<p>Had trouble getting my RV to kick over. its a chevy G30 van chassis from 1985 with a carbureted V8 350 engine. At first i thought it was one of the distributor cables lose or something but got the engine cover off and checked everything was Solid. I<span style="color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 24px;"> was able to get it to kick over by spraying starter fluid directly into the carb. However it </span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 24px;">wouldn't</span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 24px;"> run for longer </span><span style="font-size: 15.555556297302246px; line-height: 23.981483459472656px;">than</span><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 24px;"> a second or 2. so i think its fuel related... maybe the fuel pump. either that or my gas </span></span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 24px;">gauge</span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 24px;"> is lying to me and </span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 24px;">i'm</span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 24px;"> out of gas. </span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 24px;">Also at one point i think i sprayed a little to much starter fluid in there and it kicked back and set the starter fluid on fire. i hope that is a minor thing and nothing major... knowing my luck its something major. i was able to get it to kick over again after that so i </span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 24px;">don't</span><span style="color: #333333; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 24px;"> think i did any permanent harm. Just wondering if you guys had any idea's as to what this might be? I would have tried more but the battery was low and started giving out.<br /><br />-Wes-</span></p>
Mechanical Issues,
- Thread starter wesmagyar
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sparky1
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there are several places along the fuel lines from the tank to the engine that might be (rubber) which might be bad/sucking air. replace them-& filter which might be along the right hand frame.<br />sparky1 in s.va.
ParadiseParrot
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The kickback and fire are normal for what you were doing.<br />Fuel is not getting to the carb. Get a Chilton's manual and follow the system back to find your problem.<br />Something is clogged or a sensor is shot or your pump is done.
I'm pretty sure that the fuel pump on that model van is still on the engine. Get under it and see if there is any sign of gas leaking from the "weep hole" on the pump itself. Like a wash of the dirt around the hole or gas itself. That indicates a need for a fuel pump. Setting the engine on fire is not good but as long as it still cranks and none of the wiring around the fire or any rubber hoses (mostly vacuum lines) are melted. If the fuel pump is the mechanical one on the block, they are relatively cheap and a lot easier to replace that the electric ones in the tank. Good luck. I'm pretty sure that you should be able to fix this problem easy enough. One thing I used to do to test this out was to use a container (bottle) of gas with a hose to the fuel inlet line and a siphon method to run off the gas in the bottle and just crank it with a shot of gas in the carb to get it started. if it will start and run like this, it is generaly always the pump. Be careful not to spill gas all over when connecting the hose from the bottle to the carb or wait till it evaporates before starting the engine.
gadgetMe
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I would think is a fuel problem also, since it ran on either, having a backfire was because you had too much either in the cylinders.<br /><br />Try adding a small amount of gas down the carburator, cank over see if it runs, you can dribble a little more fuel while running and see if keeps going a little more<br /><br />If so, you have a fuel delivery problem, <br /><br />The 350 small block motors have the fuel pump located on the passenger side of the block on the lower front. Follow the fuel line from the carburetor to the pump you will see it. <br /><br />In most cases the diaphragm in the pump will tear or get a small hole, sometime it will leak other times it will not.<br /><br />To check if the fuel pump works, disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor, put a small plastic bottle on the end, turn the engine over for about 15 seconds, if it squirts fuel into the bottle the fuel pump should be good, if it is pumping, your fuel filter is probably plugged.<br /><br />If you have no fuel pumping, the causes are usually a failed fuel pump, or crack rubber hose that hooks to it, check the rubber hose for cracks, (causing it to suck air instead of fuel).<br /><br />Replacing the fuel pump can be a little tricky, as there is a rod (that follows the camshaft) & drives the lever of the pump.<br />When installing the rod need to be held up (with a small screwdriver) while installing the pump.<br /><br />Hope this helps<br />Putz
<p>Talked with the original owner of the RV and he thinks it was the fuel pump as well as he said it was "weak" and on its way out. He said there was a new fuel pump in one of the cabinets. Sure enough i dug around and found it. So will try to get that in shortly and see if it makes a difference. on a side note i may have found part of the reason its been running rough and why my gas mileage may suck...</p><p> </p><p><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-...AIm0/IakLTFWrENY/s512/IMG_20121106_125108.jpg" alt="" /><br /><br /><br />Spoke with my father and he said they haven't been called Delco-Remy since like 1989... so yeah... that thing is older then dirt (in case it isn't evident that is the distributor cap)</p>
