Mr. Buddy vs. Camp Stove

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GrayWhale

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I'm digging the Camp Stove more now for heating. Much more versatile with the level of flame. And I can have hot water at the same time for drinking and the hot water bottle.

Someone here suggested this (and I bought one) for added safety:   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000CFP0F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Someone else suggested a cast iron skillet to retain the heat longer, so I'm going to look for a cast iron dutch oven or something.
 
Cast iron is great for cooking.

But very heavy and awkward, so if just for thermal mass,

a metal drinking water container full of boiled water does just as well but light and multi-purpose.

64oz beer growler is a good size, nice wide mouth.

For this purpose not the expensive super-insulated ones.

In a bag or old sock if putting down by your toes.
 
I've used a Coleman lantern for heat in the past. Wrapped aluminum foil around the globe so most of the light didn't bother me while sleeping. It was used in an uninsulated and drafty old van so I avoided being asphyxiated.
 
John61CT said:
Cast iron is great for cooking.

But very heavy and awkward, so if just for thermal mass,

a metal drinking water container full of boiled water does just as well but light and multi-purpose.

64oz beer growler is a good size, nice wide mouth.

For this purpose not the expensive super-insulated ones.

In a bag or old sock if putting down by your toes.

That's a good idea, to use a metal water container. Any chance of harmful chemicals being melted off though as I'll probably be getting them from Dollar Tree?


I still want to do the cast iron dutch oven though as it's also a good thing to have for cooking, camping, etc.  Also, if I kept boiling water whenever the stove is on for heat, I'd have way too much boiling water and the steam all over would be unbearable. I've never used a cast iron pot before, so what's the least that should be cooked in it so it wouldn't be ruined?
 
slow2day said:
I've used a Coleman lantern for heat in the past. Wrapped aluminum foil around the globe so most of the light didn't bother me while sleeping. It was used in an uninsulated and drafty old van so I avoided being asphyxiated.

I've tried a $5 kerosene lamp from Walmart and the fumes was just too much. Maybe the Coleman white fuel is much cleaner. And maybe the $5 lamp was junk also. When it was getting too cold, I had to turn up the wick but not to the point that it smoked a lot, but the fumes was still increased and I smelled like kerosene all over and so did the van for a few days. And it still wasn't close to enough to stay warm.

When I have electric hookup, I'd use a $10 hot plate on the floor, that puts out 900w. This works better than these space heaters: 1070w Tatung Heat Devil,   Pelonis heater 1175w, Lasko Ceramic heater 1311w.  What was about equal was the Presto Heat Dish 820w, but that thing looks and is the size of a satellite dish.
 
Well, the newer lanterns use LP cannisters so that would be better than messing with liquid fuel. Might burn longer and thus cost less than a Mr.Buddy, I dunno.
 
I used to fill a pressure cooker half full of water and heat it up till it was under pressure. Then put it down near my feet with a blanket over my lap.
 
> That's a good idea, to use a metal water container. Any chance of harmful chemicals being melted off though as I'll probably be getting them from Dollar Tree?

Wash well before using for drinking water.

Beware a cheap container full of boiling water opening unexpectedly.

> I still want to do the cast iron dutch oven though as it's also a good thing to have for cooking, camping, etc. 

Yes, googling gives lots of howto care fors.
 
GrayWhale said:
I've tried a $5 kerosene lamp from Walmart and the fumes was just too much. Maybe the Coleman white fuel is much cleaner. And maybe the $5 lamp was junk also.

Cold-blast lanterns (what kero lanterns are called) can run on some lamp oils, depending on flash point.  The best source of info I know of on this is here:
https://www.lanternnet.com/faqs.htm

Also, wick height and condition can make a big difference in smell and sooting.
 
frater secessus said:
Also, wick height and condition can make a big difference in smell and sooting.

Yea, I was working the wick height to as high as it could go (for max heat) before smoking profusely. But it still stunk like crazy. This was during the winter in the East Coast, and it wasn't even close to making much of a difference in generating warmth while I was wearing a ski jacket. Keeping the wick very low, put out less stink but then, hardly any heat. The kerosene was from Home Depot, so it's the cleaner type too.

I can see this working in the fall, but not the winter.
 
