Insulation

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Prodex Total&nbsp;insulation...Has better insulating (15.6 r value) and it closes in around fastners to prevent air leakage.&nbsp; I wonder if its the stuff that is used for those cooler bags?<br />Rae
 
yesican said:
Prodex Total&nbsp;insulation...Has better insulating (15.6 r value) and it closes in around fastners to prevent air leakage.&nbsp; I wonder if its the stuff that is used for those cooler bags?<br />Rae
<br /><br />&nbsp;That R-rating is rather deceptive insofar as it requires a 2.64" air space on both sides AND the- heat flow direction was DOWN.&nbsp; http://www.insulation4less.com/TechnicaldataPopUp.aspx?ItemId=1&nbsp; The 'fine print' is on the bottom.<br />&nbsp; As an aside, if you have a local 'scrap metal' pile, check for hot water heaters that have a Reflectix covering.&nbsp; I've managed to scrounge enough to do me cieling for this winter and... it's FREE!
 
One of the suggestions I've seen on the forum is to use layers of bubble wrap for insulation.&nbsp; I wonder if this is wise.&nbsp; Bubble wrap is very flammable. <br /><br />A Lowe's staffer told me that there is an insulation made from textile fibers impregnated with fire suppressant that they used to carry.&nbsp; Unfortunately, he could not remember what it was called.
 
Its already getting down to -11 at night here in Alberta, and due to my insulating efforts have been able to maintain around 70 inside my rig with just 1 1500watt electric heater. A farmer friend of mine also says he will "Donate" some square bails of hay to me free of charge. I will stuff it under the floor and then put on my aluminum skirting. Yeah i know they attract mice, but I'm gonna stick a cat in the cellar. &nbsp;<img src="/images/boards/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" align="absmiddle"> kidding. I ended using the white Styrofoam with the reflective side out right over my reflex base.
 
I've found that Lowes price matches other retailers plus gives 10% extra of the difference in price. &nbsp; If you have a VA card, they give 10% off on everyday purchases also.
 
<span style="color: #000000;">I've seen a lot of van dwellers insulate using Reflextic or <span style="font-family: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; font-size: 10pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA;">double reflective bubble foil wrap </span>on the&nbsp;inside bare metal van walls;</span><br /><span style="color: #000000;">
Full_Size_Van_1.JPG
</span><br /><span style="color: #000000;"><span style="font-size: large;">Then</span> use either pink fiberglass <span style="font-size: medium;">or</span> styrofoam board ontop of that;</span><br /><span style="color: #000000;">
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th
<br />And ofcourse ~ The wood on top:<br /></span>
insulation-2-sm.jpg
<br /><p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Verdana', 'sans-serif'; color: #000000; font-size: 10pt;">&nbsp;</span></p><p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><span style="color: #000000;"><span style="font-family: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; font-size: 10pt;">I hear the Reflectix/ bubble wrap helps quiet the squeaking noise the Styrofoam makes against bare van walls and is a good starting point to insulate anyhow...</span><span style="font-family: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; font-size: 10pt;"><br /><br /></span><span style="font-family: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; font-size: 10pt;">Can anyone confirm the dulling of the noise with the bubble wrap and the Styrofoam?</span><span style="font-family: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; font-size: 10pt;"><br /><br /></span><span style="font-family: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; font-size: 10pt;">I would also like to know which method will be a higher R value, better noise barrier and allow for less condensation from behind the walls.</span><span style="font-family: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; font-size: 10pt;"><br /><br /></span><span style="font-family: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; font-size: 10pt;">I have my assumptions already but im curious to know what you guys think.</span><span style="font-family: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; font-size: 10pt;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: 'Verdana','sans-serif'; font-size: 10pt;">Please advise. :3</span></span></p>
 
&nbsp;One thing to keep in mind about Reflectix and other radiant barriers is that you CAN'T have anything touching the reflective side and something like a 5/8" air space (or more) is required between it and another surface. I'd also avoid leaving it bare because all sorts of stuff (tobacco smoke, cooking grease, dust, etc.) can stick to the surface and, yet again, compromise (somewhat) its' ability to insulate.&nbsp;
 
Willy said:
you CAN'T have anything touching the reflective side and something like a 5/8" air space (or more) is required between it and another surface.
<br /><br />Wait, I see people place it against the insides of their windows. Does pressing it against the window negate their ability to insulate?<br /><br />
 
&nbsp;The side pressing against the window will lose the R-value from conductive heat loss, while the other side won't. The plastic 'bubble' part will still retain it's inherent R-value.
 
