New camper project

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I finished the floor today.

The floor did have a couple of soft spots. I may not have fixed it properly but it's solid now. I laid down some good thick subflooring ontop of the existing floor then covered it with laminate. I got a great deal on the supplies. $38 total for the floor.
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I have the sink area mostly framed and complete. I built the couch bed combo.

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highdesertranger said:
I tried an old propane fridge,  one without an electric control board.  it didn't sip propane it guzzled it and barely kept food at a safe temp in 90°F temps.  so just beware not everyone has this sipping propane experience.  highdesertranger
Usually the good old 3 way Electrolux (now Dometic) did, been looking for one since.
Very nice Dodge by the way.
 
Today I finally got around to replacing the front tires.

The date code on the tires were from 96. They were really dry and even though I've only driven it a few miles at at time my life flashed before my eyes every time.

The back tires are pretty old but have good tread. They are not cracked and I figure I'm going to leave them alone for a while. I'm alot less worried about the dullays in the back than I am bad steer tires.

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This is the tire I ended up using. I was pretty happy with $86 ea for 16.5 tires.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Power-King-LT8-75-16-5-Super-Highway-II-LT-Tires/54988376
 

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I was driving the motorhome to the house yesterday. The brake pedal hit the floor and would require several good pumps before maybe it would stop where I wanted. I tried to bleed the brakes but all the bleeders valves are sized and rusted. I ordered new calipers and pistons and will hopefully get them installed Monday. I did not see any signs of leaking but something is clearly wrong somewhere. 

I'm hopeful that the new parts will fix my problem. If not I guess I'll change the brake booster as well however at this time I think it's fine.

I have also done some painting on the inside and think it's starting to looks pretty good.

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You might want to also take a look at the master cylinder.
 
I certainly will replace it if the brake problem persists. I figure either way I'll need to be able to bleed the system so starting with calipers and pistons seems like a good starting spot.

I'm very good at breaking old rusty bleeders off lol
 
B and C said:
RV fridges are ammonia absorption cooled.  Cooling happens when the ammonia solution is heated.  Plugging into power is just one step.  On the front panel (inside) are the controls.  Mine is a three way and has a knob to select 12V (used while driving only), 120V (when connected to shore power) and gas.  You won't hear anything as there is an electric heater rod (kinda like an electric water heater) that heats the solution.  Depending on model, you may hear the spark striker trying to light the burner when turned to gas.  These fridges take about 24 hours to get to temperature.  You can get the model number off the fridge (usually on a label inside the fridge) and and get the manual off the internet to figure out how to work it.  If you go to a RV park, most anyone there could help you.

HDR - That musta been a really old one.  Mine is a 2000 Dometic (has a control board).

I read your post with interest.  I have no intentions of running it while I am driving down the road, but I was concerned about wind blowing out the pilot flame.  Since you talk about it running down the road at 60+ mph....I guess I don't have to worry about it blowing out with normal wind do I?
 
while I agree that you must be able to bleed the system, I also feel that it's best to diagnose what the problem is an not just start replacing parts willy nilly.

the pedal going to the floor is not the booster. I agree with Wayne it is more than likely the master cylinder.

I also believe stopping is more important than driving. you shouldn't be driving this vehicle.

highdesertranger
 
It does happen on occasion if high winds hits the vents just right. Turning the fridge off while you drive is not a bad idea unless you will be driving long hours. If your fridge has a 12V option, use that while driving and filling the gas tank.

Remember to extinguish all pilot lights and flames before filling vehicle with gas.
 
It will stay parked untill issue is resolved. I agree chaning parts Willy nilly is not the best way of diagnosing a problem. However I have no qualms about new calipers and pistons being installed.  Master cylinder is cheap enough if it ends up needing one. It's cold outside and it won't fit in my garage so it's gonna be a few days till I get to it but I'll be sure to post an update.
 
The brakes work again. It did end up needing a master cylinder.
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mr_elijah_gardner said:
It will stay parked untill issue is resolved. I agree chaning parts Willy nilly is not the best way of diagnosing a problem. However I have no qualms about new calipers and pistons being installed.  Master cylinder is cheap enough if it ends up needing one. It's cold outside and it won't fit in my garage so it's gonna be a few days till I get to it but I'll be sure to post an update.
Yup, When the pedal goes to the floor its almost always the master cylinder :)
 
This looks to be a good blank canvas on which to fit out to your choice.

Good result on the previous owner being a 'Diagnosis by Replacement' type, having spares of pricey electrical components is always helpful.

It may be worth checking the year of manufacturing on the tyres.

Looking forward to seeing your camper take shape. Subscribed.
 
I did look at the date codes on the new tires. They were about a year and a half old. I've heard of some 16.5 tires sitting on the shelves alot longer.
 
I did look at the date codes on the new tires. They were about a year and a half old. I've heard of some 16.5 tires sitting on the shelves alot longer.
 
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