Plugging a van into an outlet?

[Bliss149]

I am completely dumb about electricity. Need some advice.

I have a warehouse space with electricity, a toilet and sink with cold water but no heat, air, shower, or cooking facilities. Thinking of moving over there for 2-3 years to save money until i can retire and travel like you guys. 

I could build out the space but i have been wanting to fix myself a camper van so i thought why not put the money into the van instead.

So heres my dumb question. Can i power the van like they do an RV that is plugged into a campsite? Mainly i want air conditioning! 

How would this be done?

Thanks!

 

[bullfrog]

You could just use a window AC unit in a back window while plugged in but it would exhaust heat into the warehouse. It wouldn’t be hard to make it removable so you could use it in a small section of the warehouse as well. While on the road with the van you would need a plug in or generator to use AC. There are waterproof boxes that allow you to plug an extension cord in to the outside of the van and appliances on the inside.

 

[Bliss149]

The box you would add to the van you'd just have installed at an RV place right? Unless you knew what you were doing to DIY.

Would the plug be charging up my batteries? So i would be limited as to what i could run in there by my battery capacity? Reason i ask I might have some things - like a microwave - that i would give up if i converted to solar later. Same with the AC. Where i am now, you gotta have it.

But would love to also have usable rig for occasional trips.

When you drive, it charges up those batteries, right? But then you have to have solar, generator, or campground plug-in to charge them up again?

 

[bullfrog]

The Alternating Current (AC)circuits(110 volts) are totally separate from the Direct Current(DC)circuits(12 volt). If you want to charge a 12 volt battery you can simply use a 12 volt battery charger plugged into 110 volt AC power source to convert it and charge the 12 volt battery with the 12 volt leads coming out of the charger. To get 110 AC from a 12 volt Battery you use an inverter hooked to your battery and just plug into the 110 volt AC outlet on the inverter. This is a very simplified description as there are lots of factors that need to be considered to make this work. Yes an RV repair facility should be able to supply and install what you need for your van plug in but at a cost. There is lots of help here and at gatherings just ask.

 

[bullfrog]

When plugged into commercial power( the grid) at a campground it will pretty much be like a wall plug in your house with an extension cord powering whatever 110 volt AC appliance you plug in. Most batteries can’t supply as much power and need to be charged before they discharge to far and damage to the battery occurs. Driving causes the alternator on the vehicle to charge the battery when it is connected after about 4 hours driving. A generator can run almost any 110 volt AC appliance as well as charge a battery rather quickly much like the plug in battery charger to almost full charge but the closer to full charge the battery gets the slower it likes to charge. Solar is controlled to attach directly to the battery to charge it and the amount of power depends on how much sun the panels get and how many panels are in the system. It requires a lot of power to run a microwave and an almost impossible amount to run an AC on solar but some manage. Some just run the generator when high powered 110 volt AC appliances are needed. Hope this helps!

 

[maki2]

Rvs inclufing some of the van sized Rv units typically have a unit called a "converter" installed in them . Do not confuse a converter with an inverter, they are not the same thing.

A converter will have AC cicuit breakers in it. It will also have a number of 12v fuses in it. Quite often rhey do include a battery charger so that when you are plugged into AC shore power the 12v house battery will be getting charged. The 12v circuits will still work when you are plugged into AC. But of course any AC outlets wont be powered up if you are only running off the house battery. It takes that other device an "inverter" to turn 12v into useable 110v AC. So that would be an additional piece of equipment you will want to have once you are living off grid. I myself dont have a larfge size inverter as if I need a lot of AC power i would be running my generator to produce it dince I don't  have a huge battery and solar panel system.

Off course you dont have to get a converter to have AC in your van. You can instead istall a small AC circuit breaker panel boxbox with a couple of wired outlets coming from those circuit breskers. To get the power cord into your van you can order sockets that fit thru the a hole in the sidewall of your van. They are sold at RV stores as well as marine supply stores.

 This is not all that terribly difficult to do if you can follow directions that come with the products. Good quality wire strippers and crimpers make it much easier to get good connections. Use stranded wires, not sold copper wire such as gerts used in house wiring. There is lots of wiring advice on this forum. But you can always hire an electrician fo the work or to oversee your DIY efforts.

 

[Bliss149]

Really helpful, y'all. Thank you so much.

 

[Tony's Dream]

Bliss149

I was thinking along the same lines as you. I want my truck bed camper to be either or.......so my thoughts was to install the same plug set up as my camper and tie in several 110 outlets. I would then install a 12V system that could be run off a battery. When I would stay in an RV park or some place where I could hook up....I would run all my appliances off the 110 power...and charge my battery. When I am boondocking, I would run off the battery side of things.

 

[Firebuild]

You guys are so fancy! I just use an extension cord.

Also, I use the microwave in my bus daily on solar, and it's not a big deal at all.

 

[highdesertranger]

Firebuild why don't you give us a quick run down of your system. you can't run a microwave on any old system. highdesertranger

 

[jacqueg]

You guys are so fancy! I just use an extension cord.