I was in Florida back in June for awhile and it was so hot the glue holding my headliner up melted. What do you use to keep this from happening.<br />I'm going to re do using reflectix.
 
&nbsp;Reflectix is actually pretty rigid stuff and, if there's a curve&nbsp; that it can press against, can stay put with minimal fastening. If you will be installing an interior panel, just put some spacing strips between it and the Reflectix.
 
Willy said:
&nbsp;One thing to keep in mind about Reflectix and other radiant barriers is that you CAN'T have anything touching the reflective side and something like a 5/8" air space (or more) is required between it and another surface. I'd also avoid leaving it bare because all sorts of stuff (tobacco smoke, cooking grease, dust, etc.) can stick to the surface and, yet again, compromise (somewhat) its' ability to insulate.&nbsp;
<br /><br />... Hrm, so what your saying is - if you don't intend to have a gap (like a 5/8" air space or more) - don't use this.<br /><br />I personally; don't really want to add something like Refletix / bubble wrap unless it's a moisture barrier without the need for a gap. I was under the impression it didn't need the gap - which brings me to my next question here:<br /><br />Please view the following pictures:<br /><img rel="lightbox" src="http://getfile8.posterous.com/getfi...tCa0187YSMYXGTIf/IMG_1103.jpg.scaled.1000.jpg" class="bbc_img" /><br /><br /><img rel="lightbox" src="http://getfile2.posterous.com/getfi...WNsktUctaOdiOH0C/IMG_1105.jpg.scaled.1000.jpg" class="bbc_img" /><br /><br /><img rel="lightbox" src="http://getfile6.posterous.com/getfi...pGY7ceopMG4CxW9x/IMG_1157.jpg.scaled.1000.jpg" class="bbc_img" /><br /><br /><img rel="lightbox" src="http://getfile1.posterous.com/getfi...vKOvRtAtrpL9C5aY/IMG_1249.jpg.scaled.1000.jpg" class="bbc_img" /><br /><br /><img rel="lightbox" src="http://getfile7.posterous.com/getfi...mexO1CoDBrLTL7Kc/IMG_1285.jpg.scaled.1000.jpg" class="bbc_img" /><br />Click here '<span style="color: #888888;"><a href="http://www.theadvanture.com/construction-episode-7"><span style="color: #888888;">Construction: Episode 7</span></a>'</span> if the Pix don't show up for you - to see what im talking about.<br /><br />The fiberglass insulation against the bare walls of this van seem to promise good R value - as you can see this person placed the fiberglass - than the reflectix - than the wood panels. <br /><br />Will this method accumulate moisture or keep it out of the walls?<br /><br /><br />
 
Well, if he seals the edges, the vinyl/Reflectix will act as a vapour barrier as well as providing some R-value. Actually, he would have been better off to just ditch the fiberglass and just use the Reflectix. Me, I would have used the foil backed 2/4" Polystyrene instead.&nbsp;
 
