My new E-350 Extended van

[coultergeist]

After getting the inverter mounted it was time to run the cable from the battery bank to it.&nbsp; <br><br>The cable that runs to the inverter is 1/0 gauge.&nbsp; It attaches to the center battery to ensure optimum power transfer.&nbsp;&nbsp; The cables that come in from the two outside batteries are 2 gauge.&nbsp; <br><br>There will be a fuse on both the positive and negative line to the inverter.&nbsp; It is not here yet and I wanted to attach and test everything.&nbsp; They will be added in in a few days.<br><br>The second picture shows the connection on the back of the inverter.&nbsp; The power converter/charger will attach to the unused terminal on each block.

 

[coultergeist]

<p>While working on the inverter installation, I also got the foam battery box lining pieces cut and in place.&nbsp; <br><br>The first picture shows the pieces that go on the sides of the batteries.&nbsp; These are mainly there to ensure that the positive posts can't possibly come in contact with the side of the box.&nbsp; The box is rubberized on the inside but I felt it was prudent to provide as much protection against accidental shorting as possible.<br><br>The second picture shows the top piece that helps seal off the top of the box.&nbsp;</p>

 

[coultergeist]

This shows the finished installation.&nbsp; <br><br>The plug goes to feed the 50 amp receptacle by the back door of the van.&nbsp; When the inverters are going to provide 120 volt power (vast majority of the time) the power cord from the power panel will plug into the rear receptacle fed by the inverter.&nbsp; <br><br>When external power is available, the main power plug will be unplugged from the rear inverter fed receptacle and plugged into shore power with an 30 amp or 50 amp extension cord.

 

[Ballenxj]

All this and no sparks? SWEET! <br>BTW, look into a transfer switch for when you plug into shore power. The transfer switch should be capable of sensing outside current and kick your solar system out of the loop almost instantly. <br>-Bruce

 

[coultergeist]

Thanks Bruce. <br><br>I'm really glad to have that part done.&nbsp; I will look into power transfer switches.&nbsp; <br><br>I ordered my solar panels yesterday.&nbsp; I went to the amazon site to order the two 145 watt panel deal.&nbsp; They have slightly upgraded the panels.&nbsp; They are now 158 watts each.&nbsp; Should be here in a week or two and then I get to tackle that.&nbsp; <br><br>I will try to get as many small things as I can done in the meantime.

 

[psytechguy]

Everything's looking great!

Where'd you get those terminal blocks for your inverter?

 

[Ballenxj]

So instead of 290 watts, you will have 316? You are gonna be "Stylin." <img src="/images/boards/smilies/wink.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> <br>-Bruce

 

[coultergeist]

Thanks psytechguy.

The terminal blocks and the large battery cable connectors came from Home Depot in the electrical department. Neither Lowes that I looked at stocked either one.

They both made wiring and future upgrades much simpler.


Patrick

 

[coultergeist]

Hey Bruce.

Yes, should be a total of 316 watts for now. A little extra power never hurts. I'm still trying to figure out the best way to mount the panels to the roof. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Patrick

 

[Ballenxj]

Hi Patrick, I have thought long and hard on that subject. My thoughts for mounting solar panels on a standard van were to use a gutter mount roof rack and add aluminum channel across it spaced to accept the size panel you are using. I would also have mounted some sort of siding across each side so the solar panels weren't so obvious.&nbsp; <br>There is a thread here that also may be of interest to you. They glued the mounts on. <br>I'll have to search for that article. (It's on here somewhere) They said it worked well. <br>I don't know if you've seen this article as well.<br>http://cheapgreenrvliving.com/Solar_Installation.html <br>-Bruce

 

[Ballenxj]

Found it. <img src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> <br>https://vanlivingforum.com/post/Now-s-for-the-seasoned-camper-re.-roof-top-solar-panels-6334547 <br>-Bruce

 

[coultergeist]

Thanks for the links Bruce.&nbsp; <br><br>I'd love to do the ladder rack thing, but I don't think it will work on my van.&nbsp; The high top mounts in the gutter space.&nbsp; I don't think a regular gutter mount ladder rack will work.&nbsp; <br><br>The good news is the solar panels arrived over the weekend.&nbsp; I still have to order the cables and the charge controller for them.&nbsp; <br><br>Hopefully, that will be done before too much longer.&nbsp; <br><br>Patrick

