My Path to (No)Madness!

[SoulRaven]

Great vid!! 
"Can......Hon-do what a Harley can?" 

 

[Motrukdriver]

Wait, I'm supposed to be retired! 

Retired is only a state of mind.  I think in actuality we get more busy when we don't have a daily job to go to.

 

[SoulRaven]

^ What he said. We get busier on things more fun, after retirement, so, end game is, we become far busier 

 

[NoMadYesHappy]

Retired is only a state of mind.  I think in actuality we get more busy when we don't have a daily job to go to.

I gotta say, that's how it's been so far.  Life should slow down after the build ... I hope! 

 

[tx2sturgis]

 Life should slow down after the build ... I hope! 

Yeah, only after the build will you have time to surf the net, post in this forum, and make youtube videos...

 

[NoMadYesHappy]

Yeah, only after the build will you have time to surf the net, post in this forum, and make youtube videos...

LOL! 

 

[tx2sturgis]

LOL! 

It's funny dude, and ironic....I'm also currently in the build-up phase of my new rig....I work on it several hours during the day, but then I take breaks, come inside the house, and check on YOUR progress....it's kind've a race, but you don't even know it!

 

[NoMadYesHappy]

It's funny dude, and ironic....I'm also currently in the build-up phase of my new rig....I work on it several hours during the day, but then I take breaks, come inside the house, and check on YOUR progress....it's kind've a race, but you don't even know it!

Oh, man!  That's even funnier!  Well, if it helps ... not much progress today ... painted up the bare wood before the rain hits tomorrow.  So you can open your lead up!  Now, I'm just sitting back and watching it dry.  It's much more exciting than it sounds ... NOT!

 

[tx2sturgis]

Oh heck, I'm way behind you.....I been trying to catch-up for months....

You got rid of the ball-n-chain homestead, and most of your stuff....mine is still here...dangit.

 

[NoMadYesHappy]

Oh heck, I'm way behind you.....I been trying to catch-up for months....

You got rid of the ball-n-chain homestead, and most of your stuff....mine is still here...dangit.

It'll happen, Bruh!  I've said this before, "If it's really a goal that someone wants to achieve, the likelihood of success is very high!"  I have FAITH, my Brutha!  Persistence!  Toe down a gear and twist that thing in your right hand!  [No, not THAT thing, the other thing! LOL!] 

The speed of my path to date has been compelled by other forces ... I didn't have any choice.  I think I would have preferred to have more time.  But, on the other hand, if I had the time, I may not have had the motivation to make the leap.  Now that I have [made the leap], I am quite happy to be here, in spite of the challenges.  I am really anxious to get the build done, and my fat hiney out there living instead of working for a change.

I think I have some catch-up in the fridge ... you want I should ship it to ya? 

 

[NoMadYesHappy]

#0036: "Pod One, Day Three" - 2018 March 9, Friday
Woke up sick; With Rachel's help, painted Pod One before the storm hits...

7 minutes 35 seconds

 

[NoMadYesHappy]

Not much going on today ... been rained out.
I'm taking the time to look at Solar Kits, 12V refrigerators, portable generators and stuff.

I am considering:

• A Ryobi Bluetooth 2,300-Watt Super Quiet Gasoline Powered Digital Inverter Generator RYI2300BTA
• A Renogy RNG-100Dx2 2 Piece 100W (200W total) Monocrystalline Photovoltaic PV Solar Panel
• A SolarEpic 40A MPPT Solar Charge Controller with MT50 Remote Meter + Temperature Sensor PC Communication Cable Set
• A Power TechON 2000W Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter 12V DC to 120V AC with 3 AC Outlets + 1 5V USB Port, Remote Switch and 2 Battery Cables (4000W Peak) PS1003
• A Whynter FM-62DZ Dual Zone Portable Refrigerator/Freezer, 62-Quart by Whynter
• 2, Universal UB121000-45978 12v 100AH Deep Cycle AGM Battery 12V

The solar setup, minus connectors, misc. hardware and various goops to keep rain out is about $1300+ if I buy the components and install it myself.  Oddly, there is no prominent solar company akin to Solar Bill's or Discount Solar in Quartzsite that I can find near the San Bernardino mountains.  I'd like to compare costs between a DIY job and a pro install.

Any one have thoughts [good,bad,ugly] on any of the above? ...costs for pro install, quality of the components chosen ... yada, yada?

Thanks!

 

[John61CT]

DIY except for the bits you really can't.


As much solar as your roof fits to cut down on running the genny.

Get a better bank, true deep cycle, will last many years cared for properly.

The best battery value by far is Duracell (actually Deka/East Penn) FLA deep cycle golf cart batteries, 2x6V, around $200 per 200+AH pair from BatteriesPlus or Sam's Club

 

[NoMadYesHappy]

Thanks!

 

[B and C]

I would add a proper shunt based monitoring system. IDK if this charge controller can take advantage of a shunt or not. With a shunt based charge controller, you can set end amps instead of a timer that may leave your batteries undercharged. A shunt based battery monitor will tell you if you have replaced all the juice you took out of the battery the night before and you can see how much juice you are pulling out of it at night. I use a midnight Kid with the WizBang Jr for the charger and a Trimetric 2030rv battery monitor. They both use the same shunt.