Willy said:
This is from the Reflectix website FAQ:<br /><br />If You Install 2 Layers of a Reflective Insulation, Does the R-value Double? <br /><br />With multiple layers of product and airspaces between each layer, enhanced performance will be gained. If the product is simply &ldquo;doubled&rdquo; (with no air space between the layers), a very minimal benefit is obtained (R-1.1 (per layer) for the Reflective/Double Bubble product).<br /><br />Why Do You Need Spacers (for certain applications)?<br /><br />Spacers are used to provide an air space where one is not present.<br /><br />What if There is No Air Space Present on Either Side of the Product?<br /><br />No Air Space = No Reflective Insulation Benefit (An R-1.1 is provided from the product itself for the Reflective/Double Bubble material.)<br /><br />What Types of Spacers Can be Utilized?<br /><br />There are several. Here are some examples:<br />&bull; Reflectix&reg; Reflective/Double Bubble Insulation cut into 2&rdquo; strips<br />&bull; 1&rdquo;x 2&rdquo; Furring Strips<br />&bull; Thermal Breaks (a building product similar to furring strips)<br />&bull; Reflectix&reg; Duct Spacers"
<br /><br />I've done some reading and i have to say; with all spacing needed- i dont like this product. <br /><br />Anyone have a better product? Something with better r-value- a similar price and weight + eco friendly would be epic. Im still looking towards that eco-cork foam to insulate the cargo van walls- i want something i can press to the interior walls without having ti worry about a gap and then just seal up the paneling/ coroplast with a good calk to keep any moisture.in the living area- which i can then just use the fantastic fan to get rid of. Suggestions? Constructive critiscm?
 
Quote "you CAN'T have anything touching the reflective side and
something like a 5/8" air space (or more) is required between
it and another surface."

Response:
"That is basically correct. However, Reflectix, that is in
contact on both sides will still have a insulation value of R1.1
With contact on one side, and an air gap on the other, it will
be R 3.87 Air spaces, both sides, R6.64 (approximate values)

I see people place it against the insides of their windows.
Does pressing it against the window negate their ability to
insulate?
It reduces it by R2.77, in those areas that are touching.
A solution is to make spacers by wadding up scraps of
Reflectix, and using aluminum tape to hold them to the
Reflectix. Space them every few inches, depending on
how tightly the Reflectix is being pressed toward the
window, or other surface. My van has:

Glass-air-Reflectix-air-1/2" isocyanurate-air-Reflectix-interior

Potentially (theoretically) that could provide R17,
but the reality, since the air spaces are not consistent,
is more like R11, which is still about 50% more insulation value than most house walls provide. It is
cheap, fast and easy to do, and does not change
the van in any permanent way. It also keeps the
van cool in Summer. Just make sure the edges
are sealed, or cold air will just fall off the glass,
and the insulation will be usless".....Laren Corie
 
&nbsp;That's why, in a subsequent reply, I posted "&nbsp; <span id="post_message_1275803732">The side pressing against the window will lose the R-value from conductive heat loss, while the other side won't. The plastic 'bubble' part will still retain it's inherent R-value." Not specific numbers, true enuf, but still a useful generality.<br /><br />&nbsp;I figure that the setup I just installed, with the Coroplast and Ayr-Foil, has at least doubled the R-value on my ceiling. If I had a place to do it, I'd pull the whole exterior roof skin and put 1 1/2" polystyrene between the studs. Right now it has the aluminized fibreglass batt insulation, which has been compressed between the exterior skin and the studs. Still and all, it's surprisingly effective and better than what's found on many other slide-in campers.&nbsp; <br /><br />&nbsp;<br /></span>
 
Willy said:
...<span id="post_message_1275803732">If I had a place to do it, I'd pull the whole exterior roof skin and <strong>put</strong> <strong>1 1/2" polystyrene between the studs.</strong> Right now it has the aluminized fibreglass batt insulation, which has been compressed between the exterior skin and the studs. Still and all, it's surprisingly effective and better than what's found on many other slide-in campers.<br /></span>
<br /><br />Someone told me an expanding spray foam called 'great stuff' really helps seal the styrofoam to the studs...<br /><br />Hope this helps. :3
 
Ok, incase anyone is interested, it been -20 to -25 all week here in Northern Alberta. With my mr buddy and a single 1500 watt ceramic my inside temps are 18-20 degrees or 68- 74 for my American bretheren.Im using 1 20lb bottle of propane per week using the buddy about 6 hours per day. Nice and toasty. A little chilly on the floor tho so i think i'll need to rethink this one for next winter.
 
&nbsp;Alberta is one place I wouldn't want to stay during the winter. Same goes for Saskatchewan and Manitoba.. or basically anything east of the Okanagan. It's&nbsp; around 5 deg C. ATM. and I's gonna get out my Bronzetan for tomorrow if this keeps up.&nbsp;
 
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