Just Bought a 12ft box truck need advice

[sephiro499]

12ft 2014 gmc savanna previously a penske truck, truck was finished by a company called Supreme but I couldn't find exact information on my make/model/year.  I 'think' the walls are 3/8 plywood but I don't know and don't know how to know.  Everything on the supreme site alludes to 3/8.  


I get it inspected on Monday.  After that I should be free to being modifications.  My questions are:

What type of saw do I use to cut the pass through from the cab to the rear? 
I coated the existing floor with flex seal (I posted about this previously), what type of plywood should I use for new flooring?  I assume 1/2in hardwood?

The top is a fiberglass (hate this) with metal ribs.  Assuming I can't just put panels on that, should I buy a rack (350 for a 3 piece) or is it possible to rig something up?  It has a metal channel that runs the length of the box.  I would like at least 900watts of solar so I can run a 5000btu.

Interior measures 11ft 10in long x 6ft 6in wide and assuming the roof would be basically the same.
How much clearance does a fantastic fan need?  If I fill the roof with panels on a rack then I might not have room to open the fan. 

I plan on keeping the existing rails the truck has and getting furring strips or whatever and have those be the exact same width as the side rails.  That was I can put the polyiso in between and then put up some sort of wall covering. 

My idea for AC is to frame around whatever pass through I cut and then cut the door in two parts horizontally.  When I want ac swing open the top door and get some sort of support to hold it.  I can get rain guards and screens and wind down the front windows to vent the hot air.  

Adding a hitch.  According to etrailer I need a special hitch for savanna cutaway, it is double the price....  I have seen box trucks with hitch receivers on the metal step bumper itself.  Is it possible to have a hitch receiver welded onto the bottom of the existing metal step?  Edit can I just buy this: https://www.harborfreight.com/5000-lbs-step-bumper-receiver-69670.html 


Tools:
I have a black and decker matrix drill so I know I am going to need a circular saw and then either a jigsaw or a reciprocating saw, unless these are the same thing?  The matrix drill allows you to snap on and off attachments.  So I was going to go that route unless this is a bad idea since I already own the drill. 

Images:

 

[tx2sturgis]

Cool! A blank slate for a build....

If you want a pass-thru with a curve at the top, you would need a jigsaw. 

For straight cuts a smaller circular saw should work OK. 

If you mount the A/C in the pass-thru, you will need a drain hose for the condensation. And you would need the front windows open probably all the way for airflow. Maybe even need to add an additional fan. Not really a good place to mount it, but maybe you have a reason for doing so.

The step bumper is probably not rated for a receiver hitch and trailer pulling, so unless your trailer will be under 1000 pounds or so, or mounting a hitch carrier or bicycle rack, I would recommend the frame mounted hitch.

 

[highdesertranger]

as far as the pass through, are you going to cut the cab? if you are you are going to loose a lot of the structural integrity. I can't emphasize this enough, you better know what you are doing.

most step bumpers are rated for 300 pounds. the bumper should have some rating stamped on it. I would stay far away from Harbor Freight especially for towing products. highdesertranger

 

[sephiro499]

If you mount the A/C in the pass-thru, you will need a drain hose for the condensation. And you would need the front windows open probably all the way for airflow. Maybe even need to add an additional fan. Not really a good place to mount it, but maybe you have a reason for doing so.

The step bumper is probably not rated for a receiver hitch and trailer pulling, so unless your trailer will be under 1000 pounds or so, or mounting a hitch carrier or bicycle rack, I would recommend the frame mounted hitch.

Afaik my window ac actually uses a different design, whereas it uses the water you would normally have to drain and uses it to cool the coils and it evaporates.  Ok I will have to just buy the more expensive hitch.

as far as the pass through,  are you going to cut the cab?  if you are you are going to loose a lot of the structural integrity. I can't emphasize this enough,  you better know what you are doing.

most step bumpers are rated for 300 pounds.  the bumper should have some rating stamped on it.  I would stay far away from Harbor Freight especially for towing products.  highdesertranger

I have no idea what I am doing.  I only know what I have seen on youtube.  I would cut the smallest door possible.  I have been following 'dreamsideout' he was in a 10ft.  He even said they make a cab door kit but I could never find one online. 

Ok so bumper idea is out gotta get the hitch.