 

[Almost There]

I am considering:

[*]A Power TechON 2000W Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter 12V DC to 120V AC with 3 AC Outlets + 1 5V USB Port, Remote Switch and 2 Battery Cables (4000W Peak) PS1003
[*]A Whynter FM-62DZ Dual Zone Portable Refrigerator/Freezer, 62-Quart by Whynter
[*]2, Universal UB121000-45978 12v 100AH Deep Cycle AGM Battery 12V

[*]

Are you absolutely positive that you need that large of an inverter. The bigger the inverter the more the power draw it uses in and of itself. If there's only a few times a month or year that you're going to be needing huge amounts of electricity consider putting in a smaller inverter that's sized to handle the day to day loads and simply use power direct from the generator when you actually need the larger power draw. That 2000 W inverter is going to drain those 2 batteries inside of minutes.

Take some cardboard and build out the INSIDE measurements of each of the two sections of that 62 qt unit and then fill them with stuff like you would normally have in there. There's two of you consuming food out of the fridge/freezer. I know that my 65 qt is barely adequate for single me for a weeks worth of food and that doesn't include much meat because it's in the deep freeze.

Unless you're getting a really good deal on the batteries there are better batteries around. Although, since it's your first set, going cheap isn't a bad way to go since most people murder their first set anyways.

 

[NoMadYesHappy]

I would add a proper shunt based monitoring system.  IDK if this charge controller can take advantage of a shunt or not.  With a shunt based charge controller, you can set end amps instead of a timer that may leave your batteries undercharged.  A shunt based battery monitor will tell you if you have replaced all the juice you took out of the battery the night before and you can see how much juice you are pulling out of it at night.  I use a midnight Kid with the WizBang Jr for the charger and a Trimetric 2030rv battery monitor.  They both use the same shunt.

Thanks, B&C ...
I had the Blue Sky 3000i in my cart, but took it out because it was 70 bucks more than the one I listed above, and 30 bucks more for the battery temperature sensor ... so $100 more total.  But, it has the ability to use a shunt ... hmmm ... I'll have to give that more thought.  Automation is good!  Thanks for the input... VERY much appreciated! 

 

[NoMadYesHappy]

"Are you absolutely positive that you need that large of an inverter."

"I know that my 65 qt is barely adequate for single me..."

Unless you're getting a really good deal on the batteries there are better batteries around. Although, since it's your first set, going cheap isn't a bad way to go since most people murder their first set anyways.

I don't need that large of an inverter right out of the chute, but I am thinking ahead to a day when I can put 600 watts on the roof, maybe run a small microwave or power some tools ... but, you have a point ... maybe the short bursts of power needs are better served by the generator only.

I looked at the larger 95(?) quart dual zone, but it's upwards of $1000 ... 50% more cost for 30% more storage.  But, if you're stretched with the 65 quart, maybe I just need to bite the bullet and get the larger fridge.  What do you think about abandoning the dual zone idea ... it just seemed like a dual fridge/freezer zone was a high priority item ... maybe not?

$165 per battery.  Not a killer deal, but not as expensive as some others I've priced.  But, your point about shooting them in the head early in my learning curve is a valid thought.  My hope was that the MPPT charge controller would mitigate their early deaths ... but, I just don't have any background to draw upon to decide intelligently.  I basically flipped a coin and opted for cheap.  If, in the long run, they have to be replaced more often ... the initial cost offset for better batteries may be worth the long term quality gains.

Thanks VERY much for the input!  I'll have to some more noodling tonight.  I don't need to decide for a week or so ... so I have a little time leeway...

 

[B and C]

No need for the Trimetric as your charge controller will be inside your living space. Mine is buried in a basement, hence the Trimetric. A shunt based controller display should give you the info you need.

The big joke is the blinking light on the controller telling you everything is fine when it isn't on a lesser controller.

 

[Almost There]

I looked at the larger 95(?) quart dual zone, but it's upwards of $1000 ... 50% more cost for 30% more storage.  But, if you're stretched with the 65 quart, maybe I just need to bite the bullet and get the larger fridge.  What do you think about abandoning the dual zone idea ... it just seemed like a dual fridge/freezer zone was a high priority item ... maybe not?

I opted for 2 units, both 65 qt Whynters.

Keep in mind that I am a major carnivore....

Yes, 2 are a bit more than the 95 qt dual zone but I get the benefit of 130 qt storage space for almost the same money. And I figured that the 2 units still comes in cheaper than most 3 way RV fridges and it gets me more freezer space.

I found, when I was previously living on the road that with a small freezer in the RV or none in the vans I lived in, I had two basic choices...I could either buy a package of something like chicken breasts and find 4 or 5 different ways to eat them until they were gone OR I could find a grocery store with a butcher counter and then buy 1 of each of 4 or 5 different things. But even then I had to choose for dinner each night, not what I wanted to have but what I needed to use up first to prevent spoilage.

Since neither was about to keep me happy long term when full-timing on the road, having sufficient freezer space was as important to me as having a comfortable bed to sleep in.

Since you're outiftting a cargo trailer for two to live in comfortably, food storage is a big part of that IMO.

I have one unit under the bed with a lift lid on the bed for access and the other is on a slide out tray under the kitchen counter. I quickly found that it was easier to lift the bed lid to access what is used as a fridge than it was to slide out the other unit so it became the deep freeze.

It was also easier figuring out where to put 2 units than one hugeass big one. The 92 qt one, btw, when fully loaded will be extremely heavy...I figure the 65 qt deep freeze unit on the tray weighs in at something well over a hundred pounds! Something to keep in mind when designing the interior of the trailer.

Edit: Ooops, forgot that you're only planning on 200 w of solar and 200 A/H of batteries...not enough to comfortably run 2 65 qt units, maybe not even enough to run more than just a single purpose unit. I haven't measured accurately but ball-park figures are that the freezer uses 4 to 5 times the power that the same unit on fridge service uses. It makes sense - it's keepiing itself at 0 F as opposed to 40 F.