Gideon33w
Well-known member
10w30, SAE, 0w40, regular, synthetic blend, full synthetic, and the slew of additives ... What does it all mean and why should you care?
Well, first off, it should be said that what your manufacturer suggests for your motor is NOT necessarily the best choice. Many manufacturers design a motor, suggest a specific oil, and then later change their minds. Making the writing on your oil cap and the info in your manual obsolete. Plus, your specific use for your vehicle can greatly change what is best for it. The difference between best oils in Alaska and best oils in Arizona can mean the world to your motor.
Now, lets clarify the different between plain old dinosaur oil and modern synthetic. As your motor oil is stressed by heat and pressure it slowly breaks down. The long chain molecules which provide lubrication break apart and the cushioning and lubrication qualities of your motor oil diminish. This and particulates are the reason you need to change your oil in the first place. Synthetic oils resists this breakdown better and start with longer molecular chains. That makes them superior. Period. If you're driving around a winter beater car ... Who cares? But, when you are as dependent on your vehicle as we are it is WELL worth running synthetic oils. The extra weight we haul and long idle times makes them a must.
Oil Grades: SAE single grade and multi grade. Single grade oils are the ones that say SAE and then a number. Multi grade oils are the ones with a number, followed by a dash, followed by another number. The difference? Multi-grade oils offer superior performance over a range of temps while single grade oils offer optimal performance within a narrow range. Stick to multi grade.
Oil Weights: This is the meaning of those numbers you see on the bottle. This is the SAE number on single grades and the FIRST number on multigrades. Bottom line is that low numbers are for cold temps and higher numbers are for warmer temps. The second number in multi-grade oils is basically denoting the range. The larger the number (and value change)the better the temp range it handles.
Oil Groups: This denotes the contents of the oil as is often NOT listed on the bottles. Group 1 oils are dinosaur oils. The chains are not optimal but it's cheap. Group 2 is most of what you see at the store not listed as synthetic. The have been processed to form better/longer chains and do a better job. Often, these are sold as blends or partial synthetics. Group 3 is most of what you see at the store listed as synthetic. Strangely, these oils are NOT technically synthetic (just high percentage). Mobile1 is a group 3 to give you an idea. This is the group of oil I suggest. Group 4 is the really expensive stuff and is true full synthetic. Even I don't bother with these unless I'm towing constantly or it's for a track toy. High end Aimsoil and Royal Purple are examples of Group 4 oils. Group 5 is pretty much relegated to additives. These are highly processed oils which produce very specific qualities best used in limited amounts. Marvels Mystery Oil is a common Group 5 many have heard of.
Oil Change Intervals: The 3,000 mile oil change adage is from a bygone era. Modern engines and oils tolerate 5,000 miles between changes is the standard and a motor with good compression and running good oil can EASILY go much longer before the qualities of the oil begin to deteriorate. Keep in mind that the time you spend idling does not count miles on your odometer but does contribute to reducing your oil life.
So, what does this all mean and what should you be putting in your engine?
Well, as noted above, I suggest ONLY Group 3 synthetic oils. To choose which weight I suggest following this chart specifically. If you're motor has very high miles or smokes a little on start up you can feel free to move down the list to give you a thicker oil.
But Gideon, what about additives?! I'm glad you asked. There is only two additives I suggest and I have used them for many years. Those are Marvels Mystery Oil (MMO) and Lucas Oil Stabilizer (LOS). Anything else should be left on the shelf. Every time you change your oil you should replace 10% of the volume with MMO and 10% with LOS. So, a motor which holds 5Q oil will get a half quart of MMO and a half quart of LOS. MMO is a group 5 and does an EXCELLENT job keeping things clean and breaking down oil sludge. LOS is a VERY thick oil which is HIGHLY resistance to breakdown which helps provide additional cushioning properties to your oil.
Oil Filters: One could write a small book on the different brand of oil filters, what they contain, how they are designed, and what is best. I'll make it easy for you though. Fram Ultra (ONLY the Utlra models), Motorcraft, and NAPA Gold ... Don't use anything but these. Don't believe me? Open up an old cheap filter and take a look at the quality of the PAPER filter material. Trust me ... Use one of the ones I suggest.
A note: Every now and then I see people asking about how much oil they should be putting in their motor if they aren't changing the filter during the oil change. STOP DOING THAT. Filters are $5-10 so change the darn thing when you change your oil. There is NO benefit from using an old filter.
Another note: Many vans/trucks/rvs have oil coolers added. This is a great thing but you must keep in mind that this increases the capacity of your motor. Learn how much oil your motor likes to reach full and write it down. The oil cooler in my Mountaineer increases the volume by about 3/4Q. If I put in the recommended I'd be low.
One last note (I promise): Changing your own motor oil is superior to getting it done. Oil change shops use cheap filters and oil, wont put in additives for you, and are typically staffed by kids barely out of high school. They just don't care. They want you in and out. Especially if all you're getting done is a change (which is a break even for them). Changing your own oil allows you to make sure it's done right and lets you get eyes on your parts. You'd be amazed how often I've gone to change my oil and noticed something that needed servicing (like torn CV boots) which I wouldn't have caught otherwise.
