Let's talk about heating with diesel.

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http://dickinsonmarine.com/product_cat/diesel-heaters/

On the heater above, I noticed the following:
"1 turn hot water coil for 5-10 gal can be installed for water heating."

Am I understanding correctly that I can use this in place of a conventional RV water heater? I realize it may be inconvenient to fire up a heater in the summer to take a hot shower, but I'm still interested. 5-10 gallons seems like a lot. I assume this is just a coil inside the stove similar to pre-heaters that sometimes go in home wood stoves. I don't know how that volume of water is achieved from one coil.
 
The limited exposure prevents pulling down the primary mass's temp too much.

With HWS tank mounted higher and no hurry, natural heat)-rises circulation. Or a slow rate circulating pump speeds things up a little.

Not this can also go the other way, pretty common to see RVers tap into a HWS to provide space heating through an air exchanger.

If you want HW all year, but heat the space only a few months that would be more efficient.
 
also note on that Dickerson Heater it appears to be gravity fed. so the fuel tank must be mounted above heater. might want to look into that. highdesertranger
 
Water-Coil-with-a-Radex-1024x581.png


http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f115/dickinson-heat-coil-installation-117705.html

http://tognews.com/ftp/ListArchives/Heaters/Webasto Heaters (from Tayana List).htm
 
I'm new to these parts, but want to chime in as I have bit of experience operating and living with Dickinson stoves. I've had two different cook stoves, the Bristol and the Bering models. I had the Bristol in a small cabin cruiser and the Bering in a 33 foot sailboat.

The burners are all rated for the same BTU output until you get into the very largest stoves. I believe the cook stoves may be better heaters than the bulkhead fireplaces because of the greater thermal mass and surface area.

As others have observed, you can only turn them down so low. Low fire is rated at 6,500 BTUs, but that's the full thermal value of the diesel fuel consumed. A fair bit of that is going up the stack. In practice, I dealt with excess heat by opening a portlight if necessary. You need some make up air, anyway as it draws air from within the cabin. That's also why it's good at drying out the cabin. It pulls moist air into the combustion chamber and vents it out the stack as exhaust.

I've long thought that a Dickinson might be ideal for boondocking as they don't require much power in most circumstances. They have fans, but I have mostly only used them to help warm up the stove more quickly. With proper install, I don't think ythey are necessary for operation. If you want to use a lift pump, it takes a negligible amount of power. The worst thing is listening to it tick periodically, but I think that can be dampened.

The biggest challenge will be space for a safe install. I'm not sure most vans dwellers will be willing to sacrifice the required space for a safe installation. But, I think it could be a good choice for a larger vehicle. Dickinson publishes the installation requirements in their manuals.

A couple more thoughts: it takes a little understanding of how the stove operates to get good results. Good results equals a clean burn with invisible exhaust. Bad results will cover your rig and perhaps your neighbors with black soot that is difficult to clean off. But, once it's dialed in, it's simple and reliable.

Another thought: get the exhaust temperature sensor and automatic shut off. There are conditions where these stoves can run away. I know of several boat fires from improper use or installation. The auto shut off can save you a lot of grief if you screw up.

A final thought or two. These are designed to be installed and operated at sea level. The atmosphere at higher elevations has less oxygen and this might be a condition where you need to use the burner fan assist for proper combustion.

It might be possible to increase the draft for higher altitude operation by increasing the stack height. Adjusting the barometric damper when traveling at lower elevations should correct for too much draft. I'd ask the folks at Dickinson about that.

In the worst case, one can adjust the high and low settings on the fuel metering valve to compensate for the effects of altitude but that's a hassle to do on a regular basis.

Maybe it will all be too fiddly, but if you can get it right, a Dickinson stove puts out a pleasant, dry heat, much like a woodstove. Thousands of commercial fishermen rely on them.
 
gsfish said:


My boat had this exact heater, or a different brand with the same design. No forced air. If you were sitting in it’s vicinity you were warm, mostly due to radiant heat. But I ended up using a 120V forced air space heater all the time because it was much more effective.

I have seen little devices that sit on this diesel heater and blow some air...

Whether via circulating hot air or water thru the floor I think you need to heat the air to really feel warm. Or at least I do.

I’d go for a diesel powered recirculating water type heater... and embiggen your battery system so you can run it all night.


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I'm musing over these bunk heaters some more.

So, they can be set up to heat the engine through the coolant, and some can be set up to make hot water for the RV plumbing... but the same unit cold not heat both the engine and potable water, correct?

