Opinions please on limited slip drive

[Steveb.]

I have a rear wheel drive Ford van.  Its about $1000 to have a limited slip drive put in.  My friend did it to his truck and recommends it.
I don't mind the cost but am just wondering if I REALLY need it.  I don't ever plan to go down some questionable narrow or rutty road.  I'll always take good dirt or gravel roads and, at worse, I'll drive maybe 50 yds. down something questionable to get out of view of the main road.
By biggest concern is that I may run into snow or ice unexpectedly.  Does the LS help much in that situation?
Also, what about traction devices or specifically chains or cables, with or without the Limited Slip drive?

Thank you!

 

[highdesertranger]

I like lockers, can't beat a Detroit Locker.

limited slip or posi rear ends have clutch packs that wear out. they take special fluid and are prone to acting up. overall they are not as bullet proof as lockers.

lockers are simpler and stronger, however a lot of people complain that they are harsh when locking/unlocking.

there are also selectable lockers. these are considerably more money but they usually have the durability of a true locker and the drivability of a standard rear axle.

highdesertranger

 

[bullfrog]

Without it when one wheel spins your done moving as the other pretty much just sits there. Even a puddle in one rut iced over can stop you. Sometimes you can lightly apply the emergency brake on rear wheel drive and slow the spinning wheel enough to start the other one pulling. Traction aids are just that but again it only takes one wheel spinning to stop you from moving. The nice thing about installing differential devices is they don’t have to be stored or cleaned up after use and are always ready without having to get out of the vehicle and won’t damage your vehicle in most cases. A single tow bill can be more than their cost.

 

[Steveb.]

Thanks. Yeah I really like the idea of the Detroit style...more robust and I am in control of when it activates or doesn't.

So is it like 4x4 where you don't want to run it on dry pavement for any length of time? If you are moving like 30mph and hit some slippery stuff you would just have to be quick and engage it and then be quick and disengage it when you stop spinning or on drier surfaces?

 

[ByeBye]

Imo, go locker.

No experience with this but it is interesting and reasonably priced locker

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwt-1921-lr

 

[bullfrog]

A regular old 4x4 will get stuck if one wheel on the front and one wheel on the back spins at the same time. With 2 wheel drive only one wheel spins and your stuck. A 2 wheel drive with a locker both wheels have to spin before you are stuck. A locker mechanically connects both axles together making both wheels turn together which is fine going straight but because when you turn the outside wheel has to either turn faster than the inside wheel or slide. They should be used only on loose low traction surfaces or when one wheel can come off the ground. Usually the locker should be engaged at a stop, then roll slightly till you hear them engage depending on the style of locker. Many are basically straight cut gears. Some are self engaging like the one above others use a cable, air pressure or 12 volt electricity to engage. Self engaging ones tend to make a clunking noise going around corners sometimes but are cheaper and don’t require driver input other than accelerating while going in a straight line.

 

[highdesertranger]

Steve a Detroit Locker is not selectable. you install it and forget about it, there is no turning it on/off it's automatic. however some people complain that the lock/unlock is harsh.

a locker like an ARB is selectable but they cost like 3 times the money. once they are locked they are locked and if you have traction you will get rear wheel hop when turning. this is very hard on a lot of rear ends and they could break. therefore you cannot drive these on surfaces where you have good traction. but they are not meant for that. they are meant for when you lose traction.

here's the deal if you have good traction you cannot turn a corner with your rear end locked. a pos,i slip in corners lockers do not they must disengage or you will do serious harm to your rear axle. this is the reason none of these can be put into a front wheel drive vehicle.

highdesertranger

 

[bass_sears]

I have a Detroit locker on my 1985 Toyota 4Runner, I will point out they take some getting used to in the snow. They will help you get out of trouble sometimes (two wheels turning not just one) but when the rear is locked and both rear wheels are providing power there's a strong tendency for the front end to "push" straight regardless of how you've turned your front wheels. To get around corners I sometimes have to hit the gas to kick the back end out a bit to get myself started turning.

 

[user 423]

What are your travel plans? Do you plan to regularly be in areas where you might "unexpectedly run into ice or snow".
Many nomads winter in AZ or other southern states and then head north in the summer and avoid that type of weather. Sure freak weather happens but if you drive prudently, it's not a problem. JMHO

 

[desert_sailing]

Well this is timely. A freind of mine who has helped me prepare suggested a lunchbox locker... I don't know much about them.

I was gonna post a thread in reference to them.. I assume we are all talking about the same thing here?

 

[RvDreams]

From https://www.offroadxtreme.com/news/what-is-a-lunchbox-locker-and-how-does-it-work/

The extremely simple design of the lunch-box does create a couple of issues. Lunchbox lockers make a very loud ratcheting sound when they’re cornering. They also have a tendency to unexpectedly lock and unlock. They’ll randomly lock and unlock because of how we corner in vehicles.

If you stay at exactly the same speed or decelerate in a corner the locker is fine and behaves how you would expect. However, if you have to accelerate for any reason the locker can pop into its locked position very violently. This can create unsafe handling characteristics. Due to the fairly violent locking and unlocking mechanic, lunchbox lockers are notoriously short lived.