 

[Matlock]

Just my 2¢ here,
The box was built by Supreme. Do a search for Supreme Dry Body.
THe box is a sandwich of fiberglass with several layers of plywood in between. Totaling 3/8".

I installed my fantastic fan in the back wall. On the roof it would/could block the solar panels. I didn't want to lose any charging opportunities.

Venting the hot air side of an AC unit that is mounted in a pass-through you cut from cabin to box will generate a bunch of really hot air and water. Even draining the water out of the AC unit will still create a greenhouse in your cab (if you know how a 5K AC works under the cover). Great for growing tropical fruits, not so good for rubber seals and we all know how much electronics under the dash love moisture. Please elaborate on why you want to go this way.

Most 1 ton box van rentals come with a stout hitch mounted on the frame on or under the step bumper. This may or may not be the case with yours. Check the build list that Penske has on your Vin #. They will give this to you and actually it should be in your purchase packet once the deal was completed. The bumper capacity should be specified. If not, give them a call.

 

[sephiro499]

Just my 2¢ here,
The box was built by Supreme. Do a search for Supreme Dry Body.
THe box is a sandwich of fiberglass with several layers of plywood in between. Totaling 3/8".

I installed my fantastic fan in the back wall. On the roof it would/could block the solar panels. I didn't want to lose any charging opportunities.

Venting the hot air side of an AC unit that is mounted in a pass-through you cut from cabin to box will generate a bunch of really hot air and water. Even draining the water out of the AC unit will still create a greenhouse in your cab (if you know how a 5K AC works under the cover). Great for growing tropical fruits, not so good for rubber seals and we all know how much electronics under the dash love moisture. Please elaborate on why you want to go this way.

Most 1 ton box van rentals come with a stout hitch mounted on the frame on or under the step bumper. This may or may not be the case with yours. Check the build list that Penske has on your Vin #. They will give this to you and actually it should be in your purchase packet once the deal was completed. The bumper capacity should be specified. If not, give them a call.

They didn't give me anything besides a bill of sale.  If I had to do it over again I would not.  It was a real pain in the ass.  You talk to 4 different people via email/phone and none of them talk to each other.  And the van shook so bad on the 350mile drive home I was not happy.  They did fix the shaking, the rep said it was a tire issue.  I contacted the 'post sale support' person because the DMV would not accept my bill of sale and never received an email reply or a callback.  Hate to say it but once they have your money I don't think they really care. 
I went back to the DMV the next day and got someone who wasn't an ahole.  Then I could get the truck registered etc.  

I don't have to mount an AC there.  My other idea was build a second wall and just roll up the door.

 

[DanoT]

I just watched one of Bob's videos where he said that it is possible to run an A/C from solar and batteries, but the strain on the battery bank does not allow running the A/C for long.

 

[tx2sturgis]

as far as the pass through,  are you going to cut the cab?  if you are you are going to loose a lot of the structural integrity. I can't emphasize this enough,  you better know what you are doing.

HDR, that box truck is actually what is called a 'cutaway cube van' and the back of the cab is already cut open, and attached to the box. It's just a matter of cutting thru the laminated plywood/FRP.

 

[highdesertranger]

ah I see. my bad. carry on. highdesertranger

 

[tx2sturgis]

Afaik my window ac actually uses a different design, whereas it uses the water you would normally have to drain and uses it to cool the coils and it evaporates.  Ok I will have to just buy the more expensive hitch.

What you are referring to is called a 'slinger ring' on the fan. Trust me, on humid days, the water WILL need to be drained.

 

[jonyjoe303]

for cutting through the wall use a cordless jigsaw, its what I use, you can also use it to cut your hole for the ceiling fan, it cut through metal/wood/plastic etc, they got different blades for different materials. I bought mine at harbor freight for 30 dollars (including battery) 3 years ago, best investment ever, use it all the time. Just make sure the area you will be cutting is clear of any important electrical wires etc, I wouldnt cut through any support beams. A sawsaw is not good for precision work, a circular saw might be too big for the job/enclosed places and not precise enough.

