to do van conversions we would do the full sheet down the middle and then add the sides and back if a long wheel base.  how ever this would leave a lot of scrap.  of course with a shop it would get saved for the next job so it wasn't wasted.  highdesertranger

Speaking of seams, it occurs to me that any seam is a potential problem if you spill a liquid.  It could get through the seam and get between the plywood and metal floor, causing eventual problems - rust, delamination of interior grade plywood, possibly even mold?

I'm wondering if the seams should be sealed with something?  Maybe that waterproof Everbond tape they use on RV roofs?

Regards
John

 

[LeeRevell]

Spillage problems will be minimized if using a single piece of vinyl flooring.  But carpet could have trouble.  Maybe put a tyvek  or plastic painter's sheeting under the carpet?

 

[Pops]

My thanks today to LeeRevell, Optimistic Paranoid/John, highdesertranger and peace tara. Thank you all - getting tons of help!

Regarding the seams I think I can reduce them to 2.
First piece along passenger side wall, wheel wells and the cut out for the side door step.
I'll measure tomorrow, but I think the second piece along the drivers side mating with the other piece will give me 1 seam approximately in line with the drivers seat inside armrest. The second seam will be for the cross set piece along the end in the back.

As far as the covering I saw in a post from peacetara a link to BedRug brand made to fit floor coverings. One is rubber with a diamond plate look. The other has a carpet-like look and feel even tho it's made of polypropylene. Both are cleanable by power washer, hose or vacuum.
I'll think it over but I'm pretty sure I'm going to pass on the power washer option. Tough call.  They say bleach, gas, oil and battery acid wash right off.
Since they are designed to fit under the plastic trim on the floor and I will have a 3/4" floor I'll probably need to fasten the edges down with molding. From their description I think it should take care of any fluid issues.
I checked several local retailers and they only carry these for pickups but I'll keeping looking. Perhaps Amazon. As no one carried the style I need I have no idea what the price will be.
Thanks again to everyone, Pops.

 

[highdesertranger]

I will see if I can find the link, I had a link from a place that sold the rubber type in sheets you cut to fit yourself. highdesertranger

 

[highdesertranger]

well not sure if this is what you are talking about, but they use this for the floors in toy hauler trailers. https://www.gfloorgarage.com/g-floor/ . highdesertranger

 

[masterplumber]

I haven't done a van, but several pickup beds which are very similar. I used 3/4 or 5/8 tongue and groove plywood. I ran the tongue of one piece and the groove of the other side down the middle, cutting out for wheel wells etc... along the outside edges. This created a solid floor that didn't move, with no fasteners into the truck bed. For a van you may need to order longer sheets to make this work, but that can be done with a little lead time, I think even with true formaldehyde free plywood. I never glued the tongue and groove together, but if you did that with a waterproof glue I think the whole assembly would be pretty water tight. It also leaves very usable full length scraps for cabinets, shelving, etc...

 

[bcbullet]

I mistakenly thought I had weight concerns and went with 3/8 side to side. I then laid a drop style vinyl flooring on top (the tongues and grooves are straight up and down) but the flex in the ply allowed for some breaking of joints. For the extra 50 odd pounds I should have gone with 3/4 plywood.

 

[Pops]

Hi highdesertranger, thanks for the link. Lots of similar products that could work. Here is the link I mentioned. I found it in a reply to Hyperslug from peacetara back on 12/29/2012. http://www.bedrug.com/products/cargo-van...n-rug.html.

P.S. I'll have to look through the welcome to subjects and see how I could have sent that as an active link. Thanks again, Pops.

Hi masterplumber. That's pretty interesting. I had a hard time just finding formaldehyde 4 x 8's, tongue and groove,who knows. I'll have to take a look, see what's available and compare costs with what I have now. I am concerned that the extra skill needed might exceed my abilities. If I go that route I'll have to be extra slow and careful.  

So sorry to hear that bcbullet. Is the floor still serviceable?

 

[bcbullet]

Hi highdesertranger, thanks for the link. Lots of similar products that could work. Here is the link I mentioned. I found it in a reply to Hyperslug from peacetara back on 12/29/2012. http://www.bedrug.com/products/cargo-van...n-rug.html.

P.S. I'll have to look through the welcome to subjects and see how I could have sent that as an active link. Thanks again, Pops.

Hi masterplumber. That's pretty interesting. I had a hard time just finding formaldehyde 4 x 8's, tongue and groove,who knows. I'll have to take a look, see what's available and compare costs with what I have now. I am concerned that the extra skill needed might exceed my abilities. If I go that route I'll have to be extra slow and careful.  

So sorry to hear that bcbullet. Is the floor still serviceable?

It is...I ended up re-configuring the bed to go side to side so the bad bits were covered up with a storage space under the bed. Prior to that it was smack in the middle between the side benches/beds