New Fuse Block immediately blows fuse

Van Living Forum

Help Support Van Living Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
On the fuse blocks you linked, there should be no negative wire to them. Only a positive in and a positive out for each fuse position.


Actually, you need a different type of fuse block, one that has a common positive bus for all of the fuses. But you can make a common positive bus for the one you have, you just need to hook up all of the terminals on one side all to the positive from the battery. In electronics this is called a 'shorting bar', usually a piece of metal made for the terminals you have. But you can do it with several short pieces of wire, either soldered or crimped. 

Then you will have several fused outputs. 

I drew this up to show you what I am talking about:

fuseblock.jpeg

(Edit: I see that my drawing and the other drawing are very similar and crossed paths at about the same time as far as when I opened up my reply window)
 

Attachments

  • fuseblock.jpeg
    fuseblock.jpeg
    20.1 KB
MrNoodly said:
Except you don't need to have the positive wire from the battery run through two fuses. The red line could've connected directly with the short jumper wires.

True. 

The bigger fuse is simply a tradition that I like.
 
If it helps you figure things out easier, think of an in-line fuse. You cut the positive wire and connect those two ends to the opposite ends of the in-line fuse holder. Current come in one side of the fuse and out the other. The negative (or ground) wire remains uncut, going directly from the thing that's being powered back to the battery (unless you have a spot where all the various negative wires connect to each other before returning to the battery). So the fuse block is just a series of in-line fuses, with one positive wire in and several positive wires out.(Of course, as in the diagram above, the incoming lugs need to be connected together unless you have a fancier fuse block that connects them all internally.)
 
Wooo hoooo!!!! That did it!!! You guys are SOOO AWESOME!!! I did it like your graphic, MrAlvin.. but directly opposite battery/lights.... and the lights all came right on!! I just have to remember this when I start hooking everything else up too now... I'll hook up the other wires tomorrow... I'm drained now LOL
 
ArmorAbby said:
Can I just buy another fuse block similar to this one for all my negatives?

The cheap and effective way is to put ring connectors on all the ends of negative wires, then put a bolt and nut through them all and cover the cluster with electrical tape.
 
There is a risk of insufficient surface area contact, higher resistance.

Rule of thumb is maximum 3-4 rings per post, and verify all are lying flat.

Not critical with low currents I suppose, but high-amp loads or sensitive expensive gear I would prefer to use the proper connection materials.
 
You do not need a fuse on the negative wires, only the positive side. You should have a fuse at the battery terminal on the positive wire going to the fuse block. If your battery negative is connected to the chassis, you can 'return' the negative by connecting to the chassis at the device. Do use wires back to the battery negative for any heavier loads such as inverters or your charging sources.
 
I didn't read this til now. I put in-line fuses from the battery to the fuse box positive side, and then again from the busbar to the battery negative side. Also the fuses in the fuse box itself and the fuses on the appliances themselves.
My inverter is hooked up on directly on the battery terminals, not part of this new fuse system.
 
Again, no fuses on negative, total waste.

All positive wires get fused near the battery, no exceptions. The fuse is to protect the wires from the battery in the event of a short.
 
Again, I did not read this til after I did it. I am not removing them. There is no harm leaving them there.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
 
Your inverter needs a fuse at the positive battery terminal. The harm with extra fuses on the negative wire is voltage drop. All fuses are resistance, that is how they work. I suggest you put high amp rated fuses on the negative side. How are you doing, Abby, as we get colder here in paradise?
 
Having a Buddy Heater makes a WORLD of difference. When I started last year I had no heat... I don't know how I did it! Cause this winter so far it's barely hit 20* some nights, no snow... and I don't wanna move without the heater on. Luxuries in life ;)

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
 
Top