Also, I use the microwave in my bus daily on solar, and it's not a big deal at all.

Yeah, I might someday add a formal outlet, when I can't think of anything else I want to do to my van.

But I think it is just good practice to always have at least one window cracked, so it's no problem to run an extension cord through the window.

 

[Steveb.]

Yea but you can plug an extension cord into the wall and run a microwave.

 

[Firebuild]

Firebuild why don't you give us a quick run down of your system.  you can't run a microwave on any old system.  highdesertranger

 
I'm always hesitant to talk about my setup because of the... uh,,, let's say "criticism" to be nice... I got when I decided to go this route.   That was almost 2 years ago and the tide of opinion seems to be turning. Ultimately, I didn't want to carry a hundred pounds or more of batteries so I decided to take the plunge on two all in one units, which weigh about 20 lbs each and fit together in a 10 inch deep cabinet, and it has worked out for me. Notice I say "for me." 

These units are cheap and made in China (not Jackery, although most people seem to think they're the only ones who make these things). I can't put a link because they have been on backorder due to COVID for several months and the product was taken down. They're lithium ion, not the best or most expensive technology but good enough, built in MPPT controller, built in 1000w continuous 1500W peak inverter. Advertised as 1000wh and for the most part they deliver that, so with 2 I have 2000wh continuous, 1500 peak. I paid $700 each for them.

I have 400 watts on the roof (soon to be 600) but rarely get 400w out of it because I'm in the Northeast and right now the panels are flat, though I'm hoping to change that. I also have one of those soft suitcase 100w panels but I don't always break it out. It takes me all day to fully charge and some days I don't even get there but I still seem to make it through the night fine. 

I run a laptop and work on it pretty much all the time (video editing).  I also run an IndelB TB15 fridge with no issues (I had issues initially because I was running it off a long 12v extension cord; moving the battery unit and the fridge closer together solved the problem). And the microwave. I have 2 INdelBs (one was a gift) and I want eventually to run one of them as a freezer but I'm not trying to do that right now.

I'm not really sure what the big deal is with the microwave. it takes me a maximum of 6 minutes to cook a meal in it. I have a 700w oven but it typically draws over 800w. I'm still OK because my inverter is 1000w continuous. 6 minutes of cook time at 850 watts is a total of 85wh, which unless I'm worse at math than I think I am (and I'm pretty bad so, could be) is a little over 4% of my 2000wh capacity. Even if I don't reach capacity, and reach half of that, then ok, it's 8%.  Honestly, I don't see why most solar setups couldn't run this. It seems pretty straightforward, because it's in use for such a short time. 

So that's my system, for better or for worse. I should mention I have a lot of concerns about the temperature, which is all over the place here, 95 one day and 35 the next. I'm sure that will affect their longevity, but then everything suffers in this stupid weather. my beautiful rust free CA bus is a mess after 2 winters in MA.

 

[bullfrog]

So you have $1400 in power stations plus what ever you paid for 400 watts of solar panels soon to be 600 watts to fully charge the power stations so I’m guessing soon to be at least $600 to $800 in panels. That is a pretty substantial solar system ($2,000 to $2,200) which would be difficult to have enough roof space and the original poster was asking about a van. I am liking the light weight and and charging options with the power stations but would be concerned about components failing. Are you able to buy replacement components reasonably for the power stations and batteries should they fail or is it cheaper to just buy a new unit? Sounds like it is working well for you, thanks and keep us updated how it works out over time.
I bought a nice rust free bus from the South West to take back East. It seems the sand gets between the body panels and removes all the paint and rust protection. It rusted out pretty badly in 3 years. I would highly recommend spraying seams in such a way gravity pools either diesel fuel or transmission fluid in those areas. Results may vary!!!

 

[Firebuild]

I've seen plenty of vans with more panel on the roof than I have - but yeah, it's not a small system.  That doesn't really affect being able to run a microwave, however. A microwave is not a big deal, which was my initial point. My needs are really driven by the constant video editing, which burns through my laptop battery. Without it, I could get by with well under half what I have now.

This past year I meant to treat the whole underside for rust before the winter hit but it snuck up on me - i'm going to try to get the jump on it this time.

 

[crofter]

You can install a 15 amp surge strip with breaker in your van. Route the plug toward the rear where there are wiring  channels that run to the outside of your van. The plug end can reside in one of those channels until you need to pull it out and plug it in. I do have to stick my hand up there to pull it out. Others drill a hole in their van and put the plug there, not using the wiring channels. 

You will also need a heavy extension cord, the smaller numbers are heavier. To run an AC unit, try to get 10 or 12. 

Cut a hole in the side to vent the hot air from the AC unit. Install a short duct to the hole. Cover the hole with sealed louvers. AC unit must be mounted for travel.

That is about it. If you live in a severe climate you can expect to pay as much to cool your van with AC as cooling a room in a house. Best is to travel to  cooler place if possible.

Joneyjoe has the lowdown on swamp coolers, much cheaper to run but you still have to cut a vent hole. She runs hers in a severe climate and costs much less than my setup.
-crofter

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