I have 3 vents on the roof, including 1 that has a vent fan. For me they are virtually worthless, I have them covered over. On a very hot day they won't do anything for you. A endless breeze fantastic fan you can use inside works alot better. With all that space depending on area, you might consider a swampcooler. Right now in souther california its been hot/humid for the past month, all I been using is my small 2 amp swampcooler. It struggles in the heat but it keeps me cool, I don't sweat inside my van with all the doors/windows/vents closed and parked in the sun. I been running it 24 hours straight in this heat, the 1 amp it uses at night is insignificant for my battery. Thats an option for you, and you can get larger swampcoolers that will work even better. Even the large ones will use less then 10 amps. 

For air conditioner/solar there is a website "hurriedyear" of someone who uses an AC on solar in his van, lot of pictures on how he installed everything and the parts he uses. He runs his system on AGM batteries.
 
But use alot of insulation. Its all about the insulation. Install it with a hotglue gun, no chemicals,no fumes dries almost instantly. Ryobi sells a cordless hotglue gun (30 dollars/ no battery) best invention ever. Harbor freight also sells a hot gluegun (plug in) for 20 dollars. I use the rtech foam insulation from home depot 4x8 foot sheet cost 8 dollars, easy to cut with box cutter.

harbor freight cordless jigsaw


rear heavily insulated and swampcooler (94 degrees) versus front uninsulated van compartment (148 degrees) . Its the hottest temperature I recorded this summer. 

 

[sephiro499]

ah I see.  my bad.  carry on.  highdesertranger

Thank you for clarifying I was becoming paranoid about ruining the structure. 

What you are referring to is called a 'slinger ring' on the fan. Trust me, on humid days, the water WILL need to be drained.

Yeah after thinking about it, it's not worth the moisture risk.  I mean I would be living inside of a particle board box too much risk for mold etc.

for cutting through the wall use a cordless jigsaw, its what I use, you can also use it to cut your hole for the ceiling fan, it cut through metal/wood/plastic etc, they got different blades for different materials. I bought mine at harbor freight for 30 dollars (including battery) 3 years ago, best investment ever, use it all the time. Just make sure the area you will be cutting is clear of any important electrical wires etc, I wouldnt cut through any support beams. A sawsaw is not good for precision work, a circular saw might be too big for the job/enclosed places and not precise enough.




rear heavily insulated and swampcooler (94 degrees) versus front uninsulated van compartment (148 degrees) . Its the hottest temperature I recorded this summer. 

Thanks jony lots of great information.  So you recommend using hot glue?  I think in one of bob's videos he was using some type of 3m spray adhesive.  I could either glue the polyiso to the box or I could use screws?  I thought a swamp cooler only worked in a dry environment?  Like aren't they popular in areas like Arizona where the heat is dry.  It has been pretty humid here in Maryland recently. 

What type of swamp cooler do you have?  I am going to buy the jigsaw attachment for my black and decker matrix drill.

 

[Allan Greenblazer]

There is a YouTuber called dreamsideout that is building his second box truck, I recommend watching his channel as he shows how he is doing his build on video.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Ms Linda]

In addition to "dreamsideout", there's another youtuber by the name of "A City Nomad" who owned a box truck.

 

[DannyB1954]

I just watched one of Bob's videos where he said that it is possible to run an A/C from solar and batteries, but the strain on the battery bank does not allow running the A/C for long.

During the day IF there are only intermittent clouds, it is not a problem running an AC during the day on enough panels. At night it is a different story. I have 960 Watts of solar on a van and can run a 5,000 BTU AC from about 10 am to maybe 5 pm on just the panels. I only have enough battery to make it through the night running the refrigerator, lights, and other low power loads, (no AC). The advantage to this is lower weight and the batteries get charged up quick the next morning.
Here is my set up working both in the sun, and with sun behind a cloud.

 

[Groovy2]

buy a high quality jig saw - get battery powered if you can -
a high quality jig saw will make Every Cut you need to make -

I have a Bosch - was about $200 to 250 - worth every penny-
it is plug in 120 v I uses inverter in van to power it

dont buy cheap jig saw - cut crooked everytime

 

[sephiro499]

I'm going to get a cordless black and decker jigsaw since I already invested in their system with batteries etc.  Not sure if this was asnwered before but how thick is the floor?  I searched for 'supreme dry body' and I think the floor is 1-1/8 laminated hardwood?  I covered the original floor with flex seal and then put 1/4 sanded plywood with 3 coats of polyurethane.  I'm asking how thick the original floor is because I want to screw the new subfloor down but don't want to go all the way through the existing floor.

