Pic's of your portable solar wiring

[Matlock]

I'm interested in adding a couple 100 watt panels that will allow me to park in the shade and place the panels away from the vehicle.
Anyone doing this and if so would you share photos of how you wired into the batteries? Did you use a separate controller, fuse and power switch? Use Power pole connection? Did you build or buy a panel bracket that is a set angle or adjustable? What gauge wire ? Are you using flexible or rigid panels?

Not trying to reinvent the system, just looking for what works for you, any and all ideas are appreciated and thanks.

 

[B and C]

I am doing just that. I went to harbor freight to get a 50 foot 10Ga extension cord as I couldn't find 50 footers anywhere else.

Here is my thread on my decision making process and build: https://vanlivingforum.com/showthread.php?tid=14642

and here: https://vanlivingforum.com/showthread.php?tid=14642

Hope this helps.

 

[Almost There]

I only have portable so only have the one controller.

No pics of wiring and can't take any because it's put away for the summer while I work (stay in RV park with electric).

I have a pair of 100W Renogy Eclipse panels. They are rigid panels and at first I was going to build a PVC frame so I could angle them. Being a bit lazy I grabbed a pair of square 5 gallon pails I had in the van and used them to prop up the panels until I got around to the frame. 2 1/2 years later the buckets still work fine. I put rocks in them to weight them down and throw the rocks back in the desert when I'm done with them. Up north I use firewood for the same thing. I've used pieces of firewood to support them at an angle a couple of times when I found pieces the right length.

The wiring to the controller consists of the OEM wires that come off the panels with MC4 connectors on the end. I purchased a pair of 9" pigtails from Renogy along with the panels. The pigtails have the MC4 connectors on one end and were open on the other. I wired each of the pigtails with outdoor electric male plugs. These two lines plug in to a 3 way outdoor connector and then in to a 25 ft extension cord that I replaced both ends on with outdoor replacement units. The cord plugs in to a Marinco Inlet that I had installed on the van which is then wired to the controller.

The wiring has to be done with extreme attention to the polarity. Because I couldn't re-wire the 3 outlet cord I had to use that polarity. The 3 inlet section is clear so you can see what color wire is where

Here's a pic of that splitter:

https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Lighted-Extension-Watts-Wire/dp/B01FX6JSGC?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

The right splitter is important, without that you can not determine the polarity of the wires. Starting from the 3 outlet end we wired back to the panels and forward to the inlet using the replacement fittings so that we could ensure that the polarity was correct at each connection. The 3rd prong (ground) is not used except to ensure that you can never plug the wires in incorrectly.

The line from the controller to the batteries is, of course, fused at the battery bank end. I didn't put in a switch because none is needed in a portable situation. The ability to disconnect the panels is in the wiring hookup itself.

I usually leave the 3 outlet splitter connected to the extension cord and simply unplug that from the van and disconnect the panels from the splitter so I I can move them independently.

 

[tx2sturgis]

I use portable AND roof mount panels, but in one of my trailers the output is combined from both roof and portable panels to a single controller and battery, and in the other trailer, there are two separate systems: one roof panel, and controller that charge one battery bank, and another portable panel and controller for a second battery bank. My tow vehicle has roof panels only.

So it kinda depends on what you want and need.

 

[Matlock]

Brian, thanks for posting the link to your system build back in 2015. I'd forgotten that initially I used your component list as a basis for my solar install. Using The Kid MPPT, the Wiz  and the TM-2025 w/2 GC's and 400 watts on the roof. Also a PD9245 for AC charging or my Honda on those occasional dark days. All works fine but not so much in the shade, so a couple portable panels are in order.

I emailed Midnite Solar and asked about panel capacity of my controller (30a max) so 500 watts of the Renogy panels is tops however, I can easily add another Kid. Umm $$, prolly not.

I do have a 20A controller that came with my first Renogy 200w panel "kit". I'm leaning towards using that PWM for 2-100w panels and buy a 50' extension cord. Your reasoning in dealing with a round cord and allowing for snug grommet strain relief and easy wind-up for storage makes sense.

Almost There, I understand how your using the splitter, I think. And yes, no switch needed when using an extension cord. Easy to just unplug it. Still bothers me with male (120V) plug exposed off the panel wires. My luck during setup or take-down I'd short them against something metal and make sparks unless the panels are covered. Am I understanding this or did I miss what you are are saying?

