insulation

[DiANA R]

Thank you for the link crofter,
I watched your whole ingenious cabinet making and was amazed at what polyisoXPS could do. I don't know yet exactly what it is so it will take research but you made it clear that it can do more than I would ever have thought about. Loved it and that cool knife!
Diana

 

[highdesertranger]

well Great stuff can say whatever they want but that has not been my experience with their product.

also why would they even say that? I mean what brought that on. for a company to come out and say that there is not a problem there must be a reason.

highdesertranger

 

[bullfrog]

Many of the old cars especially VW air cooled Bugs used it in the area at the back of the bottom of the rear side windows. For what ever reason they tend to rust out there. Condensation is a major problem in closed areas especially when using propane heat. I feel spray foam causes water to condensate and collect in areas where it is used, just my personal opinion. I have no problem using spray foam in areas that it can “breath” but enclosed areas that are prone to condensation isn’t one of them. If you want to expand those types of glue and spray, mist a little water on it and watch what happens! It works great on wood and ridged foam but I would not use it to attach those materials to metal. The Teardrops and Tiny Trailers forums have a really good sticky (Lol!!! See what I did there.) on what to glue to what with what glue.

 

[B and C]

It was an answer to "Can it be used on Metal." And that's what they answered, provided that the metal is painted.

That may rule out using it in the ribs unless they dunk the body in a vat of paint.

 

[MrAlvinDude]

Hi DiANA R,
I think that the best pieces of advice that has been given so far is;
- use thin and smaller pieces - so you get a feel for how it works
- use a glue gun
- use several layers

Foam board comes in a variety of thicknesses, and are made from different types of foam.  I suggest you start out using thin layers. Preferably at or thinner than 1/2 an inch.

Once you get personal experience, and understand the options and limits of the flex of the foam, so you know more about how to get it to follow the curb of the metal, then you can possibly move on to using thicker foam in some locations.


You will want to use the types that are water proof, as in, they do not take in water if they are submerged in water (for days or weeks at a time).

If you use spray foam, you will also want to use spray foam that will not take in water, if a blob of it is submerged in water for days (or weeks).


My advise is that you make a simple test, using a bucket of water, submerge a sample of the foam (or spray foam) that you intend to use, and leave it submerged over night. And then 24 hours later, take it out and check to see if any water keeps dripping from the foam, after the water on the surface has cleared.

And then give it a very good squeeze, to see if any water got into cells inside the foam blob/sample.


Getting experience with how water (read: condensation) works/happens in a metal box, that you live in, is an important part of van living.

 

[MrAlvinDude]

About "good stuff" foam.

Where I live, brand names are completely different, so I know nothing about that particular product.

Most foams I have used over the years, will not attack metal. But...... if it is open cell, it will fast/slow allow water/condensation to enter, then that water will, after a few years, start to find its way through paint, and the water will start to rot the metal.

Years of affect by condensation will eventually wear out any type of paint.
And if the foam traps the condensation, then that surface of paint is under attack 24/7.

So I think the "bucket of water" test, will give clues as to how open-cell/closed-cell the GoodStuff foam might be.

When I need to use a new brand of spray foam, I use a burn test, and bucket-of-water test to become more familiar with the foam.

Most types of foam will burn up, after you remove the flame, but some foams will not keep burning once you remove the flame. I always find this to be an interesting aspect of the characteristic of foam boards and foam spray.

Likewise I find their willingness to absorb water (or reject water) to be an interesting characteristic to know about, for a product for use in a vehicle.

 

[MrAlvinDude]

A few notes and observations, that you might find useful.


Heat like to travel up-wards. So Insulating the ceiling (and top foot of the walls) will help you to retain heat.

Preferable one would insulate the entirety of the walls, but since you are looking to start with a no-build solution, the ceiling is an place to start, for keeping in some heat.



I think a no-build start, and then learn as you go, is a good way to go.
Because it helps to not overthink things too much.
Do research - YES - and get new ideas and new inspiration - YES - but remember to also take time to experiment and learn.
You know what they say; that the difference between a master and a novice is, that the master has failed more times, than the novice has even done actions.



Re-purposing items of clothing (and such) for insulation is okay, but remember to inspect it from time to time, especially when it is cold, as fabric will absorb moisture, and keep the moisture trapped, close to the metal.  And that is not a good thing.
So being able to remove and inspect things, for moisture, is another good aspect of a no-build.

 

[highdesertranger]

when doing the water test make sure to cut the blob of foam in half. great stuff forms a skin if this skin is broken then it absorbs water. the skin is water proof the foam is not. highdesertranger

 

[Steveb.]

Hi, I'm new here and haven't read all the comments so someone may have addressed this.
I'm not sure what you mean by 'no-build' so what I'm doing might not apply to your concern.

I have an econoline and I want to use electric heat so I outfitted with solar that could handle a small heater.
The inside of my van has no interior so is all metal. I ordered from amazon a few dozen magnets.
I'm getting ready to order some synthetically insulated comforters that I will hold to the van with the magnets.
One whole king sized comforter will fit perfectly in the ceiling and droop down the sides a ways, then I'll put smaller comforters in front, back, and sides...using the magnets so that I can easily remove and install the comforters or use only some.
That's the plan anyway, and I can let anyone know how it goes and works.

s