Metal walls and floor ok??

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DanielP

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Considering a 7x16 all aluminum cargo trailer that was used for Kart racing.  It is insulated,  but has white metal walls, ceiling, and diamond plate floor.   Are metal walls okay for doing a build, attaching wood cabiinets, bed, etc,  or if I get should I plan on removing the metal walls and replacing with wood for build purposes.  Would also have to do something  about the floor, covering over perhaps.   Any tips or experience building in a metal walled trailer appreciated.  its a 2006, but at $4K seems reasonable.
Dan
 
I would keep the interior metal walls and be sure to mount cabinets and such to the ribs, the same as you mount heavy things to building studs rather than wallboard.
 
It is difficult to give accurate advise for attaching loads to the walls without knowing how the trailer was engineered. Meaning does it have structural metal ribs, stringers, inside of the walls? If it does have them inside of the walls then that is what you want to screw into. Screwing into the thin sheet metal wall covering on the interior won't work for securing heavy loads such as cabinets, bed frame, etc.

It really is similar to installing cabinets in a house where you make sure you screw into a stud rather than screwing into drywall.
 
The following add was found in the first minute of searching my local craiglist. $4200 for a 2019 7x16 v-nose high top.

$4000 for a 2006 seems a bit high.
 
Homesteader 7x16 Enclosed Trailer w/ Double Rear Doors - $4199 (Tegtmeyer Trailers - Wilmington, OH)
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© craigslist - Map data © OpenStreetMap
7970 State Route 68 North
(google map)

condition: new
make / manufacturer: Homesteader
model name / number: INTREPID
paint color: white
year manufactured: 2019
The Homesteader 7x16 Enclosed Trailer is white in color. The trailer has 7000 gvw, double rear doors, stoneguard, and side door. The trailer is a Intrepid (formerly Patriot model).

INTERNET PRICES ARE CASH OR OHIO CHECK ONLY.

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3,500 lb. Spring Mounted EZ Lube Drop Axles
Contemporary Style Steel Modular Wheels
15" Trailer Rated Tires
Electric Brakes (Tandem Models Only, Both Axles)
Breakaway Kit with Battery, Charger, and Battery Indicator Light (Tandem Models)
Heavy Duty All Steel Boxed Frame Body
Tubular Wall and Roof Crossmembers 24" O.C.
Floor Crossmembers 24" O.C. Single (16" O.C. Tandem)
Exterior Fasteners 6" O.C.
6' High Sidewalls on 6' Models & (5'6" on 5' Wides)
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Flat Roof
High Tech Roof Sealant
Aluminum Fenders
2' V- Nose
Automotive Quality Gaskets & Seals
24" ATP Stoneguard
LED Tail Lights
Double Bulb Sealed Marker Lights
32" Side Door
D.O.T. Compliant Lighting
D.O.T. Compliant Conspicuity Tape
Double Rear Doors ( Single Door on 5' Wide Models)
Interior Light
3/8" Plywood Interior Wall Liner
3/4" Exterior Grade Plywood Flooring
Heavy Duty Exterior Trim
Aluminum with Baked Enamel Finish
2" Coupler on single axle models
2 5/16" Coupler on Tandem axle models
2000 lb. Top-wind Tongue Jack
20 Year Manufacturer Warranted Galvalume Roof
NATM Certified

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Sloped Vee Nose
Rear Ramp Door
Transition Plate
D-Ring Tie Downs
Spare Tire and Wheel
Roof Vents
Chrome Wheels
Dome Light
Porch Light
110V Light Switch (Interior)
Flow Thru Sidewall Vents
Ladder Racks
Rear Stabilizer Jacks
Available in Five Colors


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Hey,

I was literally thinking the exact thing, 7x16 CTC and use metal but I am concerned about condensation during lower temps. Of course I will do all I can to refresh air and use dehumidifying strategies but I will likely not go the metal route in the end.
 
You did see the orginal poster stated "all aluminum trailer" which are almost double the price of steel trailers with aluminum boxes, see for example Feather Light trailers which are almost half the weight of a steel trailer. If you will be towing mostly on smooth pavement pulling light loads (like a go cart) they can be pulled with a much smaller tow vehicle and have a really good reputation.
 
DanielP said:
[edited for brevity]

...Considering a 7x16 all aluminum cargo trailer...It is insulated...Are metal walls okay...Would also have to do something  about the floor, covering over perhaps.   Any tips or experience building in a metal walled trailer appreciated...

[snip]

*****
Dan,
We are converting another semi-trailer to our concept of a full-time live-aboard.
The walls, roof, and floor are aluminum.

It was a reefer.
We removed every scrap of insulation right down to bare metal.
That old insulation was saturated with moisture and odors, so it hit the Dumpster.
Nobody is predicting your retired racer would reek if you live inside with the windows shut, but let's consider that as a possibility.

Based on our experience with metal boats, the key to reducing condensation -- insulate the hull.
The other key to reducing condensation -- ventilate.
Keep the air moving!

2003, we converted a 1997 Ford CF8000 commercial truck to our concept of an ExpeditionVehicle.
Although the box is composite instead of your (potential...) aluminum, we can occasionally experience condensation if the windows are nearly closed.
Accordingly, we 24/7 have opposing windows open at least a half-inch each.
Leaving for the day, we open the windows further.
 
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