Looking At Purchasing This Van: Any And All Help Appreciated!

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I didn't see the year anywhere, but everything I saw made me think it was great. Depending on the year, I would jump on it if it is in your price range. Dodge is a good van and the 360 is a great engine.<br /><br />The big Dodges do have a problem with a wandering front end. You have to work at it to keep them going straight down the road. When you test drive it get it up to speed on the freeway and pay close attention to how it steers.<br /><br />Be sure to get it checked out by a mechanic first. If he passes it I would buy it. Class Bs really hold their value and that seems like a very fair price. Bob
 
you can probably have a steering damper installed for the front end; it is a horizontal shock with two connectors ....<br /><br />blkjak ....
 
I like that a-lot <img src="/images/boards/smilies/wink.gif" alt="" align="absMiddle" border="0" />
 
That is actually a pretty low price for a Class B that outwardly appears to be in good condition, and with only 54k miles.<br /><br />It would make me suspicious that something major was wrong with it, like the transmission, or it smells like the black tank and a dead rat combined.<br /><br />It should have the A 518 overdrive transmission which are pretty beefy but are pretty highly stressed in such a heavy vehicle that has the aerodynamics of a barn door.&nbsp;<br /><br />&nbsp;If the transmission was ever serviced, by a non dodge dealer, it is likely they did not use the correct fluid which is atf+4. &nbsp;Any other tranny fluid will cause major issues within 10k miles, if not instantly. &nbsp;Tranny shops boost their bottom line by using their bulk/ universal transmission fluid in everything and add a friction modifier that supposedly brings it up to the right specs. &nbsp;This does not work with ATF+4, which is an expensive synthetic &nbsp;high quality transmission fluid. &nbsp;Bulk Dexron with a friction &nbsp;modifier does not work and any shop that says it does is dishonest.<br /><br />But even if you have to put another 2 k$ into a rebuilt transmission, it is a pretty good price, if the generator and AC unit and fridge and plumbing actually work.<br /><br />The reports scary wandering &nbsp;on the highway are true and many claim to have remedied them by wheel spacers on the rear axle, Bilstein shocks, stepping up a load range on the tires, and a proper alignment from a&nbsp;reputable&nbsp;truck shop, not a 50$ coupon special you found in the paper.<br /><br />In my experience the steering stabilizer does little except reduce bump steer, but I have an earlier dodge with a badly remanufactured (loose) steering gear, but a freshly rebuilt suspension with new beefier coil springs and rear air bags.
 
it is not for me... But if i were the type to be inside allot this would be a great van... Remember to have a mechanic at a dealership do an extensive inspection of it and get a written report... The reason for a dealership is that they will give you an independent inspection, where as a mechanic friend of the seller may not...
 
ask Him what the Bottom figure is he will take---(tag) shows he's a WW2 Vet,-thank him for his service.personally it looks Nice. <br />My 2 cents.<br />sparky1 in s.Va
 
If you do not expect fantastic gas mileage, you won't be dissapointed. My 99 ram 3/4 ton with the 360 got 13 mpg EMPTY. It is a nice van, and if all is as advertised, the price is decent, but as suggested, dickering on the price won't hurt. Try doing a NADA search to do a price comparison.
 
Thanks everyone!<br /><br />Any guesses about what the van is worth? I took a look at it yesterday and it seems in good condition. The owner left it sitting for a year however and already had to do some fixes. Waiting on what the mechanic says.<br /><br />It also has that old car smell but I assume&nbsp;that's&nbsp;to be expected.
 
i would offer him $2,000 less and hoped that it would be accepted ....<br /><br />then $1,000 less ....<br /><br />then ....<br /><br />however if it is in very good condition with the low miles it has i would pay full price ....<br /><br />blkjak ....
 
Blkjak,<br /><br />I planned to but good to know it is worth it at full price.
 
Mechanic gave the okay. Bought it earlier this morning. I am happy with the purchase.<br /><br />The main things I need to adjust is to get a&nbsp;separate&nbsp;battery for electricity. The van only has a 12 volt and the outlets only work when hooked up.
 
Good for you!!
Dont really understand the rest though... The 12v outlets only work through the CONVERTER when they are hooked up....to 110v AC outlet?? Check the house battery before you chuck it... Could be as simple as a rusty or lose ground, or as major as needing a new inverter/converter if it was partly fried cause it was plugged into 50 amp or overdrawn on 20 amp. Enjoy it for a few days and do some hunting around. A friend was going to get a new battery because jets didnt work on her pleasureway class B. Turned out the problem was a short when she backed into a stump and bashed her trailer hitch wiring.
 
From what I understand all the outlets work only when I am hooked up and the 12 volt batter only works for the lights.&nbsp;<br /><br />If I correct this, is 12 volt enough to run general electronics with a converter?
 
a 12 v battery will run 110vac devices through an INVERTER. a converter goes from 110 to 12v Dc. The simple answer is- it depends on the size and condition of the battery, the size of the invertef ( in watts) and how much power ( in watts) the item you want to power requires, at start up or full load ( wattages can be different- motors require more power to stsrt up than they do to run , for example) Add up everything you will want to run all at once, add a bit more
for parasitic losses and use an inverter that size, most small household stuff will work with a relativly small 400 or 800 watt inverter, but even a 700 w microwave will need a 1000 or 1500 w inverter.
 
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