NEED 2ND SOLAR PANEL ADVICE

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I have one free (pos/neg) slot ready for another panel on the battery. If all panels come like that, then yes, that's exactly what I will need, in fact I have one of those on my current panel! Just need a duplicate. I have nothing to compare mine with so those are called mc4's I'm understanding, right? Learned another piece of the puzzle, so thank you!
 
P.S. I still need another panel, but ANY will do right (150w)?
 
This is an MC4 connector:

MC4_Connectors_With_Wire.jpg

Yes, I think you can go with a 150 watt panel if that humless is rated for it, and can handle two unmatched panels.

If you buy a panel, make sure it has the MC4 connectors, and the above adapter or one like it should do the job for you.
 

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How old is your battery gadget?  

If it is more than 3 or 4 years old you might want to upgrade.  Batteries wear out.
 
GOTSMART, My lithium battery is about 5 yrs old and barely used.  It's fine/perfect. Battery life cycle rating of approx. 2,000 complete charge/discharges....I've maybe used 10 cycles or less.  I've been storing it. It has a battery shelf-life of 10 Years! (if well maintained which requires periodic charging)

Itripper, Yes, I too would like confirmed evidence that 13.8 max brings longevity to these batteries. I am speaking with the company now, and they say it's just the opposite. You should keep it stored charged at 100%, BTW,

John61ct you told me to store it at 50%, but the manufacturer says 100% for longevity. Is there any documented proof anywhere from an expert backing up all the bottom-line charge numbers scientifically? They say once it's fully charged to disconnect it, i.e., I can't keep it always plugged into the panels charging if that's my set up, like a roof I would suppose unless I disconnect it when it's fully charged.

I'm still learning about all this, but just want to see proof of everything if I can't prove it myself.
 
Shelf life ~~~  

I have read that the shelf life is between 3 and 10 years, depending on exact components.  

Something to look into.  

Panels can be used on anything, so they are a safe investment.

Buy panels with a top reputation only.
 
When the developer of my set up returns, they will email me the controller specs and confirm answers about me adding a 2nd panel, hopefully. The guy on the phone did say they cannot guarantee me using another panel that's not theirs, which I don't understand...
 
XFILE36 said:
When the developer of my set up returns, they will email me the controller specs and confirm answers about me adding a 2nd panel, hopefully.  The guy on the phone did say they cannot guarantee me using another panel that's not theirs, which I don't understand...

Sales BS.
 
Why b.s.? The customer service rep didn't have it.
 
tx2sturgis said:
This will adapt the mc4 connectors on just about any panel to the anderson port on that Humless.

Or are you already using that port?

Nice find!

Anyone actually wanting one, contact Genuinedealz as well and see what they charge for the equivalent.

This eBay seller's rep is good, but very thin, and s/he may skimp on the quality of the components.

GD only uses top-notch marine-rated wire and terminations, and will size the length to exactly what you need.

Also, I'm pretty sure the APP connector is direct to the batt, an input to the solar controller would likely be MC-4 already?
 
I notice at http://www.getpreparedstuff.com/mobile/product.aspx?ProductCode=hum-l-1500&Click=27

they offer an add-on panel for $320

Maybe you could find out if that would match your existing unit, get the specs, and-or learn about the connection point.

I'm getting more certain the Anderson connector would be OK for the Output of another solar controller, NOT to connect another panel to the Input of the built-in controller.
 
XFILE36 said:
When the developer of my set up returns, they will email me the controller specs and confirm answers about me adding a 2nd panel, hopefully. The guy on the phone did say they cannot guarantee me using another panel that's not theirs, which I don't understand...
No one will ever guarantee anything about connecting other vendor's components to an integrated system like this.

It is very unlikely any warranty from these guys is worth much anyway. How long since you bought it? What do you have in writing from them now wrt warranty issues?

IMO don't worry about it we'll do our best to keep you from frying anything.
 
John61CT said:
Also, I'm pretty sure the APP connector is direct to the batt, an input to the solar controller would likely be MC-4 already?
 
John, her humless pack is an all-in-one unit and we assume that the anderson inputs are going to the built-in charge controller.

Yeah, the ebay vendor is the first I found, and I did say that adapter 'or one like it'...
 
GotSmart said:
Buy panels with a top reputation only.
I disagree strongly.

That market has gone commodity if you want good value for money, in fact the best bargains are from outfits like that one in Florida flogging pallets of QC rejects.

The panels with top reps like Solbian can easily cost 5-7x current market rate.

IMO anything over $1.50/W for framed glass panels, or $3/W for the "semi-flex" portable ones is paying too much for top reputation.