I will be upgrading to AGM's Once I find a comfort level with a portable system. Haven't killed the GC's yet but starting to see some reduced max charging numbers. I'm using too many AH's and need more power.

Brian, the three 125AH batteries your using, are they 12V? I'm assuming but didn't see that in your link. I know you stated they were used but was wondering how many AH's you've pulled from the trio and if you have had any issues filling them back up.

tx2, what panel system are you using on your LifePo4 battery? I understand these batteries like low amp charging for long cycle life. What's your experience so far and can you recover AH's the next day?  

I'm still undecided if the new flexible panels they sell now are worth the money which also makes building a tripod a bit more challenging. But I really like the light weight, makes it easy to handle and store. Building something tiltable may negate any weight savings. Donno..

Thanks for the replies all, I'm gaining on the learning curve and that's not easy to admit let alone believe. :s

 

[tx2sturgis]

Windy Nation 100w panel, which is rigid but very light weight, and the waterproof receptacle on the side of the camper.

This feeds a Renogy Adventurer Lithium compatible controller, and the 100 amp BattleBorn LFP battery. This system only operates the ham radios and the laptop.

I use two separate systems in this trailer, plus a third system in the tow vehicle, which can be plugged into the trailer system to power and charge the trailer. 

The main (2 lead acid) 12v system in the camper is charged by a small Grape Solar 50w roof panel and the 2 Grape Solar 100w roof panels on the tow vehicle. That system operates the normal 12v systems, fridge, lights, water pump, fans, USB ports, propane detector, etc.

 

[B and C]

I do have a 20A controller that came with my first Renogy 200w panel "kit". I'm leaning towards using that PWM for 2-100w panels and buy a 50' extension cord. Your reasoning in dealing with a round cord and allowing for snug grommet strain relief and easy wind-up for storage makes sense.

Almost There, I understand how your using the splitter, I think. And yes, no switch needed when using an extension cord. Easy to just unplug it. Still bothers me with male (120V) plug exposed off the panel wires. My luck during setup or take-down I'd short them against something metal and make sparks unless the panels are covered. Am I understanding this or did I miss what you are are saying?


Brian, the three 125AH batteries your using, are they 12V? I'm assuming but didn't see that in your link. I know you stated they were used but was wondering how many AH's you've pulled from the trio and if you have had any issues filling them back up.


I'm still undecided if the new flexible panels they sell now are worth the money which also makes building a tripod a bit more challenging. But I really like the light weight, makes it easy to handle and store. Building something tiltable may negate any weight savings. Donno..

From what I understand, another set of panels with a seperate controller will work.  Just leave the controller connected to the batteries all the time.

I also use a 3-way splitter on the extension cord and use the green and white wires as my conductors.   My controller has a female plug on it and I plug the 3-way into it.  My roof panels are on a male plug and plug into the 3-way.  My portables are also on a male plugged into the splitter.  So my setup is two series sets of panels connected in parallel.  I cut of the ends of the two portable panels and wired them into the male plug.  All connections are to the green lug and the silver lug.  The brass lug is the one that normally carries the power in a 110V setup (the fused wire).  I have had no issues with the male plug on the portables.  When I am ready to disconnect. I put one of those foam shipping sheets on one and the ;ay the other panel on top, face down.  I then unplug and put the panels away.  The opposite for deployment.  I like the flexibles as they are thin and I have to bend mine some to get them in and out of my basement.

Yes, 3-125Ah 12v batteries connected in parallel.  I hardly ever take them down past 80%.  They are used batteries from a UPS (uninterruptible power supply).  Never an issue to recharge.  If I have my portables out, I can even get a slight charge on a very overcast day (a benefit of series wiring).  If the weather is bad, I run the generator in the morning to make coffee anyway, so I just run it longer to get through the bulk charge phase and then let the panels finish if they can.

I stated my reasoning for flexible already.  My van has an awning that I can lay the panels on (slight tilt) or hang from the awning rail pointed at the morning sun (I always try to park pointed North for this reason and my roof panels will never be in the shade from my roof vent) and I get the benefit of morning sun on my "porch" and it is shaded in the afternoon.  If I am in the shade and can't use the awning, I lay them on the ground.  I can generally find and east or south facing spot where the weeds, rocks or stream bank allows me to point them at the sun.  If not able to do that, I just put them flat on the ground or use something to prop them up.  I don't carry anything specific for tilting.  I find I get enough out of flat that tilting hasn't really been needed but I do it if the terrain lends itself to tilting.

Hope this helps.