Lightweight Foamie 4x8 Trailer, self built Bug Out Trailer

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My challenges are the desire to cover the roof in framed solar panels, 200+lbs, and

ideally a roof shell that can raise for extended stays and lowers for streamlined travel.

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/product-p/ww-slidavan.htm

At this point thinking framing in aluminum profile and just skinning/infill with foam/PMF.
 
So George, if you were to build a 7*12 *6.5 foamie trailer, how would you build it?
The ones that I have seen either build a wood frame stuffed foam with luaun skins.
The issues are roof strength to support solar, minimal framing to reduce weight.
 
Minivanmotoman said:
So George, if you were to build a 7*12 *6.5 foamie trailer, how would you build it?
The ones that I have seen either build a wood frame stuffed foam with luaun skins.
The issues are roof strength to support solar, minimal framing to reduce weight.

I would just build a regular foamie and then add the structure that I described in your PM. George.
 
ghcoe said:
I would just build a regular foamie and then add the structure that I described in your PM. George.

ghcoe, for the interested public, can you provide a quick idea of this added, solar panel supporting structure?
 
I would frame with steel or aluminum, then enclose with foam PMF.

The roof rack tracks - IMO RhinoRack from eTrailer - would through-bolt to the roof rails parallel below, bedded in marine quality Butyl.

Insignificant thermal bridging, no depending on foam for carrying loads.
 
martin17773 said:
ghcoe, for the interested public, can you provide a quick idea of this added, solar panel supporting structure?

Yes. The simple way is to embed a 1"x2" or 2"x2" into the roof at attachment locations. I have not done this yet myself, but plan to in the future for not only solar panels, but also for a roof rack.

So for most people the idea would be to channel out the foam just slightly larger than the lumber being used. Ideally I would channel wide enough to have the side walls support the lumber, but not channel all the way to the roof edge. This would make for a cleaner roof edge when canvasing, but the channels could extend to the edges for simplicity. A hot wire setup would be ideal for this, but a circular saw set at the proper depth with a few passes would work as well.

Then take the lumber being used for embedding and screw some scrap 1x2's to one side of the lumber. These scraps will lay across the top of the roof to hold the embedded lumber flush with the roof line during glue up. I would do these at least one on each end and one in the middle of the embedded lumber. More if needed to keep the lumber completely flush across the roof line.

Now there is two ways to do the glue up. If you use Great Stuff, I would place the lumber into the channel and then spray into the channel on each side of the lumber to fill the voids. Some weight will need to be applied to the lumber because great stuff may try to push up on the lumber in the channel. Once dry unscrew the lumber pieces used to hold the embedded lumber flush and remove. Then take a razor knife to cut back the Great Stuff that has expanded out. Then you can sand smooth to the roof line. If there is still some voids use Dap Light Weight Spackle to fill and sand smooth.

If you choose to use caulking. Fill the bottom of the channel with liberal amount of caulking. Enough so that when you install the lumber you are embedding that the caulking will squish up the sides of the lumber a bit. Once the lumber is installed finish filling what might need to be filled on the sides of the embedded lumber. The idea with caulking is that you don't want it to come out above the roof line. You want it to be slightly below the level of the roof. Once the caulking is dry, it will take a long time, remove the lumber used to hold the embedded lumber flush. Then fill the slight void you left up with Dap Light Weight Spackle and then sand smooth. You are now ready to canvas.

The reason why we don't want caulking up to the surface is because it is difficult to sand. The Dap Light Weight Spackle has a similar sanding consistency to foam.
 
John61CT said:
I would frame with steel or aluminum, then enclose with foam PMF.

The roof rack tracks - IMO RhinoRack from eTrailer - would through-bolt to the roof rails parallel below, bedded in marine quality Butyl.

Insignificant thermal bridging, no depending on foam for carrying loads.
I would be concerned with thermal expansion rates between the aluminum and foam.  I woiuld guess the foam would compress with temperature change but I have no idea how much.  One reason to channel wood is to prevent seam/joints showing because of this.  Just something to think about when using materials with ratically different expansion rates. Maybe an external metal rack built around the foam box would work. Sort of like a truck ladder rack.
 
bullfrog said:
I would be concerned with thermal expansion rates between the aluminum and foam.  I woiuld guess the foam would compress with temperature change but I have no idea how much.  One reason to channel wood is to prevent seam/joints showing because of this.  Just something to think about when using materials with ratically different expansion rates. Maybe an external metal rack built around the foam box would work. Sort of like a truck ladder rack.
My idea is a free-standing metal frame inside, with the continuous foamie shell outside. The metal is not embedded in the foam, so I can't see the differential expansion being an obstacle.

Yes the metal framing could be outside, but I see that as less attractive, more complex, and less functional, taking away more internal space.
 
Fewer holes, less stress and wear, metal cage protecting the water tight foam box, no water leaks to the in side makes it beautiful on the inside where you sleep and the load you carry won't affect the foam box at all. Form follows function, paint makes it pretty. Ha!!!
 
I have an axle and hubs that would work for a foamie build. I just got a new frame built for my vintage travel trailer so I don't need it. The metal of the frame is going to the recycler as are the tires and rims but the axle is OK.

It is in Seattle, price is $5.00, I could use a cuppa Joe ;).
 
I'm all for the bug-out concept.  One of the pages on my first website below is about setting up a bug-out car.

That's a nice build that you can be proud of.  Only thing I'd do in addition would be to get a  4.5 X 8.5 sheet of .020 aluminum to cover the top with.  6 inches drop down at the front and 3 inches on both sides. (rear not so necessary)

The bottom would be a 4 X 8.5 with a 6 inch lip at the front. (sides and back not so important)

Some of the Trailers i've looked at  like the Terry Taurus Trailers had an all one piece aluminum roof and the bottom was covered in three pieces of aluminum similarly.  

That's a lot of work and this little extra cost could greatly extend the life of the build. 

I like your build  :thumbsup:
 
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