Anyway, we need to figure exactly what type of panel is required first, before focusing on brands and vendor specifics.
 
On the back of each of my suitcase panels:

Open Circuit Voltage (Voc) 21.83
​Max Power Voltage (Vmpp) 18
​Short Circuit Current (Isc) 3.24
​Max Power Current (Impp) 2.78

That's all i have for now and I repeat that I'm not buying any controllers etc. NOW.. I will re-read the rest of the posts later.ty
 
John61CT said:
I disagree strongly.

That is your right.

For me maintenance is cleaning my panels only. 

Build it bulletproof the first time.  There will not need to be a second time.   :cool:
 
John61CT said:
John61CT,

"It is very easy to buy this stuff starting from scratch."

Bob already told you to just deal with the fact that I bought it and it's MY business not yours!  I basically told you that too before, and re-read my original post here...I DON'T WANT TO.  ARE YOU GOING TO BUY IT FOR ME?

"Again, you need the **detailed** tech specs on the panel and controller you already have if you want to add another panel to your existing unit's controller."

See my last post - done

"Now, it seems you may not be able to get those specs, at least from that vendor. From now on, don't buy stuff from vendors that aren't able to answer these basic type of queries."

AGAIN, SEE LAST POST:  I never remember asking you where I was allowed to spend MY HARD EARNED MONEY.  If I choose to throw it in the garbage dump that is NONE OF YOUR BUSINESS AND I DON'T NEED LECTURES FROM YOU!

"So, Plan B: I suggest just buy a new controller and panel(s), and put that in parallel to charge your existing battery."

I told you at least twice I am not buying a controller or anything NOW!!!!!

"For that, you need to tell us does the APP connector go to Input of the controller? Or is it directly connected to the battery (more likely IMO). You need the latter type for my latter Plan B suggestion, the former for your "just add a panel" idea."

The controller is integrated.  Did you even read the specs above that you asked me to list???  I don't know exactly where it is, but it's inside the casing somewhere!

"If this all seems too much for you, then I suggest you look for a good solar shop and bring your setup in to them, let them know what you need and let them fit you out?"

I came to this forum for help, not belittling me and my choices, or pressure to do it your way or the highway!  If it is too much for me, - why do you think I'm here?  For KIND HELP.

"You may pay a bit more for the handholding than you would DIYing with our help, but certainly you won't get as blatantly ripped off as with the Bakker crowd, and if you get good reco's from trusted people in your region you might find a great outfit, whose advice and help would be worth their weight in gold, do **not** begrudge paying them for their time, and/or letting them make some reasonable profit o. the stuff you buy."

If you can't be kind and helpful, call me handicapped because I don't know anything about the subject, why are you here.  Bob says this is a place for help.  If you want to call it handholding...why?  Why do you have to be so condescending??!  Again, Bob already told you to shut up regarding what I spent my money on!  I agree with him totally!  If you want to pay for good recos in my region, fine, but who do you think is going to pay for it?  I didn't mention  that I was buying ANYTHING except a connector and a panel.  Why lecture me on paying someone for their time and allowing them to make a profit??  First, I'm not going to a "reco" and second, why did you assume I would not want to pay someone for time and profit??

"A final idea, see what you can get for that existing "generator" on eBay, and then just get an integrated system put together to suit your vehicle at a recommended shop near you?"

WHAT?!  I am not selling my set up.  How arrogant/rude/condescending of you to try to pressure me into it!  Again, re-read my original post.  

"Or do the latter, and keep the existing unit as a standalone auxiliary unit you can put out in the sun when you prefer parking in the shade?"

That is the only thing in this particular comment that you wrote that is not laced with malice.  It still isn't helping solve my problem.  If you can't contribute here in a kind, helpful, uplifting way....I have enough stress right now and don't need to deal with more from you!
 
Not knowing exactly what you have (internally, not marketing lit), it's hard to recommend anything. If it has a MPPT controller, you want to match Vmp between the panels as close as possible for best efficiency, but a few tenths of a volt isn't a big deal. PWM is less picky, Vmp within a volt or so should be fine. Store at 100% is for lead-acid, not lithium. LiFePO4 can be charged to 98% with voltage as low as 13.6V, but it takes longer. Anything over that is a compromise between battery life and charge time, but recommendations have trended down from 14.2V to 13.8V over the past 5 years. Other lithium chemistries take different charge voltages.

Shelf life is best at 20% to 80% charge and temperatures between 0C and 20C (32F to 68F). A study on this is pointed to by my LiFePO4 resources page on my blog. Temperature makes more difference that state of charge.
 
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