Well, first off, it should be said that what your manufacturer suggests for your motor is NOT necessarily the best choice. Many manufacturers design a motor, suggest a specific oil, and then later change their minds. Making the writing on your oil cap and the info in your manual obsolete. Plus, your specific use for your vehicle can greatly change what is best for it. The difference between best oils in Alaska and best oils in Arizona can mean the world to your motor.
Now, lets clarify the different between plain old dinosaur oil and modern synthetic. As your motor oil is stressed by heat and pressure it slowly breaks down. The long chain molecules which provide lubrication break apart and the cushioning and lubrication qualities of your motor oil diminish. This and particulates are the reason you need to change your oil in the first place. Synthetic oils resists this breakdown better and start with longer molecular chains. That makes them superior. Period. If you're driving around a winter beater car ... Who cares? But, when you are as dependent on your vehicle as we are it is WELL worth running synthetic oils. The extra weight we haul and long idle times makes them a must.
Oil Grades: SAE single grade and multi grade. Single grade oils are the ones that say SAE and then a number. Multi grade oils are the ones with a number, followed by a dash, followed by another number. The difference? Multi-grade oils offer superior performance over a range of temps while single grade oils offer optimal performance within a narrow range. Stick to multi grade.
Oil Weights: This is the meaning of those numbers you see on the bottle. This is the SAE number on single grades and the FIRST number on multigrades. Bottom line is that low numbers are for cold temps and higher numbers are for warmer temps. The second number in multi-grade oils is basically denoting the range. The larger the number (and value change)the better the temp range it handles.
Oil Groups: This denotes the contents of the oil as is often NOT listed on the bottles. Group 1 oils are dinosaur oils. The chains are not optimal but it's cheap. Group 2 is most of what you see at the store not listed as synthetic. The have been processed to form better/longer chains and do a better job. Often, these are sold as blends or partial synthetics. Group 3 is most of what you see at the store listed as synthetic. Strangely, these oils are NOT technically synthetic (just high percentage). Mobile1 is a group 3 to give you an idea. This is the group of oil I suggest. Group 4 is the really expensive stuff and is true full synthetic. Even I don't bother with these unless I'm towing constantly or it's for a track toy. High end Aimsoil and Royal Purple are examples of Group 4 oils. Group 5 is pretty much relegated to additives. These are highly processed oils which produce very specific qualities best used in limited amounts. Marvels Mystery Oil is a common Group 5 many have heard of.
Oil Change Intervals: The 3,000 mile oil change adage is from a bygone era. Modern engines and oils tolerate 5,000 miles between changes is the standard and a motor with good compression and running good oil can EASILY go much longer before the qualities of the oil begin to deteriorate. Keep in mind that the time you spend idling does not count miles on your odometer but does contribute to reducing your oil life.
So, what does this all mean and what should you be putting in your engine?
Well, as noted above, I suggest ONLY Group 3 synthetic oils. To choose which weight I suggest following this chart specifically. If you're motor has very high miles or smokes a little on start up you can feel free to move down the list to give you a thicker oil.
But Gideon, what about additives?! I'm glad you asked. There is only two additives I suggest and I have used them for many years. Those are Marvels Mystery Oil (MMO) and Lucas Oil Stabilizer (LOS). Anything else should be left on the shelf. Every time you change your oil you should replace 10% of the volume with MMO and 10% with LOS. So, a motor which holds 5Q oil will get a half quart of MMO and a half quart of LOS. MMO is a group 5 and does an EXCELLENT job keeping things clean and breaking down oil sludge. LOS is a VERY thick oil which is HIGHLY resistance to breakdown which helps provide additional cushioning properties to your oil.
Oil Filters: One could write a small book on the different brand of oil filters, what they contain, how they are designed, and what is best. I'll make it easy for you though. Fram Ultra (ONLY the Utlra models), Motorcraft, and NAPA Gold ... Don't use anything but these. Don't believe me? Open up an old cheap filter and take a look at the quality of the PAPER filter material. Trust me ... Use one of the ones I suggest.
A note: Every now and then I see people asking about how much oil they should be putting in their motor if they aren't changing the filter during the oil change. STOP DOING THAT. Filters are $5-10 so change the darn thing when you change your oil. There is NO benefit from using an old filter.
Another note: Many vans/trucks/rvs have oil coolers added. This is a great thing but you must keep in mind that this increases the capacity of your motor. Learn how much oil your motor likes to reach full and write it down. The oil cooler in my Mountaineer increases the volume by about 3/4Q. If I put in the recommended I'd be low.
One last note (I promise): Changing your own motor oil is superior to getting it done. Oil change shops use cheap filters and oil, wont put in additives for you, and are typically staffed by kids barely out of high school. They just don't care. They want you in and out. Especially if all you're getting done is a change (which is a break even for them). Changing your own oil allows you to make sure it's done right and lets you get eyes on your parts. You'd be amazed how often I've gone to change my oil and noticed something that needed servicing (like torn CV boots) which I wouldn't have caught otherwise.