 

[B and C]

From: https://www.offroadxtreme.com/news/what-is-a-lunchbox-locker-and-how-does-it-work/

The extremely simple design of the lunch-box does create a couple of issues. Lunchbox lockers make a very loud ratcheting sound when they’re cornering. They also have a tendency to unexpectedly lock and unlock. They’ll randomly lock and unlock because of how we corner in vehicles.

If you stay at exactly the same speed or decelerate in a corner the locker is fine and behaves how you would expect. However, if you have to accelerate for any reason the locker can pop into its locked position very violently. This can create unsafe handling characteristics. Due to the fairly violent locking and unlocking mechanic, lunchbox lockers are notoriously short lived.

 

[Steveb.]

Thanks everyone. I watched some youtube today and got cleared up on some things. As usual there are differing opinions on which diff is best for which use and so I'll have to think some more about my real needs.

Slow2day: I've been at 5000' in Oregon in August and September and had it ice and snow. I don't have any real 'plans', but I will have to work part time or seasonally, not sure where, and don't want to have my vehicle limiting my choices of possible jobs or possible camping.
I've always had 4x4 or front wheel drive and the difference on snow with a rear wheel drive is night and day, in my experience. I just want to be as versatile as possible within a reasonable cost......

s

 

[B and C]

Rear wheel drive works much better when there is a load in the back. FWD has the engine and transmission to create weight up front.

 

[desert_sailing]

From: https://www.offroadxtreme.com/news/what-is-a-lunchbox-locker-and-how-does-it-work/

The extremely simple design of the lunch-box does create a couple of issues. Lunchbox lockers make a very loud ratcheting sound when they’re cornering. They also have a tendency to unexpectedly lock and unlock. They’ll randomly lock and unlock because of how we corner in vehicles.

If you stay at exactly the same speed or decelerate in a corner the locker is fine and behaves how you would expect. However, if you have to accelerate for any reason the locker can pop into its locked position very violently. This can create unsafe handling characteristics. Due to the fairly violent locking and unlocking mechanic, lunchbox lockers are notoriously short lived.

Thank you so much!

 

[highdesertranger]

for me it's a Detroit locker or an ARB selectable or nothing. however I heard good reports for the Eaton electric locker. and yes the Detroit can be harsh. however I have had my Detroit for 28 years still works great. LOL I don't get rid of good vehicles. reduce, reuse, recycle.
highdesertranger

 

[Steveb.]

After a lot of pondering I went with the posi. It's in and done. That, with some cable chains, should get me through all but the really bad stuff.
Thanks everyone.

 

[tx2sturgis]

Good choice. 

One thing to be aware of with a limited slip (positrac) is that sometimes, on really slick surfaces, such as hard-packed ice, when you are stopped and trying to get going, such as at a stop sign or stop light, and as you apply throttle, the posi-track action will kick in and might cause BOTH wheels to spin....and that can cause a loss of directional control, and result in skidding or 'drifting' the rear end out...so, you need to steer into the direction of the skid and reduce throttle.

Just be aware that this can happen in some situations.

In the same exact situation, the same exact vehicle with a standard open differential would spin one rear wheel, burning a hole in the ice, and the other rear wheel would barely move, if at all, and the vehicle might end up going nowhere fast. 

So the limited slip will get you going, but it is a good idea to be ready for this when (if) you travel on icy roads.

 

[MrNoodly]

I don't ever plan to go down some questionable narrow or rutty road.  I'll always take good dirt or gravel roads and, at worse, I'll drive maybe 50 yds. down something questionable to get out of view of the main road.

In that case, save your money.

The past seven years I've been boondocking all over the West on the types of roads you describe (sometime worse) in a van with a standard open differential -- which is essentially 1-wheel drive. The only places I got stuck were places where limited slips, lockers and 4x4s would also get stuck: loose sand and sloppy mud. Oh, and for most of those years I was on highway tires.

Hell, there have been a few times I've gone down sketchy tracks and encountered compact sedans cruising along. More often, I've come upon 4x4s buried to their hubs because the drivers thought they were unstoppable.

A better investment would be a good long-handle shovel. It's useful even if you never get stuck.

 

[Zephyr]

My experience with four wheel drive is that you can bury four tires quickly in mud. I did that with a road grader, all four drive wheels were always locked. I was trying to pull a stuck pickup out and sunk the grader up to it's cab. A long chain and a front end loader pulled us both out. A four wheel drive Jeep Wagoneer buried it's two passenger side wheels in mud. The left side wheels couldn't help. A chain and a four wheel drive IH Scout pulled it out. Also saw a big wheeled, mud tire equipped, four wheeled pickup bury itself in the mud after going ten feet. Sometimes you have to get a shovel, dig out underneath, place rocks under jacks and lift it up enough to place big rocks under the wheels. Maybe then with a tow you'll get free. If you think you will need a locker rear end to travel on a dirt road, even if it's dry, I wouldn't go there. My ideal four wheel drive vehicle would have computer controlled brakes that limited the slip of the low traction wheels. Then, never slow down until firm ground is reached. Momentum is your friend.