I was in Washington State one Junuary (Junuary: wet and very cold June) and it was almost raining inside the trailer with the humidity. I took my pressure cooker, filled it with water and put it on the stove at a temp low enough to keep any steam from escaping. It only took a couple of hours (it was small Allner) to dry the place up.
Ted
 
Please don't use open flame stoves or lanterns for heat in an enclosed space.  They put out a lot of carbon monoxide, which is odorless and bonds to the oxygen molecules in your blood.  Besides killing you quick with a large dose, it can be cumulative and kill you over a number of days. 

A Mr. Buddy heater puts out very little carbon monoxide, but a fair amount of water vapor. It still needs be be run with a vent open.  Even with that, it is a better choice for you health.  

Even better yet, a vented heater puts all the bad stuff outside.
 
Rainier70 said:
Please don't use open flame stoves or lanterns for heat in an enclosed space.  They put out a lot of carbon monoxide, which is odorless and bonds to the oxygen molecules in your blood.  Besides killing you quick with a large dose, it can be cumulative and kill you over a number of days. 

A Mr. Buddy heater puts out very little carbon monoxide, but a fair amount of water vapor. It still needs be be run with a vent open.  Even with that, it is a better choice for you health.  

Even better yet, a vented heater puts all the bad stuff outside.

Although not recommended for liability reasons, Bob says he's been doing this for over 7 years or something w/o a problem. Just like with any propane devices, I'd have 1-2 windows cracked open, CO detector and never sleep with it on. 

Similar to a Mr. Buddy, I wouldn't leave it on for a long time neither as it gets too hot.
 
Step one, good insulation and well controlled ventilation.

Tiny portable camp stove designed for big heavy pots, so stable, and with fine "simmer" adjustability.

Good place to put it.

Large pot of water (or empty but heavy cast iron one) above for thermal mass.

Evening, crack window or vent, turn on the gas and adjust to get warm, then turn way down to just maintain.

Water gets warm then hot eventually, if boils turn off for a while, can close venting.

Before bed, fill up water bottles, one last top up, bring to just before boiling, turn off close up vents, go to bed.

A big Insul-Bright "tea cozy", like from oven mitt material, helps slow down heat discharge from the thermal mass.

In the morning use the water for porridge and tea.

At some point every once in a while really blast the heat and vent well, so much condensation going on.

A Propex or Webasto really is so much better, but the above will get you by even in the snow while you save your pennies.
 
ANY burning device requires ventilation. After that it is just which works out better for you. We use to use the stove or lantern but never left them running if we were out or asleep
 
Rainier70 said:
Please don't use open flame stoves or lanterns for heat in an enclosed space.  They put out a lot of carbon monoxide, which is odorless and bonds to the oxygen molecules in your blood.  Besides killing you quick with a large dose, it can be cumulative and kill you over a number of days. 

A Mr. Buddy heater puts out very little carbon monoxide, but a fair amount of water vapor. It still needs be be run with a vent open.  Even with that, it is a better choice for you health.  

Even better yet, a vented heater puts all the bad stuff outside.

This is very true. I tried it and it killed me the first week. 

Only my knowledge of White Magic allowed me to come back to earth for the last 15 years while I continue to do it. But if you don't have magic like I do, you will die the first week.

Obviously, I am being tongue and cheek.  While I fully respect the intention of your warning, I disagree with it. After 15 years of using a stove in a vehicle for heat, I am going to continue to do so.
 
The reason I like the Propex / Webasto option is all the combustion completely happens outside the living space.

Much more efficient and quieter than the US RV standard furnace.

But all these are fine to run with the living space sealed up tight, all night if desired off a thermostat.

I would still use vapor, low O2 and CO alarms though.
 
That is:

I would still use propane, low O2 and CO alarms.
 
A lot of people don't realize that home ovens that run on gas also puts out carbon monoxide. Sometimes even brand new ones. And rarely do people vent their kitchen, say in the cold winter or hot summers (when the heat or a/c are on).



 
Homes usually are not as tightly sealed, nor as small in cubic area as our vans.

If people regularly fell asleep in their tiny tightly sealed up kitchen with the gas stove going as their heat source, building regs would be very different.

And personally I often use the vent directly above my stove when cooking.
 
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