The thing that turned me off that one model is it dumps its water in freezing temps. I understand that's a safety but that's useless to me as I'm interning to build a system that operates at -20F. Can that thing be installed in the living space and vented outside?
 
highdesertranger said:
also note on that Dickerson Heater it appears to be gravity fed. so the fuel tank must be mounted above heater. might want to look into that. highdesertranger

On my boat it had a tank well below it, but the tank was pressurized, so it had a little rod you would use to pump it up. Despite it being out of the way, and hard to get to, that was never a problem for me, I had to pump it every 3-4 months or effectively twice a year since half the year I wasn’t using the heater.



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It seems the primary objection to furnaces is battery drain for the fans. I believe a hydronic solution could be made that uses much less battery— instead of running the heated liquid thru a radiator and pushing air thru the radiator with a fan— a necessarily high amperage draw— the lines with the hot liquid could simply run under a series of aluminum heat sinks. These are cheap and widely available and are how CPUs used to be cooled. You could even drill a hole thru a block of aluminum and attach the heat sink to that. They are designed for radiating heat are super effective at it (they have very high surface area for the space.). The loop of hot liquid could run around the interior walls once (much less distance than cross crossing under the floor, and thus less powerful pump needed to move the liquid) and thru many such heat sinks. Then your only electrical draw is the heater control system and a peristaltic liquid pump, which should be pretty low since it doesn’t need as much energy as a even one fan.


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Technomad, I wonder why you're having such a poor experience with your Newport? I had  Bering model in my 33 foot sailboat and was never cold, down into the low double digits outside. Exact same burner as your heater. I wonder if there's a problem with the install or adjustment.

I used a Caframo 12v fan to ush air from the ceiling to the cabin sole and that kept air from stratifying and circulated air through the boat. I tried heating the boat with electric heaters, but it took two heaters tokeep up.
 
There are air blower units more electrically efficient, figure 20-30AH per 24 hours if used that much.

RV style furnaces are the worst.
 
TMG51 said:
I'm musing over these bunk heaters some more.

1) So, they can be set up to heat the engine through the coolant, and some can be set up to make hot water for the RV plumbing... but the same unit cold not heat both the engine and potable water, correct?

2) The thing that turned me off that one model is it dumps its water in freezing temps. I understand that's a safety but that's useless to me as I'm interning to build a system that operates at -20F. Can that thing be installed in the living space and vented outside?

*bump*

Does anyone know the answers to these two questions?
 
TMG51 said:
*bump*

Does anyone know the answers to these two questions?

The bunk heaters that I am directly familiar with just heat air in the living space.

What or which model dumps water? A link or make/model would be helpful, even though I have no experience with something that does that.
 
Webasto, Espar make liquid heating models, not just air-blowing, which I guess "bunk heater" implies.

"Parking heaters" is another search term, the liquid ones are "hydronic" systems

Planar is gaining market share as cheaper, a lot of Chinese knockoffs as well, but parts, service & support are the hard part in the US since most states still allow trucks to idle while parked.

As for the dumping issue, never heard of that. These units I'm talking about here are designed for arctic conditions, use an antifreeze solution, different concentrations for different climates.

So whether or not the engine coolant is in the loop is a design/installation detail, not a feature of what model you choose.

It would be possible to set up valves to include the block when needed in winter, bypass it otherwise for fuel efficiency.

The water for human use is never heated directly, only through heat exchanger "calorifiers". So that's a Yes to Q #1.

Air exchangers aka radiators, with or without blowers are used to heat the living space(s).
 
Bunk heaters are just a little fuel fired furnace about the physical size of a shoebox, usually mounted under a sleeper bunk, or inside a cabinet. They are rated at around 10,000 to 20,000 btu.

Parking heaters are not made to heat living space, per se, but they can end up warming the cab as a by-product of heating the engine while parked in sub-zero weather. 

APU...now this is another piece of hardware used in conjunction with a bunk heater, and the little engine in the APU drives an alternator, an AC compressor (for cooling), AND a water pump, driving warm coolant thru the engine core to keep the engine warm overnight while parked. The bunk heater can run all night because the DC needed for the heater is provided by the alternator on the APU. This type of unit could easily heat water (thru an exchanger) for bathing, but I am not familiar with that use. 

At any rate, the 'dumping' of water is not something I've heard of.
 
Ok....my post was being composed and I did not see the post before it.

So it might seem out of context.

Yeah those are not the units that I'm familiar with as a user. 

They are made to handle air and water...so as far as I know, they are not called 'bunk heaters'.
 
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