Foam Trailers

Van Living Forum

Help Support Van Living Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
The only manufactured trailer that the foamies come close to is the " Trailmanor" they are made of foam and skinned with a thin exterior and interior aluminum . Even the countertops are lightweight.

George, I think you are on to something that will be affordable to the masses. KEEP IT UP !!! Looks great and the videos of the bugout trailer is great
 
Burbanlife said:
The only manufactured trailer that the foamies come close to is the " Trailmanor"  they are made of foam and skinned with a thin exterior and interior aluminum . Even the countertops are lightweight.  

George, I think you are on to something that will be affordable to the masses.  KEEP IT UP !!!  Looks great and the videos of the bugout trailer is great

Thanks!

I think fomies will grow in popularity once some good builds get out there that people can see. Everyone loves the topic of a light weight trailer, but when you mention they are made of foam and canvas it's a show stopper.
 
It seems strange to me that canvas tents and popups have been so popular you would think "improved, reinforced, water tight canvas would be too. Fiberglass was slow to be accepted but now seems preferred, maybe since this method is so much cheaper and so sturdy it will be to someday also. I think using aluminum screen between the foam and canvas for a huge strenght improvement with little additional weight bears some looking into as well.
 
bullfrog said:
 I think using aluminum screen between the foam and canvas for a huge strenght improvement with little additional weight bears some looking into as well.

There is a person on the TnTTT that is using the screen for covering with lapping compound. Waiting for feedback. Canvas has been used for years for boat decks and canoes to keep water out. You would think people would be more open to the concept.
 
What do you think about laying up a 4x8 piece of glass cloth in epoxy, on a smooth no stick surface, then putting a foam 4x8 on top of it. You would end up with a strong piece of foam with a smooth surface.

I wonder about the cost difference. Paint and Titebond are not that cheap, maybe for a small additional cost you can reduce finishing time.
 
skyl4rk said:
What do you think about laying up a 4x8 piece of glass cloth in epoxy, on a smooth no stick surface, then putting a foam 4x8 on top of it.  You would end up with a strong piece of foam with a smooth surface.

I wonder about the cost difference.  Paint and Titebond are not that cheap, maybe for a small additional cost you can reduce finishing time.

I have heard of that method on repairing fiberglass canoes. You use wax paper, lay out the fabric and apply resin then apply to the repair area on the canoe.

The problem is that you have to step up to epoxy resin with foam which bumps up the cost. Polyester resin will eat the foam.

I like the paint, TBII method just for it's simplicity. no mixing of products that have to be just right and dealing with cure times. Not to mention the harsh chemical aspect of it that could cause health issues. Paint and TBII are easy to work with. It's so simple a cave man can do it.....!
 
After doing both I really like canvas, Tite Bond II and acrylic semi gloss water based house paint. After doing this method a few times cleanup is a snap and waste is almost none. Easy to do large panels with much better control over dry times and if you do mess up simple to repair.
 
As to laying the materials onto wax paper. It might work OK for very small areas but you will end up with wax contamination on the surface and that will interfere with bonding. The heat generated by the epoxy might be enough to melt the wax and that would be difficult to remove. It could interfere with a later application of more epoxy or an application of paint. So don't do it there are easier ways to do the same thing and they don't contaminate the surface.


There is a product sometimes called peel ply that is a type of fabric. Just go to youtube and enter peel ply tutorial into the search box to see how various people do it. Bust basically you build the layers up on top of it then take it over to your panel and leaving the peel ply in place roll it down onto the surface. The peel ply helps your applicator glide over the surface. The peel ply remains on until the epoxy is cured at which time it can be easily peeled off, hence the name peel ply.

