first set up help

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Scadwell

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Can anyone help me with this set up. Does this look correct if I wire everything this way? I have two, 100 watt solar panels. Are the fuse sizes correct, in the right place, and what gauge wire should I use for everything? Thank you!!!
 

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Is putting a twenty amp fuse in front of a fuse block redundant? I’d think you’d go through a few of those. Maybe thirty amp? But that would also be determined by wire size, and circuit loads. I have a fifteen amp and a twenty on my block. I potentially could blow that twenty amp fuse. Less likely the thirty. But you would need ten or better yet 8 ga wire from controller to the fuse block. I think I could get 8 ga into my Renogy controller.
And possibly a second battery with that 700 watt inverter... I bumped up to four... and again wire size is crucial. Controller to battery is the one I worry about. I use more of a breaker style fuse. Are those a once and done deal?
 
I use and recommend MRBF fuse holders on the positive post of large batteries in a solar/RV battery power system.

Reason being is these prevent large damaging current surges IF something happens downstream, such as bare wire ends and connectors touching, inverters failing, cable insulation rubbed and shorted to ground, anything of that nature. Your diagram possibly shows a fairly long run of unprotected large capacity battery cables running from the battery up to other components.

These MRBF terminals can be had in single or multiple configurations as your needs dictate.

I use the two terminal style, with a large fuse on the inverter feed, say 80 amp or whatever is needed, then the other fuse is maybe a 30 or 40 amp for the feed to everything else. I keep a couple of spares on hand also.

The cost is not cheap, but the protection is priceless.

https://www.amazon.com/SIGANDG-Term...mrbf+fuse+terminal,industrial,115&sr=1-8&th=1

MRBF_4426.jpg
 
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Is putting a twenty amp fuse in front of a fuse block redundant? I’d think you’d go through a few of those. Maybe thirty amp? But that would also be determined by wire size, and circuit loads. I have a fifteen amp and a twenty on my block. I potentially could blow that twenty amp fuse. Less likely the thirty. But you would need ten or better yet 8 ga wire from controller to the fuse block. I think I could get 8 ga into my Renogy controller.
And possibly a second battery with that 700 watt inverter... I bumped up to four... and again wire size is crucial. Controller to battery is the one I worry about. I use more of a breaker style fuse. Are those a once and done deal?
Do you have a link for the breaker style fuses you use? Fuse block shouldn't need an inline fuse before it right? I did order a second battery. Still trying to figure out what wire size I should use on all this. Thank you for the reply!!
 
I use and recommend MRBF fuse holders on the positive post of large batteries in a solar/RV battery power system.

Reason being is these prevent large damaging current surges IF something happens downstream, such as bare wire ends and connectors touching, inverters failing, cable insulation rubbed and shorted to ground, anything of that nature. Your diagram possibly shows a fairly long run of unprotected large capacity battery cables running from the battery up to other components.

These MRBF terminals can be had in single or multiple configurations as your needs dictate.

I use the two terminal style, with a large fuse on the inverter feed, say 80 amp or whatever is needed, then the other fuse is maybe a 30 or 40 amp for the feed to everything else. I keep a couple of spares on hand also.

The cost is not cheap, but the protection is priceless.

https://www.amazon.com/SIGANDG-Term...mrbf+fuse+terminal,industrial,115&sr=1-8&th=1

View attachment 34651
Godd idea. You think I should up that 60 amp fuse to 80 amp for that inverter? And then 40 amp between controller and battery? Any recommendations on wire size I should use? Thanks!!
 
I did order a second battery, if that changes what size wire i should be using?
 
I bought premade heavy wire between my batteries. I keep it 12v so I wire them parallel… I believe I have 6ga from batteries to load. My inverter is right to battery… well, the buss bar just off the batteries. Then the positive is from one end and the negative is off the other battery or end of bank to attempt to keep batteries balanced… I’ll look for the link for the (breaker) I have…
 
Lots of fuse styles out on the market. I have this style of fuse. This fuse is just to protect the battery. The wire going from my controller to the battery has its own fuse as do the wires to all other devices. you can get it as a single or double battery fuse block. The advantage of this style is space saving, less stuff to mount on a board. That is why I chose to go that way. I was doing my build in a neighborhood along the ship canal in Seattle that had a dozen marine supply stores and I had friend who allowed me to add my name to his businesses deep discount membership at the best of the suppliers. Boat builders use the best electrical stuff and the most compact for setups and control panels. My friend has multiple batteries on his boat in two battery banks. It is a beautiful interior so he does not want a wire mess of fuses and controllers stuck out on the wall and neither do I want that in my very small travel trailer. So less is more. Put your battery fuse on the battery post! That eliminates extra wiring.
 

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I don't use the "LOAD" terminals on the Charge Controller

that red battery switch seems out of place......

with 100 amp battery the smallest battery wire for 100 amp is #4

Here's a PDF that HOWA distributes with their "DIY Solar System Grants" for reference.....I don't like everything they suggest...........(100 amp fuse on a #8.......40 amp fuse on a #10.............??????)

https://homesonwheelsalliance.org/w...nstallation-Suggestions-for-100Ah-LiFePo4.pdf
And the Blue Seas DC wire chart.................DC is sized for "Round Trip"

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg
 
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I don't use the "LOAD" terminals on the Charge Controller

that red battery switch seems out of place......

with 100 amp battery the smallest battery wire for 100 amp is #4

Here's a PDF that HOWA distributes with their "DIY Solar System Grants" for reference.....I don't like everything they suggest...........(100 amp fuse on a #8.......40 amp fuse on a #10.............??????)

https://homesonwheelsalliance.org/w...nstallation-Suggestions-for-100Ah-LiFePo4.pdf
And the Blue Seas DC wire chart.................DC is sized for "Round Trip"

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg
So you would wire the fuse block to the battery instead to the controller? Do I need a shutoff in between the battery and the controller? What wires would need to be #4? Thank for the documents and the help!
 
Lots of fuse styles out on the market. I have this style of fuse. This fuse is just to protect the battery. The wire going from my controller to the battery has its own fuse as do the wires to all other devices. you can get it as a single or double battery fuse block. The advantage of this style is space saving, less stuff to mount on a board. That is why I chose to go that way. I was doing my build in a neighborhood along the ship canal in Seattle that had a dozen marine supply stores and I had friend who allowed me to add my name to his businesses deep discount membership at the best of the suppliers. Boat builders use the best electrical stuff and the most compact for setups and control panels. My friend has multiple batteries on his boat in two battery banks. It is a beautiful interior so he does not want a wire mess of fuses and controllers stuck out on the wall and neither do I want that in my very small travel trailer. So less is more. Put your battery fuse on the battery post! That eliminates extra wiring.
what size fuses would you recommend for the 100ah batteries?
 
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