 

[7wanders]

I owned a box truck for about 2 months prior to buying my step van.

as others have mentioned, if walls are not metal, then I believe most box van walls are a sandwich of plywood with exterior layers of fiberglass which can be cut with rotary saw for straight cuts or jigsaw for curves)

you might consider mounting an AC unit under the frame behind the rear wheels like Brian did in his step van (video tour here of his box van and AC mount: ). a kilowatt of power should be enough for the smaller window AC units during daylight hours. you'll need a big battery bank if you intend to run it without solar power.

there are several box truck and step van owners with fiberglass ceilings. there are a number of ways to deal with that from attaching polyiso insulation to the ceiling, some will remove the fiberglass and install aluminum and others will add supports. personally I believe it is best to plan for potential of cracks or damage to the fiberglass so you have ability or access to repair it.

do you have a rolling rear door? those also present issues for insulation and build in the rear ceiling area. often it is easier to remove the roll up and replace it with swing doors

no idea of the hitch rating. it would totally depend on your rear axels, frame, and bumper as well as hitch system purchased. you'll need to track down some numbers on your vehicle.

if your schedule permits, you may wish to attend Jamie's Van Build Party for 3 weeks in November (youtube Enigmatic Nomadic). he offers to complete one project per vehicle for free if you provide supplies. that would get you setup with solar or any other complex task.

outside of getting your vehicle on the road, I'd recommend building in the following order:
1. solar power setup
2. insulation ceiling, walls and floor (depending on where you wish to travel)
3. interior build of whatever you feel you need most (bed? kitchen?)
things like AC, heat, etc can come over time as long as you keep them in mind as you build (you can often get by with temp solutions like small heaters, etc until you get a final solution)

 

[maki2]

12ft 2014 gmc savanna previously a penske truck, truck was finished by a company called Supreme but I couldn't find exact information on my make/model/year.  I 'think' the walls are 3/8 plywood but I don't know and don't know how to know.  Everything on the supreme site alludes to 3/8.  


I get it inspected on Monday.  After that I should be free to being modifications.  My questions are:

What type of saw do I use to cut the pass through from the cab to the rear? 
I coated the existing floor with flex seal (I posted about this previously), what type of plywood should I use for new flooring?  I assume 1/2in hardwood?

The top is a fiberglass (hate this) with metal ribs.  Assuming I can't just put panels on that, should I buy a rack (350 for a 3 piece) or is it possible to rig something up?  It has a metal channel that runs the length of the box.  I would like at least 900watts of solar so I can run a 5000btu.

Interior measures 11ft 10in long x 6ft 6in wide and assuming the roof would be basically the same.
How much clearance does a fantastic fan need?  If I fill the roof with panels on a rack then I might not have room to open the fan. 

I plan on keeping the existing rails the truck has and getting furring strips or whatever and have those be the exact same width as the side rails.  That was I can put the polyiso in between and then put up some sort of wall covering. 

My idea for AC is to frame around whatever pass through I cut and then cut the door in two parts horizontally.  When I want ac swing open the top door and get some sort of support to hold it.  I can get rain guards and screens and wind down the front windows to vent the hot air.  

Adding a hitch.  According to etrailer I need a special hitch for savanna cutaway, it is double the price....  I have seen box trucks with hitch receivers on the metal step bumper itself.  Is it possible to have a hitch receiver welded onto the bottom of the existing metal step?  Edit can I just buy this: https://www.harborfreight.com/5000-lbs-step-bumper-receiver-69670.html 


Tools:
I have a black and decker matrix drill so I know I am going to need a circular saw and then either a jigsaw or a reciprocating saw, unless these are the same thing?  The matrix drill allows you to snap on and off attachments.  So I was going to go that route unless this is a bad idea since I already own the drill. 

Images:

 

[maki2]

you are in luck, a well known blogger  (Tioga George) has just started a build in a box van and is in the process of making the cut through. He can advise you where to find the flexible boot you need to create a water tight joint between the box and the cab. He is also showing the tools and the process for making the cut through. He is a friendly guy so just ask questions in the comments section.
https://blog.vagabonders-supreme.net/2018/10/cab-side-opening.html