highdesertranger
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wes, i would try the filter first. its in the carb body make sure you use two wrenches when removing. this is very important. also remember the carb body is aluminium so be careful do not overtighten when reinstalling. i believe the wrenches are 1 inch and 5/8. a line wrench should be used on the line side. also check to see if a there is a second filter inline many oldtimers do this my truck has three(2 tanks). also check the rubber lines like sparky said. if you end up changing the pump there is a bolt on the front of the block that holds the lower smog pump bracket to the block. remove the lower bolt and put one in with longer thread this only has to be finger tight. this will hold the fuel pump rod in place. then when the fuel pump has been install remove this bolt and install the original put a small amount of silicone sealer on the threads when replacing the bolt. also when trying to explain a starting problem like you have say that "my motor is turning over but will not start". when you say it will not kick over it sounds to a macanhic like it will not turn over ie dead battery, etc. highdesertranger
Well checked the filter it appeared to be ok, Proceeded to try and replace the Fuel Pump and well the Bolt into the fuel pump on the Fuel line that goes to the carburetor is damn near fused to the line. Try as we might to get it off its just rounding the nuts corners. Looks like the idiot that installed it used locktite or something on it. Put some Liquid wrench on it and am letting it sit and work its magic overnight... but its looking grim. I checked and none of the auto parts stores or junk yards anywhere near where i live have that fuel line... so not sure what the hell im going to do... My roommate thinks we can macgyver a fix using some thermal tape and a rubber fuel line if needs be but sounds kind of risky to me. But at this point not sure what my options are...
You can't really tell how plugged a gas filter is by looking at it. I suppose you could run gas through it to see if it's clogged but since they are pretty cheap, you should go ahead and replace it. That way you know you're good for the next 12-15K miles.<br /><br />If you're checking at a typical chain auto parts store for the fuel line, they may be looking on the computer for a direct-fit and not find one. The line and fittings should be pretty standard stuff that you can get matched up at a real AP store like NAPA.<br /><br /><a href="http://autorepair.about.com/od/tools/a/tools_line-wren.htm"><br id="tinymce" class="mceContentBody " /><br /></a>
missmillpl
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Have you check the jets in the carb yet it could be that they are clogged also. Had a 68 mustang that would clog whenever it felt like it. That was pretty simple just take note of the setting and unscrew it then clean out ( I could usually just blow mine out) then replace be careful not to tighten to much when replacing it, you may have to make a few adjustment by turning screw a bit to get it back to good idle.
travlinman and wife
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with locktite propane torch works to soften it up but be carfule you are working close to gas.
gadgetMe
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The steel line that attaches to the fuel pump and runs to the carburetor is a flair nut which can get pretty tight, in most cases a flair (5 sided wrench) is used to get them loose, since it is probably too late for that, the next thing to do is to see if you can get a vice grip tight on the nut and break it loose.<br /><br />If that is impossible to do then I would use a hack saw and cut the line (close to the pump) in order to remove the pump.<br /><br />To make a new fuel line, purchase a 3/8 inch steel brake line from the parts store and use the old line as a pattern, bend the new line the same..<br /><br />Use the flair nut to attach the line at the fuel pump, cut the other end at the carburetor, add a 3/8 inch piece of fuel line and a couple of clamps.<br /><br />If you have the tools the carburator end , a flair tool could be used to make a new flair with nut on the connection to the carb.<br /><br />I know this is probably a little late in the game, hope it helps.<br />Putz
Well forgot to update on here but got the fuel pump issue solved a couple days ago. I was able to buy a Steel fuel line blank from Autozone and borrow a line bender from them. Got everything running perfectly, and it cost less then $10. Also appears we were able to fix my generator today too. Found out the points where worn out. We used a piece of sandpaper to clean them. A new set of points are stupidly Expensive because it looks like they arent made anymore. Im going to buy a replacement set as soon as i can just as backup but right now the genny is running fairly well!<br /><br />-Wes-
highdesertranger
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glad to here it worked out wes. hope you changed that fuel filter while you had it out. highdesertranger
<p>Yeah we did, i also recorded a video of it running that i made for my blog. its running ok, it smokes a bit but my roommate thinks that's because the either the timing is slightly off or the carburetor needs adjusting. But for now its running and that's what matters. Also in the video if you pay attention to when i record under the RV the 2 puddles are from the brakes and the transmission the brake fluid is the one closest to me. it is leaking from the main reservoir. the transmission appears to be leaking from the pan. hopefully will get both fixed soon.</p><p> </p><p><a href=""></a></p>