For small patches you can use plastic sheeting from the hardware store, I have personally done that method for applying patches quit a few times. Just tape it down at the edges onto a flat surface. Spread out your fiberglass cloth,roll and/or brush the resin onto the cloth building up as many layers as you need. If creating a patch all the layers should not all be cut to the same size, you want to create a graduated thickness at the edge. The first layer against the plastic is the smallest, then each subsequent layer is slightly larger than the previous one. The last layer is the one that will be against the surface you are applying it to. Don't put too much resin on, just enough so that the glass turns transparent instead of white. You can build up a stack of layers. Then take it to the project, put the patch in place and very carefully remove the plastic. You must take the plastic off before the resin cures. If the layers lift up a bit when you take the plastic off just smooth them back down with a squeege, brush, roller, etc.
 
What is a good glue to stick foam to foam?

Foam to plywood?
 
If you can hold it in place with tape, wood skewers, pins or screws and washers till it sets up window and door spray insulation works well it is a form of Gorilla glue which works really well for joints. If doing large surfaces making small holes and light sanding before using TightBond II or III depending or how much water resistance you want , you can also use gripper paint as long as you have time to let it dry. Large panels can be weighted or wrapped in plastic and taped to use a vacuum cleaner to make a void free panel. Look at the tnttt.com foamies section at the top for step by step instructions and different methods to make almost any type of glue joint to almost any material.
 
Burbanlife said:
The only manufactured trailer that the foamies come close to is the " Trailmanor"  they are made of foam and skinned with a thin exterior and interior aluminum . Even the countertops are lightweight.  

George, I think you are on to something that will be affordable to the masses.  KEEP IT UP !!!  Looks great and the videos of the bugout trailer is great

It is not true that Trailmanor is the only one using foam cores skinned with interior and exterior aluminum. Skinned foam cores is rapidly becoming the industry standard for quite a few lightweight trailer makes. Sometimes they use very thin FRP materials for the skins. T@b trailers are made with this panelized method without the use of upper framing. See how the basic method is done in this video. They are using a honeycombed polypropelene foamed structure for the core on this trailer. Foamies can be built flat on a floor then stood up and joined at the corners.
 
There are quite a few Australian manufactures that do a foam core with fiberglass layups too......, But you can build a foamie for a fraction of the cost.
 
Has anyone used PMF to make standalone panels, snapping into a framed chassis?

Waterproofing would be the big challenge, especially for removable / fold-out / pop-up designs.

That "folding knife" design was resurfaced recently. . .
 
For securing stand alone panels into metal frames that will not be removed and insuring a water tight seal I have had really good luck using windshield ribbon seal. It works best when installed in hot weather and does require some pressure to insure both surfaces contact the sealer. It does stay soft for an extended time and panels will slide down due to gravity unless totally framed and blocked or spaced but you will have to cut the seal with a guitar string and use WD40 for a difficult cleanup so it should be considered perminent. I have used it on door frames, windows and thru wall ports sometimes with roof vents I do not use screws as it holds and seals unbelievely well. It comes in a box and can be bought in different diameters by the foot. It originally was used on 1968 Chevy Camaros to fasten and seal windshields to the metal body.
 
Sounds like 3M Window-Weld urethane sealant?

I've used the adhesive from a tube, good stuff.

I see they also sell packaged for a caulk gun, and as a tape / roll like butyl rubber.
 
A system that allowed wall sections to be removed & replaced depending on the weather would be nice. Even hinged on the top edge, provide a shade awning. . .
 
The really good stuff is like a shiny surface rubbery tar that can be handled but if too much pressure or held too long will stick to you, but by slowly rolling your finger you can pull away from it.
 
I would think a sliding rack system for solar panels would work well also and not need to be sealed. Store them on top intransit and slide them to either side and tilt when parked for shade. One thing I really like about the PMF system is with complete encapsulation not only is it strong it is water proof. One reason if I needed more structural strenght I would use an external frame with an encapsulated camper box inside. In this day and age windows are highly over rated. Tioga George is using 3 big flat screen monitors and 3 pin hole cameras for windows. If you want to be outdoors don't try to bring it inside to your warm/cool dry place to sleep. Even ventilation in a lot of places probably needs to be filtered sadly.
 
Being mobile lets you move to where the climate suits you.

I like the idea of easily opening / closing wall panels as desired.
 
Top