Keep it Separate?

[dixonge]

And yes, using the shore power cable connected to a 30-amp outlet connected to the inverter is definitely a shortcut. However, every discussion I have seen about this type of setup includes one and only one risk, that of draining your house batteries _if_ you don't turn off the converter breaker. Except even that part doesn't really apply to my setup (I don't believe), since there are two separate battery banks. So in _this_ particular scenario I don't see where the 'burn down your rig' part comes into play.

 

[dixonge]

Having said all that, I'd just like to point out a few things. First, I'm a reasonably intelligent person, both intellectually and common-sense-wise. I've assembled electronics, I know how to solder, I've constructed my own 12x16 barn from plans, I've driven buses, I've had a Ham radio license (twice), I've installed alternators, power steering pumps, thermostats and multiple other things under the hood. Second, I research and overanalyze almost everything before implementing it. And third, I'm not flabbergasted or mad at anyone. But that doesn't mean that I take your word for anything at face value either. I mean, you're just someone on the internet, like the guy in that video.

 

[dixonge]

Parts are all in. Had a nice phone chat w/ a Windy Nation rep. He asked good questions, answered mine, verified a few things for me.

Have modified the solar panel locations a few times. Finally found a *better* path for the cable from the roof, will route it down next to the black tank vent. This leads down to the bedroom closet area, which is about 3 feet from new battery/controller/inverter location. One hole to pop through. This has saved about 12 feet of cable.

One of the batteries was low on water, evidently not that unusual for things sitting on shelves for a long time. Voltage appears to match the other battery. Converter display shows expected info. Inverter works.



Batteries need to be charged, obviously

 

[dixonge]

Probably should clean the rest of the roof, but panels are installed and I was able to arrange them in such a way that I didn't need to splice any of the cable.


Mostly done in the battery compartment. All connected and tested and working. Need a plug, some vent/ground holes, couple of disconnects, trays/straps for batteries.

 

[dixonge]

ONE YEAR LATER

To the surprise of many in this thread, my rig has NOT, in fact, burned to the ground! For the first several months my setup worked exactly as intended and expected. There were two problems, both of which simply involved me having to remember things that will drain the batteries fast. Those things need to be turned off. Thing 1: battery disconnect. If not disconnected, the solar battery bank will attempt to charge the existing house batteries. Thing 2: Refrigerator - if left on Auto, the system will attempt to run it off the solar battery bank instead of gas. As long as the switch is set to Gas all is well.

Other than that, the one issue was capacity. 230ah (115ah usable) was not enough when boondocking around the Pacific Northwest and cloudy days and marine layer, etc. So in January/February of this year I added two more batteries, upping the usable amp hours to 230. Since then the average drawdown is 10% each day.

We just completed our first solid month of boondocking with no paid nights and no hookups, shuttling between locations in south-central Colorado. We have saved enough money to pay for all solar expenses, and then some.

 

[bullfrog]

So I have read this thread through twice and have not watched the video. If I understand your system correctly you have a totally independent solar system of 400 watts (?) of solar panels charging 4-6 volt batteries for a total of 460ah battery bank. The battery bank powers a 1500 watt inverter which you indicated you would plug in a jumper cable while the inverter was turned off to the shore power plug of the motorhome and before turning the inverter on disconnect the house batteries via a disconnect switch, set the refrigerator on gas (I take it you do not have a 120 volt heating element in your hot water tank and use gas only) then turn on the inverter. The original house batteries are charged only when driving the motorhome or while plugged in to shore power with the converter. Is this correct? I can see where the male end plug of the jumper wire where it plugs into the motorhome being a shock hazard if the inverter were left on. Maybe a warning light/circuit breaker in the plug like many extension cords have would help so you could see if power was present. Maybe have a female insulated dummy plug with an indicator light attached close by to be installed on the male plug when not plugged into the motorhome. You must have extremely small AC loads on the motorhome to only drop !0%, I assume you use a generator with a transfer switch when you have heavy loads?