 

[coultergeist]

While I was waiting on the solar panels to show up I worked on the blackout curtains for the back windows.&nbsp; I will have regular curtains on the curtain rails in each back window.&nbsp; <br><br>The black out curtains are in addition to the regular curtains.&nbsp; They will block out all light, but they will hang on the back side of the regular curtains.&nbsp; People casually looking in through the windows will see the regular curtains.&nbsp; The black out curtains will give the appearance of a dark van behind the curtains.&nbsp; <br><br>I am using black mover's blankets for the blackout curtains.&nbsp; They are thicker and their padding should serve as another layer of insulation.<br><br>The first picture shows the black out curtain rolled up and stored.&nbsp; The second shows it down and in use.<br><br>Bungee cords hold it in place when it is being stored.

 

[coultergeist]

I worked on the blackout curtain for the windshield and front side windows after I did it for the back doors.&nbsp; The picture shows it rolled up and stored.&nbsp; <br><br>I ended up messing up.&nbsp; I was trying not to use any more material than I had to.&nbsp; The curtain doesn't hang all the way to the floor and it is letting light be visible from underneath it.&nbsp; <br><br>I will take them down and turn the blankets so that the long side is up and down and add another two blankets.&nbsp; The result will be that the curtain hangs all the way to the floor and drapes over it.&nbsp; That should make sure that no light is able to be seen.&nbsp; <br><br>You can't always get it right the first time.&nbsp;

 

[Ballenxj]

Hey Patrick, That is a good idea using packing blankets for blackout curtains. What I'm really interested in is seeing how your solar system works when you finally tie the panels in. <img src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> <br>-Bruce

 

[coultergeist]

Thanks Bruce.&nbsp; <br><br>The blankets seem to work really well.&nbsp; I got a great deal on them at Harbor Freight during one of their sales.&nbsp; Ended up paying $20 for six of them.&nbsp; That's enough to cover everywhere that needs it.&nbsp; <br><br>I looked again at gutter mounts for a ladder rack to mount the solar panels.&nbsp; I think it could work with the right rack.&nbsp; The trick is how tall the top is.&nbsp; I think I could modify them to work.&nbsp; We will see.<br><br>Funds are kind of tight at the moment.&nbsp; Will be a few weeks before I can get the mounts.&nbsp; It is kind of frustrating having these big panels here and not being able to mount them yet.<br><br>Patrick

 

[Ballenxj]

I know the feeling about tight funds, but you'll get there. <img src="/images/boards/smilies/wink.gif" class="emoticon bbc_img"> <br>-Bruce

 

[coultergeist]

Thanks for the encouragement Bruce.&nbsp; I am hanging in there.&nbsp; Working on little things I already have the materials for.&nbsp; <br><br>Patrick

 

[coultergeist]

I worked on getting the ducting reworked for the rear heating and air conditioning today.&nbsp; The rear unit has one duct that went up to the ceiling for air conditioning and one than went down to the floor for heating.&nbsp; Both presented problems where they were. <br><br>The air conditioning duct exits from the unit under the bed.&nbsp; It will be rerouted with an insulated hose to a vent outlet in the cabinet on the driver's side.&nbsp; <br><br>The first picture is of the heating vent where it exits from the unit inside the cabinet.&nbsp; I looked for a good way to attach a hose to the outlet and just couldn't come up with anything useful.&nbsp; I had to get creative.&nbsp; <br><br>I decided to make the whole space one big duct.&nbsp; I lined the interior with reflectix and used high quality aluminum duct tape to seal up all the spaces.&nbsp; <br><br>The air conditioning hose will also come through this compartment and exit through its own vent.&nbsp; A separate vent will be used for the heater output.

 

[coultergeist]

This is the front cover for the vent compartment.&nbsp; One of the vents will be for the entire compartment.&nbsp; That should vent heating just fine.&nbsp; <br><br>The second vent which has the metal fitting attached to it is where the air conditioner hose will attach.&nbsp; <br><br>The vents are directional and can be opened or closed as needed.&nbsp; <br><br>I ran out of time today.&nbsp; I will hopefully get the air conditioner hose ran tomorrow and get all of it finished out.&nbsp;